dajogejr

I think the 6th and 7th pictures down are Travis M's bike (bigboybanshee) Anyone that has raced with Travis and seen the bike in person back that up?? http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...8420#Post858420

A NEW motor at or near sea level will be 125ish. A compression tester will not test for a bad crank seal. Other than an actual good tester, no....no way to check compression.

Motor doesn't need nearly as much fuel to start warm as cold, especially at idle/low throttle RPMs. Just a little fuel from the choke can drown it. Did you take the carbs apart? Is the choke tube in place, did you accidentally swap bowls? Wait...are these stock or aftermarket carbs...? When cold, remove both plugs...drizzle a few drips of gas into the cylinders, see if it fires up cold. If it does...it's a pilot/airscrew and/or choke problem.

First...go to 300 on the main. Put 27.5 pilots in, you don't need 30 pilots. And get rid of that ignition box, put a stocker back on. Unless it's a Dyna or MSD...aftermarket rev boxes are JUNK...

Sounds like the top end is worn... You said you just finished, but what did you do? Check the compression...

Much bigger than a stock .040 over motor, and he said .25 HP. Sounds like you're stuck on buying them...go ahead.

Not nearly as much as you can get out of stockers, comparatively. A good builder can get 5 to 15% or so more power out of them. You can EASILY double...and rarely triple the stock output of stock cylinders. They have drag port timings, but can be coaxed some more.... Yes. They are the only makers of the cubs, cheetahs, and quite a few other line of cylinders, both banshee and non-banshee specific. However, there are a LOT of other companies that make banshee based cylinders setups. Twister, TRex, ESR...just to name a few. The Cub and Cheetahs have similar timings in common, that's it. Different bores, different head, different intakes....

Same here, 10, 15, 22...in order.

Always good to hear that...I think it was David Noss that called you, not Darren...LOL. Dave is a class act guy.

Yep...sounds about right. If the right side crank seal is blown, it can pressurize the tranny fluid making it blow out a vent line. If you do the work yourself, and if it doesn't need anything else...probably 50 -75 bucks in parts and fluids. Top end gaskets, side gasket, crank seals (might was replace both crank seals if you're gonna do it)... If you're going to pay someone, like a dealer, probably 300 to 600 bucks. Again, depending on if the top end is ok, within spec, crank and bearings on it check out. Could be easy, could be a can of worms. but I'd say his description is pretty accurate.

Unless you're eyes are good enough to spot .002 to .005 gaps...LOL... get a surface plate. Or any other flat, steel object. get a wet/dry sandpaper piece, 400 to 600 grit. Move the head (take the back elbow off) in a figure 8 motion over the paper on the block for 10 to 20 seconds. Wipe off the gasket surface, check it. If you can see fresh scratches/sanding over ALL of the gasket surface, you're done. Otherwise, repeat.

True...but these are 34PJs.... There are plenty of people that run SB pipes on these motors.... For all out drag, I'm thinking BB would be a better choice...but if it's all out drag, he should have the power valved blocked off like the rest of the Cheetah guys do....

Check compression first off. Then check the carb jetting, make sure the floats are set right...and that the needle and seat aren't overflowing or stuck. When you say left side, you mean the side with the gear shifter, right? If the crank seal on the clutch side goes, it can suck tranny fluid and foul plugs. But the left side is just the ignition, crank seal goes on that side it'll lean out and smoke a piston, not foul plugs. And your pilots are too big.

Yes... .25 HP.... I think I could take a shit and get that much from weight reduction....

I've always maintained my stance on this. When you cut loops off, all you're doing is changing the leverage of the spring. So...it's easy at first, then it's just as hard to push as it was. but...since the initial resistance is less, it actually feels stiffer because it's not as linear. If you want the springs to be easier, sand a little material off the outside edge all the way around the spring. Think about it this way... Take a piece of metal. Try an bend it. Then grind some off. Try bending it again. Less material, easier give, etc. Springs are no different. Or...you could not be such a cheap ass and just buy the damn springs. Probably paid 100 to 300 for set of carbs, but 5 bucks plus shipping is too much? C'mon....

Main isn't your problem, or not the majority of it...your pilots are HUGE... Take them down to a 52 or 50.... With 62 pilots, it's probably getting loaded up before you even wick the throttle....

I shouldn't leak without starting the motor... Have the head and the tops of the cylinders checked for flatness.

First off he put a boost bottle on it, second he put FMF pipes and milled the head and gave you a dyno sheet with 52HP. Find a new dealer....

OK...just reread that. You should have a little slack... Also...when you tightened the carb caps...did you tighten them down tight, or just hand snug them? Those carb caps are very sensitive. Loosen them back up, hand snug them down, then use the L shaped hold down bracket to keep them from coming loose. High idle is usually caused by throttle malfunction or improper cable/routing, or...being lean...or having an air leak. Huge pilots if anything will richen it way up and make it boggy, like you pulled the choke on.

When I remove the TORS and drill/tap for the idle screws, I always hold them up, SLOWLY turn the idle screw in until it makes contact. Then I turn it in exactly 1.5 turns in. That's normally pretty damn close. I use the Sync Tool from FAST racing to tune idle from there. But that will get you close. Don't rule out the possibility of an air leak...

87-94 is what you need, hit this guy up...he's a member here by the name of Minkia38. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91883

There are three styles of plugs fellas. 87 to 94 95-96 (Which, I have...the bastard years...lol) and 97 to current.

Sounds like this is gonna be a project, not just a band aid and run it type. Wiseco are fine. Jeff @ FAST (Site sponsor) or RJ ATV can hook you up with Wiseco top end kits and gaskets as needed. Machine shop is gonna have to check clearances...if it's that old, that low of compression, and stock bore, I'd just get a .010 or .020 kit and hand the new pistons to the machine shop.... Either one of those guys mentioned will have swingarm bearings. I know Jeff @ FAST does...I got some swingarm bearings off him in the past.

Unless he's sold it since the last time I was over his house a month or so ago...yes, he does. (Evan's boy never got back to him on the blue plastic Ray, F him...lol)

Dave Noss is a great guy and a site sponsor...start with him. I haven't seen any concrete evidence that any aftermarket head will help keep an engine run cooler once it is up to operating temps. They do offer Orings to seal, which is good and bad. Orings are relatively cheap and can be reused if they're in good shape, however....a stock flat head gasket is it, less leak points. The real bonus of any aftermarket head, in my opinion, it the ability to get custom cut domes for your particular motor's needs. Does an average trail rider, such as yourself, need that? IMO, no. Shave .015 more off your head and call it a day. Check squish...as well. Check compression before and after...so you know just how much it's been bumped up. Asking for spec on dome shape, step, squish band depth, etc., is like asking a builder how to port a motor. There are certain things they will tell you, certain specs they don't because it's their "set way" of how they make their motors work....