dajogejr

Yep....not worth it on a duner... I went through one piston this year by getting greedy and learning the curve. If you're lucky you only smoke a top end. Quite a few smoke a bore, waste a crank or rod bearing....all depends on your luck!

Damn Keil....I gotta admit, that's pretty damn funny...

Hey...no prob. I'm from MI...so I had no idea, had to look it up myself. That bike will run a TON better w/ 150PSI than 110, but I think there is a different problem...something isn't measuring up. A typical dune port might drop static compression a few PSI, maybe up to 10...not much more than that though....

No...something else is wrong. Mesa, AZ is 1200 feet... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mesa,_Arizona

I used a Porter Cable air stapler for crown molding, etc, found the shortest staples I could... You have to angle them into the foam, but it gets tricky near the front where the plastic and the foam get a LOT thinner, I did have to pull a few out. Turn the regulator down to about 30 to 50 PSI, and most air staplers have a depth adjustment for how far into the material it will shoot the staple... Heating it up before and during installation is a good idea. I bet 10 minutes in a dryer wouldn't hurt it a bit....

I've seen two cheapo Actron testers that were purchased at Murray's or Autozone and they were way off.... Craftsman makes a nice kit, and...if you got the loot, Snap On, MAC or Matco is the way to go. The Actron you linked doesn't look too bad, not like the cheapy's I've seen.... Load yourself up with Metric open end, box end wrenches. 6 and 12 point if you can afford them, metric sockets, short and deep.

What is your elevation.... With 18cc domes and no porting...fresh motor...it should be high 180s low 190s at or near sea level. Porting may drop that 10 PSI or so...but a dune port "Shouldn't" drop down your compression that much. A very aggressive drag port could lower it, but probably still not that much. Did you check squish? What kind of compression tester are you using? Dune port shouldn't lower it that much...... Do yourself a favor, call Dave Noss @ Noss machine. See if he can help you get the head sealed. Normally, it's a pinched Oring, or you need a dab of RTV on the nut/studs to get it to seal. I had problems getting mine to seal, but to be 100% honest I never called Dave to try and rectify it....give him a shot. Did you get a fresh bore, did you get new pistons, have you checked clearances, have you check ring end gap?

That link has pictures....

ORVs are off road vehicle permits. They're a sticker you place on the rear of your vehicle. they're a few bucks more for out of state residents. You can buy them at the gate for the parking lot for silver lake, or any hunt/fish store in MI. You can go to the fishing/hunting department at Meijers in MI and buy them there (so you don't hold the line up getting into the parking lot...LOL) I THINK you can buy them at Duneland and Appletree as well, they're performance shops LITERALLY right outside the dune parking lot....

Nope, need an ORV for your bike, as well as a Michigan Park pass . ORVs were 16.25 last year, good for a year, park pass is 6.00 a day or I think 15 or 18 yearly. Need a pass for your vehicle as well...and an ORV for your vehicle if you plan on taking it into the dunes....

The Village demands Pictures.

You don't polish the intake side because it will cause gas to bead up on the metal, rather than atomize into the cylinder. You only bore a cylinder if you had a no no (broke piston, etc.) or if it is outside of clearance specs. Porting is, as said, changing the shape and often size to get air and fuel in and out of the motor more efficiently.

Not to mention, if you're gonna drop a 4 mil crank in, in order to get the benefit of it you'll have to get the porting changed to match the new timing anywho... If you're gonna stick to bolt on stuff, here you go: Shaved head .020 or NOSS head with 20cc domes. Advance timing 4 degrees. Pod filters, Fatty, T5 or Trinity pipes, DMCs are nice too. 28mm PWK carbs. Until you get porting done, you'd be wasting your money/time after that point. However, a single 33PWK would me a nice mod for your bolt on bike. You'll lose a hair on top...more than likely, but...more bottom and mid...easier to tune, one carb to pull open...etc.

Yeah, got a mom like that.... When Pops kicks the bucket we should introduce them. I have to warn you though, your dad will gain easy 50 to 80 pounds within a few years.... Moms like to cook!!!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Man, getting deep in here....LOL.. He was nice as could be Shayne, came right down...I drove over to his car as he unloaded the parts to me... Not much chit chat at all, honestly...

Um...something far from "boring...:...LOL That's ok, I just picked me up some A arms, swingarm and a nice steering stem for free. People around here are so nice I tell ya...LOL. Shayne, got your goods, will meet up with Evan after work to get them to him... Your old man thought they were getting PC'd....I said nope, Chrome or go home!!!

With a closed air box and lid, put the stock pilots back in. It may or may not be fine on the mains but the pilots could be loading up your plugs.... Here's how to check your mains, you must follow this to a T for accurate results. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Go big or go home....LOL... I understand, it could turn out diamonds or dirt...you never know. If everything would've bolted up....it would've been WAY cheap, but...the pics weren't very confidence inspiring...fo sho. I was thinking about picking it up for a duner, but I really don't want to maintain two quads, so...I'll probably get a 450 next year!!

yeah, but I'm getting ready to go to work, and you're already there....LOL.

If money is no issue, call up Dennis Packard at Packard Ent. Get Lectrons... Once you understand how they work, they are the best carb I've ever used.... PWKs are a nice choice, don't get me wrong...but for a few bucks more Packard Lectrons are the shit! They are not as finicky for temp changes/altitude changes, they are easer to adjust, no more jets. Just a needle to twist to richen/lean the mixture and a power jet to add more fuel/less fuel mid to peak RPMs. Even on the ice, butt ass cold weather, my bike starts first kick on Methanol once it's been started for the day.... The only thing I had to adjust on mine was open the power jet more because we went from running 300 feet to over 600 feet, it was running out of fuel on the top end. The key to Lectrons is getting the right needle for it, also called a metering rod! Plan on spending 550 to 800 bucks for a set depending on if you want billet bowls, the size of the carb, etc. You'll also need Packard's throttle cable too, which is a rebuildable work of art!!!

You have to have sparkys...they are VERY strict about that. I was told that last year they didn't even have the sound check equipment at the booth.... Quite a few of us have drag bikes, open pipes, etc. We pretty much put our bikes in the truck, they look for sparkies and ORV, put the flag on when we get to the strip...we're good. One of our buddies took his sparkies off two years in a row, got a ticket both times....they don't play with them things.

What about Aretha Franklin, Eminem, Gerald Ford....c'mon now..... I'm in St. Clair shores....didn't realize this thread existed...

That's ok...I'm still looking at your signature....smiling....he he he...

I agree...they lost, sore fans...it ain't gonna change nothing....

Yep...ran it all year in 07, and just had it on the ice a few weekends ago. Once i got the compression/dome issue sorted, ripped pretty good all year. Definitely not a dune motor though...LOL.. As said, one builders drag port is another's dune port...just tell them what you want, go with a reputable name, you'll be fine. 10mm has some good pull on top end over a 4 mil...so, you won't be quite there... But, a well built 4 mil with a 1 into two carb will make a nice duner...