dajogejr

It does need longer studs, but...he is including them, they are in the picture on the right side.

Tommy... Check out craiglist in your area and surrounding areas. You can find some real diamond in the rough... PM NYUK...he finds more diamonds than anything. He's in Jersey...but man does he find some deals.

beat me to it.

I offered 10.01 for it...if you would've said yes..I would've sent the money....just trying to get a deal.... I am a prick and an asshole, at least I'm not ignorant...good luck!!!

Yep...they should. You probably have the lubricant you need, WD40, liquid wrench....any of those work fine. They sell tap oil, but to be 100% honest, the aluminum on the carbs is so soft, WD will be fine. MAKE SURE you grind the bosses flat first, then drill and tap them. The locknut will have to lay flat, and the boss is at an angle from the factory. Take about 1/8 inch off...you'll be fine.

Nope...you've whined enough already...thanks!! Caps just kinda compliment the whining. You said best offer. I said 10.01 shipped. That was my best offer. Just because you can build a 15K drag bike, doesn't mean you'll get 6 or 7 out of it. Why don't you just make it easy on yourself going forward...all you have to do is list a price. JUST LIKE YOU DO ON PS....instead of say make offer. Then I won't have to be an asshole, come piss all over your thread, tell you what a dipshit you are (again...)... Go post it on PS and see how fast Partslist puts on there the Planet Sand rules about stating a price.... Fine, I shouldn't have been a smart ass. You shouldn't be ignorant in your for sale ads, as well... Especially since you've been down this road before, obviously one you still remember... There you go, we're both assholes. And good luck selling your shit on here...AGAIN.

I guess we better up the ante, huh Ellison?? Yes...if you have a set price, it puts you on the same page as someone looking to buy it. Why let them think 20 if you're wanting 40...etc. You know as well as I do...PS asks you to set a price as well...we're no different!! Thank you!!!

It's a good idea for safety to have slack in the cable, just a bit...and use the proper idle screws supplied with the kit. Hate for you to be in a turn at wide open throttle and have it stick on you... Use the kit.

Pull the side cover off, see if the plastic sleeve/bushing between the cases and the gear broke off...if it did, the gear got wedged and you might be lucky.... Al least pull the side cover off to check for damage control.

There are two types of override trannys. Dunable and regular. First, the regular. You still use the clutch to launch the bike, it allows for clutchless upshifts at FULL THROTTLE after it's launched. When you're at the end of the run, you must pull in the clutch, then let off the gas. You might be able to get away with not pulling the clutch first a few times, but...eventually...you will wear and break or bend the shift forks. And...most of them require you to slow down quite a bit...almost to a complete stop before you down shift. Dunable. Same on the launch, you need the clutch. Then, full throttle upshifts. The main difference is you can let off the gas and not pull in the clutch..but if your motor is revving out past 8K RPM, you shouldn't do this too many times. It will not bend or break the shift forks, but it will wear them out sooner. With a dunable, you can pull in the clutch, downshift...etc. You can ride it like a normal trans, with the exception of the previous statement. Letting off the gas and keeping the clutch out (engaged) is also called backloading the trans. In other words, the engine is slowing the bike down, not the brakes. Another person put it to me this way. You want the engine to always push the bike....if the engine is not pushing the bike, pull the clutch if you have a regular override or if you're going to be at peak RPMs on a dunable. NOT ALL dunables are created equal...a lot of guys have had issues with them. WCR probably makes the best and most reliable dunables... A LOT of folks do a good normal override. Including WCR, Rudy Kurtz, K&T, Redline...just to name a few.

Going from 35ish stock to 65 will be like somebody smacked you in the face, twice. It'll get your attention to say the very least. What kind of pipes, and who did the grinding on your cylinders?

Well...one of two things. Set a price, or...put it on ebay. You're opening yourself up to this when you say make offer...sorry... I'm not trying to be a smart ass, but your reasonable price will differ from mine, that's why I suggest putting a price that you want or expect to get out of them...otherwise...well, you know. We know what they cost...but you said make an offer. We did.... You didn't say "reasonable offer OVER 40.00...", or something like that.... Seems like you have a little bit of a habit of this stuff, make offer...or no listing a price. I think Ellison may very well remember that, too....this isn't ebay.

