dajogejr

You start a post to take a picture of your Johnson, I'll win for sure....I just gotta find my super wide angle lens somewhere.....

And they make a remedy for that as well....billet 2nd gear. 2nd is the weakest link in the tranny. That being said, I'm easily up over 100HP and my stock tranny gears work fine, but they are cut to shift under full power without the clutch...like most drag race guys. Splitting the cases on a banshee is bar none the easiest to do compared to any other 2 or 4 stroke I've worked on...

Holy Shit you're still alive.... Sorry to hear about your loss man...bunch of dickweeds. I'd bet the bearing kit fit 87 and newer.... Do you still need a kit? PM me if so, I can probably find you one.

3 of them. Take your pick... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...312375&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...313032&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...313243&rd=1

Stator more than likely... Do you have stock end caps on the coil leads. They are known to go bad and you can replace those with quality NGK plug caps for about 10 bucks or so shipped.

With a billet impeller and over sized radiator...I'm not sure what else you can do or should need to do if everything else is in good working order.

180 or so farenheight. I would check the water pump drive gear...even though the impeller is aluminum, the drive gear is still plastic. If that's toast...you're toast. That would make the engine overheat, lose an oring, etc. I would have the deck surface of the cylinders and the head checked for flatness at that temp....Be a shame to put it all back together and have it leak again because of warpage.

Very few people order the cubs or other CP cylinders with bare aluminium castings to put a cast iron sleeve in. Some do...but most are nikasiled. There are pros and cons to each choice....

I agree!! The exotic port jobs (transfer holes and triple exhaust) and port size/timings done on stockers in the past are what drives the aftermarket cylinders to leave the shelf with....that's why they're so good. Years spent refining the stockers, then come out of the mold that good....

How so? I'm not saying you can use all stock components on a set of OEM cylinders and go from 35 to 90. You'd have to get pipes, carbs, intake, timing, methanol, compression and some REAL good porting.... But I don't think anyone running a cheetah is running stock carbs and pipes on it either....

Here's the problem with looking at plugs with a couple hours of run time. one jetting section could be lean, another rich....and whichever part you run in is where it's gonna color the plugs. The mains could be severly lean, but if you are putting about, never really getting to WOT...and the needle is rich, you'll get a false reading. Tune the mains first...then needle is my advice. The needles could be perfect and/or the mains could be spot on but one or the other is not...

If you're still impressed with the power, don't port it yet. Ride it. Those are some of the top names in the field, there are plenty others as well. What it boils down to is this, don't go for the cheapest price. Go for whomever answers the phone or calls you back quickly, who takes the time to not only answer your questions BUT asks questions too, like your riding style, locale, etc. And see what the lead time is. If a builder tells you a month, double that. They're busy, and just about every builder is the same way. 99% of the time it will not get done in the time frame they say it will. Just never happens. You'll get on average 5 to 10 more HP out of a port, but it will probably narrow the effective RPM range a bit. Ride it as is, the porting on these aftermarket cylinders isn't even close to how dramatic increase can be had with stockers. The port layout is that good as casted from the factory. Going from 35HP bone stock to 90 plus HP on stockers is not uncommon. You will NEVER see that kind of gain by porting an aftermarket cylinder... I'd say 5 to 15% at best is what you're gonna see.

Either work fine. Stock or Toomey or Vitos. Toomey and Vitos claim they are richer in the midrange where they need to be if you have Pod filters. I was able to dyno tune my 4 mil cub on stock carbs and T5 pipes with an A/F Meter and the needle was just fine.... Stuart Toomey may make very nice pipes. No doubt there. But he's about as helpful as a wet dishrag after that. I asked him what the difference was between his dynojet needles and stockers were, and his straight up answer was "Dynojet cuts them to our spec for our pipes" He couldn't/wouldn't tell me any more than that. I asked him how well his T5 pipes would work with a cub cylinder, his reply was he didn't know what a cub cylinder was.... I know he's been in the biz a long time, longer than most of us have been riding....I just wasn't impressed with his how broad his knowledge base was for a man that's been in this sport so long.

Need more info on the air box. No snorkel, got it. Does this mean you still have the lid? Any holes in the air box or lid (vents) What temps do you ride in? If you have a lid with no vents, 250 to 260 should be about right on the main, stock pilots should work fine.

You're fat if you only did one run on those plugs and they came out with that color. That's the only true way to check mains. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html A properly jetted bike will take a little time to put that much color on the plugs...

You welded the ball bearing to the pushrod. You may get lucky and not have to split the cases, but...worst case, you'll have to split them to get 'em out. It happens...no biggie. The exact reason a pancake bearing was made.

Oversized ash tray guys...LOL...

Ok...I should add...like anything else. Some are made better than others. these are 50 to 65 each, made by Sprocket Specialist...who, will make a sprocket for anything you want. Need a 90 tooth sprocket for a sled motor quad...got it. This is my 44 tooth that I took off and went with a 45 tooth... This sprocket probably has 200 to 300 passes on it, easy...I cleaned the grease off it, but that's it.

Yep...sure did. You have a Yamaha rear sprocket hub, I have a Honda. I'd run steel if it's available... However, My point was don't blame the aluminum in this instance if he was running it. People give it a bad name..I'll post up a pic of my rear 44 tooth with a few hundred passes on it. It still looks new.

If it were one sprocket, I'd blame it. Do you have the factory garbage Yamaha swingarm/carrier assembly? It's out of alignment, either way. And you keep trashing rear sprockets, that hundred dollar chain won't be worth a dollar. Check the alignment, check the rear carrier bearings, and are you over tightening it by chance? I run aluminum sprocket specialist on the rear of my 10 mil drag bike. The 44 tooth I used all last year shows no wear, don't let people tell you aluminum sprockets are garbage, they're not.

Get rid of the coolant bottle bracket, drain your radiator down the frame and to the ground. You don't need the resevoir. If you are hell bent on keeping the resevoir, mount it in the front of the bike between the frame rails. sell the carb you have, buy a matched pair...instead of taking a chance on one. 35PWKs are very common carbs, they are a stepping stone to full out drag racing, etc.

If you're not running a fuel pump, you don't have pumper carbs...

Shovel...you use the snomo pumper carbs that Dan always uses?

I bet I call him and tell him 2 Ricky Stator's shit the bed in two years, he'll say...yep, I hear that all the time, everyday. I'll ask him about a BHQ discount....

I'm going to give this guy a call. I'm going to see if he can make me a stator that has NO lighting coils, etc. on it. ALl I need it for is ignition, I'll never have lights on my bike. See what he says....maybe I can get him to be a site sponsor on a few websites.....