dajogejr

My bad..thought that was his real name, not real and screen.... Adam Miller is the one that went to jail for stalking someone....and ripped a bunch of guys off...

What is his member name on here?

If you're talking about the gear shifter itself that you move up/down with your foot, nothing. remove the footpeg, remove the bolt/set screw holding the shifter on...and put the new one on. If you actually broke something inside the motor...than no one can tell you that, it's tear down and inspection time.

Shit...he's the smart one Shayne... I figure you, JT and I will be going bigger next year, he'll have his pickings of a few 4 mils or a 10 mil...for cheap, proven to run....LOL... Why didn't we have it so easy....LOL.

Pics would help...sounds like a nice bike. You can't build one with all that for this cheap. PM Me if i can help you post pics up.... Good luck!!!

Just get your cylinders ported...for trails and MX it'll be more than enough.

Hey mon.... The guy is either in Greenville or Ionia...I fogot which. I've only been there twice, once to drop...once to pickup. My buddy that I went with to go there is away from his computer...so I'll try to find out and post back for you. Actually, his number is an OLD thread of mine...lemme see if I can dig it up. Here ya go homie... 616-754-2229

I've let probably 8 to 10 people ride my bike at the dunes and the drag strip... Granted, most of them are used to an override of some sort, regular or normal....I have no qualms about letting someone ride my bike...if they have the skills to handle the power of course. It's really not as temperamental like people say...most if it is passed on by 3rd and 4th hand accounts, without actual knowledge of the facts.... All JT and I do is drag race, and the guys we race with all say the same about the regular overrides...just don't be stupid... Now...if you get 6th gear cut for he override, all bets are off. If you do not literally come to a COMPLETE stop before thinking about attempting to downshift, you WILL shell your tranny....

Dan...consider them sold. Evan is working in the shop at work right now...not at a computer or his desk. He said he'll work a deal with you...I'll PM you his thoughts. Consider it sold, cash...or trade, whatever you two come up with.

Consider them sold, Dan. I'm sure Evan still wants them. How do you want to get paid?

As said, rim width and tire carcass style plays a part in that. They take the cheapest tires you can imagine, buff 'em and glue paddles on them.

It is also possible your head gasket is leaking and it is causing the bike to pressurize the cooling system... I got a bad oring in mine, I kick it 4 times...it pops the radiator cap and pisses a little coolant out the overflow. in 40 degree weather, even with a bad impeller...I can't see it overheating unless you're beating the tar out of it in that few minutes. If you're just idling/warming it up...I can't see it being a heat issue....

Do you still have the snorkel on the lid? remove it if so... Are the carbs sync'd properly? And what do your plugs look like? Are they new? Do you have fresh gas and oil in it?

Put your gearing at stock, 14/41 or 14/42. You're not gonna have a lot of top end with that gearing. Put 300 mains in...to start. Follow this to dial them in. 260 mains around here is too lean with no lid, we average 280 or 290...and probably up one to two sizes from there if they ride in the snow/ice/winter time... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Don't get too caught up on that 1.5 number. Is your motor ported? because in my opinion, without porting....reeds don't really improve too much. Once you start moving more air/fuel...they really shine. Magic is in Michigan, SRP is carried by Magic (I haven't seen anyone else carry their products) I can promise you this, they've been around for years...and if the reeds were that good, everyone here would at least have them. But we all use Vforce..... Like fouled out says....I'm sure they're better than stock. But if you want the best and the standard, stick with V Force.

You are wasting you money on straight cuts for a 4 mil motor....unless you came up with a STEAL on a used set of gears. You don't need them. And it will depend on your porting, pipes, intakes, carb size, compression, timing advance, gearing, tire size....etc.... You won't need a lockout for that motor either. Unless you plan on drag racing 90% of the time, don't get a lockout. And if you get a lockout, get a dunable override.... Once you start pushing good power (75HP plus) you need shifting help....stock trannys don't handle it well....

Depends on what you're doing... I run an aluminium rear...a few hundred passes on the drag strip, 110 to 115 HP cub motor...it still looks great. What kind of riding do you plan on doing? If you're going to run mud/trails, etc. Get steel... If you're gonna drag race and ride the dunes, get aluminum...they work just fine. Steel is heavier but cheaper.... Keep in mind, with a crappy, mis adjusted or worn our chain, ANY sprockets won't last long....

If you have 21 inch tires and rev out to 10K...sure, 90 is possible. It's just not possible with the gearing Q is riding with....

It's a gamble... As long as your trans is in good shape, you can normally sell a full tranny and drum on ebay for about 100 to 130 bucks. Most shops charge about 100 for the core. I had quite a few people buy one without sending a core in because they didn't want a week or so of down time...

250Rs are MUCH different, and NO ONE that I know of is making dunables for them any more...just not enough clearances.... And...normal overrides can cause issues if you backload them excessively....but even standard cut overrides in the right hands can be backloaded by mistake...just not too many times.

Whitaker cuts the drums, my buddy cuts the gears/dogs and cuts/welds the shift star. He's very good friends with Brad Tyson, and has worked with him and a local shop by us called Dynoedge a few years ago... The majority of the work is cutting and welding the drums. They are also the hardest... Cutting the gears isn't as bad.... The only Con is no 6th gear. That's it. Yes you can let off the gas and pull the clutch...don't think if you accidentally let off the gas and DON'T Immediately pull in the clutch it's gonna break on you. However...as said, it is not a great idea to rev out to 8K or more then let off the gas and coast to a stop. It will NOT break the tranny or "tear it up"....it will wear the forks out prematurely... I recommend the 1-5 for a simple point of this...if you run distances longer than 300 foot, you can change your gearing and start in 1st. Ask JT. We ran 660 feet on the ice....and with his being a 2-5 it's a little harder to get gearing right...he still has 1st gear, but he has to clutch it from 1st to second. Most of you know how crappy they shift under full power with a clutch.. Hope this helps....let me know if you have any more questions.

So Hex....based on your theory...you just listen to what other people say, even if it is a very respected Rudy Kurtz.....and that's it? There are TONZ of people on this site that have them and they work just fine. Myself included. I'm sure anyone that cut them had problems with them at some time. Dave Moore even stopped cutting them because he had problems. But I will take my WCR Dunable override any day of the week...and there are a TON out there that are working just fine... I try to make choices based on overall recommendations, that include people that actually have them and use them...not just what one man says. No disrespect to Rudy...but maybe someone else can do something better if his weren't holding up...

He read it right. 66.5 is the biggest you can go on STOCK cylinders, if this guy is running 68mm big bore, he is getting the cylinders resleeved. And he's right...on stock cylinders, that really cramps the transfers..... He's not just boring, it's new (bigger) sleeves as well!

Wanting more mid-to low end grunt is NOT going to be accomplished by CPI or T5. get FMF or Pro Circuits if that's what you're looking for. With all that porting, a low end pipe and a 1 into 2 carb, that's choking your motor.... But if you trail and MX, you don't need to rev to the moon...