dajogejr

Shayne is one of my Michigan Drag Race homies...great guy. The kind of guy that goes out of his way to help out...even if that means brining a spare helmet because someone was too stupid to remember that one critical thing...lol. :whistling: :yelrotflmao:

And...in addition to the 795 pistons and cut dome or heads, get the porting on the cylinder matched as well...

pm flotek, I think Denny will do one for you...but not 100% sure.

Plug gap? Coil caps replaced? Air Gap for flywheel/pickup set right?

You can't drill and tap or repair the threads on the tie rods?

Correct. The 4 mil stroker is 2mm offset from stock on the web. So, 2mm more on the bottom and 2mm more on the top of the stroke....4mm total. The long rod is used to lessen the angle of the rod to piston. The rod wants to shove the piston through the front of the cylinder, by using a longer rod AND offset piston with an altered pin height, there is less stress on the overall rotating assembly. I wouldn't get big bore sleeves for a stock cylinder. Once you get bigger sleeves, your transfer ports become much smaller, and most of your power comes from your transfers.... I think a properly ported set of stockers is damn near if not just as good as a big bore on stock cylinders.

Prolites all the way, but if you could score a deal on forged WSM, I'd have no reservations about using them either.

I sure as hell wouldn't want to run a spacer on top...that's a good way to snag a ring.

Check out Grainger...they make nice isolators. Also...a log of cold air intake kits have isolators in them when they remove the airbox. Just a thought.

Luck of the draw...my man. The pipes will come with everything except pipe springs and a mount for the peg. On mine, I use a stock front pipe hanger to mount them. In my opinion, it is CRITICAL they are not solid mounted, they need to have rubber/bushings to flex or give. Normally the mount bracket on the lower pipe will not line up properly with the peg, you'll have to get creative. I also bought small isolaters to mount the pipes to each other to make things easier (think of a rubber block with a stud out each side) I will send you a pic of mine later today if I can remember, I have to put mine back on tonight....

That's pretty darned smart of ya there. I read the first line and was like OH NO...till I read the next. LOL. To be honest...your jetting seems kinda rich or close to being on for sea level. A GENERAL rule of thumb is one main jet size for every 1000 to 1500 feet increase or decrease in elevation. We run CEL needles on bikes round here with similar setup, I'd be surprised if it were too rich for 1500 ft. riding. I'd bring 1 and 2 size smaller pilots, 1-4 size smaller mains....compromise and meet the jets in the middle to start out.

As a backup, Greg... Go to trendmicro.com and panda online scan to backup your installed AV. Good practice. Here's Trend Micro: click on housecall http://www.trendsecure.com/portal/en-US/ Panda Online scan http://www.pandasecurity.com/homeusers/solutions/activescan/

That is how ONE builders 4 mil port looks (and Patriot is a great builder, no doubt...) but you can not go by how a port "looks" to tell how it's going to run. The size and shape of the holes is where the money is. It's called port timing, how and when each opens in relation to piston travel, on top of their shape and size.... You could have a "pretty looking" set of cylinders go dog slow, and a Stevie Wonder set run like a raped ape.... Not aimed towards you...Jbook, but a lot of people post pics of the intakes ground up on the net and say how does my port job look? It does NOT matter how it looks, it matters how it runs....period.

Yep...and AVG. Antivirus is worth paying for... I've seen AVG and Avast fail where Kaspersky, NOD32 and BitDefender pick stuff up....

If your bike is in proper tune, it's you...not the bike. Learn to slip the clutch not dump it.

You said you switched carbs, too...didn't you? Possible you're not feeding it enough fuel?? My Shearers rev out NO problem... I probably have the same identical pipes. BB, Small flange....

Very nice... Those pipes sure do look purdy you got on there now. How you liking them? Sorry I couldn't help you on 'em...

If I had my choice of bike other than a banshee, it would be two bikes. A HUGE stout 4X4 with everything on it but a sink, and then either a YFZ or Raptor 700.

That's two bad sales for you in a few weeks time, both people report the same thing. Sent payment...but never received parts. Starting to sound familiar... Just because you're willing to post your name, address and phone number on the site doesn't make you an honest person to do business with... We're a tight family here...consider yourself warned.

Kevin, I want 250 HP and 150 Ft Lbs out of torque out of my 10 mil cub, on pump gas...and still be able to trail ride it. Whatcha think??? J/K.... Sent you an email earlier today....hope all is well with you.... I need to come out to Glamis for a test and tune with the bikes...that's like a dream come true...

You need to read the plugs by placing the most load on the engine. 6th is ideal...but, WOT to 5th will be fine. Just make sure you warm it up on old plugs, swap them once warm, go WOT, shut it off, then put the old plugs back in to get to camp.

Nice. You bet I'll put that on my flash drive for removal/clean tools. Thank you!!!

I've tried a few flavors of Linux in the past. I just don't have the time to get a lot of hands on with them. And...I can't replace the last 10 to 12 years of Windows and networking from my real world experience and put that into Linux...

That is an invaluable guide for sure. Also...a plug chop to check mains is critical...

He said with the basket on, not the side cover... Yes...the eccentric is behind the basket, lower left if you're looking at it. You want the fingers to be evenly spaced between the adjustment screw, if that makes sense. I don't know how to properly explain it any better...sorry.