dajogejr

Well...there goes my idea for Mark. What a Flaming asshole (close in family to the firehead) ...lol.

Thanks...just getting ready to type all that up... I would bet with proper measurement, honing the cylinders and checking the clearances it'll run even better (I know, slides fixed it..) but if it's rerung, they need to be hones as said...

You're correct. Dave Noss said you don't need to use those Orings if you don't want to, just make sure to use his copper washers and acorn nuts, use a dab of RTV in each acorn nut.

There's a whole bigger heat range than that...low as 6 and high as 11 or so that I know of. If you're running a 100% stock ignition, BR or B plugs are fine. When you start to get into aftermarket coils, aftermarket CDIs they may have a preference on Resistor or not.

Have fun explaining that one to work... Get well soon.

Don't use yamabond unless you don't plan on taking it off again, without a hammer... I have a two piece, billet plate cover. I use RTV just to keep the dust/dirt out of the ignition. You'll be fine.

And I'm of the opinion if you baby it too much, the rings take longer to seat and seal...making less power... I've broken all my motors in my way, I've blown one up due to the 5th or 6th pass and I leaned it out too much on alky... The motor was half season by then, not a break in issue.... Just like the best pipes, the best builder, etc., everyone is going to tell you what they do and works for them....

260 is probably about right, if not rich...since you're running a full air box. The color doesn't mean anything...it could be rich on the pilot, needle or main...or any where in between the circuits.

Warm it up, blip the throttle here and there, let it cool down. Do it again. Once cool, check the torque. take it for a ride, not too little RPM, not too much, try not to stay at a constant RPM. Cool...torque...got beat the shit out of it... 10 hours before hard riding...yeah, right.... If you have a nikasil based cylinder (coated) Warm it up and go beat on it. The key is proper warm up....

Did you actually measure the cylinder and pistons? Did you set the ring end gap? Did you hone the cylinders? Did it run fine before the re-ring?

Yamaha Part Number 132-18113-01-00. They're 2.33 from Riva Yamaha online. I'd rather order from a local dealer and save the shipping. http://216.37.204.203/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaATV...p;A=229&B=9

Dealer.

No thanks... I get stuff chromed once a year....twice at the very most. I can buy 5 shifters for 20 bucks... Thanks anyways.

seriously...I'll pay to have Firehead's grille done if he promises to run what I have you cut, JD... LOL...

Tell ya what...give me a few hundred for the shifter, I'll throw in some real nice chrome control arms, stem and swingarm for free...

Won't hurt a thing. You just bought more expensive plugs... If they sent them to you by accident instead of the ES, good for you. No worries...run 'em.

Wow...nobody wants chrome stockers?

Day is bad...office job. Tonight is fine. I brought the wrong steering stem home last night...so other than kicking my tires a few times, I didn't get squat done on the bike. I gotta get it buttoned up tonight...fired by this weekend and to my buddy's house by Saturday....

I'm just teasin....any time. An OLD friend who I only get to see once in a great while stopped by last night, I fixed his computer and we started on the Bud Light. We had a ton of stories to share and a lot of catching up to do...so, sorry if I was a little short with you....

ASK WHOMEVER is building your motor... There is a HUGE debate on which pipe is best for which application. It used to be 4mil or smaller, small bore, larger than 4...big bore. That's not the case. Some stock stroke and 4 mils run very well with big bore, some 10 mils run great with small bore. So...go on the advice of your builder. No mods necessary, you'll just have to figure out how to hang the pipes from your footpeg(s). I use a stock front pipe hanger, and you want a rubber mount, NOT solid. They need to flex.

What...do ya think I was bullshitting you on the phone last night??? LOL.... I don't blame you, second opinion is always good. Stock carbs: 25 is stock. 27.5 30 32.5 According to sudco, they go from 15-35 in increments of 2.5. From 35 to 65 in increments of 5. So...I was wrong...they do go bigger than 32.5...but in all my years of tuning stock carbs I've never had to go bigger than 30... The 45 and 50 he sent you are too big, period. Unless he has a port job no one has ever seen before, is dyno tuned and proven...he's off. He has a Dyno at Lakes... Put the 45 pilots in, let him dyno tune it with an air/fuel meter....with a stock airbox and lid with holes cut in both...there is NO WAY you need that big of pilots. Main Jets Stock is 200 or 210 depending on your dealer locale, etc. 200 210 220 230 240 and so on...I think they go into the 400's, by 10 incrementally. As said, with your setup...300 or so to start, but again because of the airbox I think that's gonna be fat.

Sorry to hear as well. I had a buddy ride my bike on the ice, my chisel tires ran up the back of his leg....he was ok luckily. I'm always a little nervous about letting others ride my bike...but, as I'm sure a bunch of people are going to tell you...you didn't do anything wrong. Anyone that rides knows the risks they take. Hope your friend gets better...I wish I had some parts to help ya out....

Just as the title says, got a lot back from the chromer yesterday. 4 are pictured, 3 are spoken for...just wanted to show the lot of them. 40 shipped with fed ex tracking. I will ship same or next business day via fed ex with confirmed payment. Please feel free to check my feedback...

Since Jeff did your motor, I'd ask HIM what to do as far as compression, timing and fuel. More octane won't "Muck" things up...but it is wasted money and perhaps a little wasted performance... You need to find your cranking compression AND compression ratio and go from there. Instead of just putting more compression in it...maybe Jeff's port on this particular motor, or pipe/carb combo doesn't like all that compression or a ton of timing....it's his design, I wouldn't let others just guess what to do with it. You said +4 and the Dyna, does that mean you have a timing plate AND a dyna? You realize that a Dyna advanced the curve 4 degrees over stock on any of the 4 switch settings? Simply put, anytime you take a motor designed to put out 35 HP and double/triple that....things in general won't last as long. That being said, adding compression and timing, if kept in tune right...will last quite a while.