You're right on the Cheetahs, they use CR125 dirt bike reeds/cages. However, this is the Cheetah CUB, cub motors use the same size intakes as stock cylinders. One of the reasons Calvin made the cubs is the same head, exhaust flange and intakes as a stock cylinder.... I will PM you my address... To be 100% honest with you, flotek would be a good choice for these cages. He only has 40 posts under that name, but he used to use the screen name rocketboy...PLENTY of posts. I know he a very strong running 358 cub, I've done plenty of business with you...and he ports engines himself with plenty of satisfied customers. Obviously up to you, but in this one case...I think flotek is a good choice for a smaller motor. Thanks Jerry....

10.01 shipped....take that ellison.

Put two teeth on the rear. Smaller in front is harder on the engine and it will wear your chain quicker too.

Old sheaerer production chrome (nickel based) was hit and missed. Since then....Matt has changed chromers and no longer offers production chrome. It's show chrome or bare metal, and the show chrome is very good quality.

I think, and don't get me wrong....I may be off, but Yakkey makes a modded shift DRUM that aids in shifting. Is that what you're thinking about possibly...? If your buddy does a LOT more playing than racing...that is a pretty good mod. I am trying like hell to find it...but can't for some reason. It's a modded drum with I think a bearing on the end, it's supposed to work pretty well.

Lots of possible scenarios... I had no lockup or overide in my 4 mil cub on gas, same thing. 35PWks, inframe Shearers. I used Jeff's clutch and 6 HD springs. It held...but shifting under WOT sucked... Keep in mind, if you get a 1-4 Dunable and manual clutch 5 and 6th, can you remember each time to pull that clutch to get 5 and 6th? If I remember, you run pavement drags. What kind of riding do you intend on doing...aside from pavement drag racing?? I love my 1-5 dunable. It gives me the option to start in first and change my gearing for longer tracks....or start in second and shorten my gearing for 300ft, where...I mainly drag race. So what...I have to click up twice before I drag 300.... An override and lockup should go hand in hand...IMO.

Flotek also had a user name rocketboy with a LOT more posts, but Denny chose to use Flotek. I don't know if Lee was unable to reset a password, or if he chose to use Flotek for advertisment/brand purposes....but rocketboy would definitely meet post requirements as well.

I have access to a dyno, live in MI...and I think I qualify on post count. However, I ride a 10 mil cub on alky... If you think these reeds will not work on my setup, please say so... I have access to gas carbs, I own two sets of pipes for my bike, the most popular (Shearer and CPI) and can get my hands on Grand River pipes to test as well... As a bonus, I already have your head on my bike...as well as I purchaed an SRP throttle from Magic two years ago. I have nothing but good things to say about the quality of both. I ride with all the local MI drag race guys, do you know if any of them happen to use these cages? I would love to take you up on your offer...but if my motor/setup is not to your liking, I understand as well. I am in tear down mode for freshening up, chrome work, etc. so, it'll be a month or two before I could test them.

Jeff...I saw your bar on JT's bike. Looks like I need to sell another body part...it looked NICE!!! How much time and what measurements do you need from me? I'm thinking lower shock mount, or back of the gab bar... I just want something I can remove with pins when not needed or hauling it. It looked very nice!!!

Thanks Sinister, I wasn't sure. If you're going to casually ride trails...and want something CUSHY...the raptor is it. However, for agressive trails, etc. They are top heavy...fo sho. Motor is easy to ride, the 450s liked to be rev'd a little more like a two stroke, especially the YFZ. I understand the anti-Honda remarks...but, the 06 and newer 450Rs are very nice rides to be 100% honest. I still think the 400EX is the best all around machine. It's not the fastest, it's not the best handling, it really doesn't do any one thing the best, but I think it does everything pretty good for the price. Since the 450s came out, 400EX prices dropped like a rock!! And those motors are about as bulletproof as it can get. If you have more need for speed...I understand. But I had a 400EX last year...my 10 mil went boom both times at the dunes early...and I had a blast riding a piped and jetted 400 EX around the dunes. Kinda wish I wouldn't have sold it...but, oh well... The 400Z from Suzuki is no joke...they run well. I don't know if they have any apparent problems...but they're good bikes. I know the first LT450s had frame problems by the rear suspension...or swingarm...

I know the old raptor 660's had a problem as well, but to be 100% honest, I can't think of it. I want to say it was a trans or crank problem...but I'm hoping someone can tell us... I know Shayne (fouledout420) worked at a yamie dealer, maybe he can tell us....

PM NYUK or Minkia38. They are the sanford and son of the HQ....more crap than a septic tank....LOL.

In your case..then, I'd recommend steel and a good X or O ring chain as well... Good luck!! Call Jeff @ FAST. He carries bulk chain by the foot and I"m sure he can get you a great deal on what you need.