dajogejr

Spray some WD40 into the threads at the cylinder, let it soak for a little. Take two head nuts, thread them on the stud and lock them against each other....use the bottom nut and a BIG F'ING Wrench and twist them out.

Brand Preference?? Silenced or stingers? Chrome or raw?

No more tofu burgers for you this late... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Guys.. I don't want it to sound like I'm putting down Kevin's work. he knows that...but you all should too. That's just a BIG jump in MPH....certainly more power can attain part of that, but gearing and "usable" RPM as stated play a part too...that's all!! Here's the bottom line....you're happy with it. The best part is now you're spanking a 4 stroke that used to give you problems...and it's going to cost him 3 to 4 times as much to try and level the playing field....LOL!!! Very nice work Kevin....you know what I'm sayin....

Pics post here please. Any games, extra controllers. EXACTLY what kind of performance parts are you looking for....

Nope...don't need one... http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm My whole thing is this... Take a stock motor, stock geared, stock 20 inch rear tire bike. Say it pulls 6th gear to 8500 RPM. Which...on a stock choked up motor is hard to do. 67 MPH. Now, the calculator doesn't take into account: Drag. Simply put. Rider weight, air pressure, surface type, etc. Extend that same motor 3000RPM by mods (which...I've yet to see a banshee stock cylinder acutally pull to 11500, let alone rev that far that didn't have MAJOR work done to them, alcohol, etc.) 90 MPH. Again, none of the drag variables are being taken into consideration. All I'm saying is....gearing and tire size. If he simply gained that many MPH from porting alone....without changing gearing, tires...etc... hard to believe... If he added pipes, carbs, porting, gearing, tires, etc. Yep....all day long. But I know what it takes to do 90MPH... especially gaining 22 to 25MPH. Good porting, carbs, pipes...gearing, will get you there. Being realistic, again with stock gearing (14/42 on 20 inch tires) let's say that motor will spin to 10,500. That's 83 MPH with no drag... Kev, not doubting your porting or work....just saying a 22 to 25 MPH jump is HUGE...porting alone will not get you there without other things to compliment them.

Unless you're gaining an additional 5 to 6000 RPM (usable) of course....you're not seeing that kind of gain without changing gearing or tires....that's my point...LOL. Aside from that, a stronger motor will pull more gear, and get to the top end faster!!!!

Snop... Apparently he doesn't want experience or credible advice...he'd rather just go the free route, and find out NOTHING is free. So...here's my advice. get the correct tool that threads into the inside of the flywheel, don't use a 3 jaw puller, it will bend the flywheel. Pullers are 10 bucks....make sure you clean the threads on the flywheel, they will be rusty and dirty. Was that too much to weed through??

Much better and more controlled launch on the sand tracks I ride on. IF you run a wheelie bar on sand, you HAVE to have one. If not, it'll hit the bar, squat the rear end, then all your holeshot momentum is gone. Most races are won at the tree and within the first 60 foot... You also run less risk of bouncing, unloading tires, etc.... I ran my rear marvin @ 1500 PSI....it was fine for the track with no bar, once I put a bar on....strut was mandatory...

If you didn't change your gearing, you're not gaining over 20MPH....so, I'd say it's inaccurate... Or tire size, that will effect speed too. That right plug, if the chop was done right, looks safely rich. Going leaner one to two sizes will net you NOTHING...I'd keep it where it is. Looks great.

Yes... Throw it out...or sell it. get a timing plate. Easier, adjustable, etc.

For sale forums, ebay, etc. You could always buy a set and have them converted as well. best type is ford vs. chevy... It's whatever you or your builder is comfortable tuning with. IMO...for alky, Lectron is the best. They are simple to tune, but they're also pricey!!

Bolt the round hole to the frame, the elongated one is for the pipes. Not trying to be a dick..but if you have to ask this basic of a question, this might not be the bike for you....

Put the needle back in the middle clip. Put the air screws at 1.5 turns out from fully seated. Start there. Chocolate brown plugs doesn't mean anything....here's how you dial in your mains. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

What do you mean it was clocked at 126? You mean the compression is at 126? If they told you it was clocked at 126MPH and you believed them ....you got took, plain and simple.

Sync the carbs and make sure the throttle cable is routed clear and not hanging up. FMF silencers only MAY effect the jets one size, IF it was jetted correctly before. Don't know what the point of FMF silencers on stock pipes would be...more noise and no more performance....the pipes themselves are the performance killers, not the silencers.

Plugs will ONLY foul out if the jetting is incorrect, or you're using an absurd amount of oil..(or...the wrong kind). No matter what the RPM, there is a Jetting circuit to fine tune the fuel and air..so they shouldn't foul. Lugging a two stroke and fouling plugs has no relation. Poor or improper jetting does (or poor tune, like old plugs, dirty air filter(s), etc.) It's on my list of things to do...I'll never run a PVL. Too much hassle. They either work or they don't....and my stock ignition works perfectly (now that I fried my 2nd Ricky Stator and went back to OEM Stator...lol) I do want to shave a flywheel and try it...but I don't expect much to be honest.

My buddy that rode the same bike liked it better too. And he's 300 lbs. He is (was) actually a 4 stroke guy too, so...we might have to void his opinion....LOL.

I can get you whatever size tire you want. So...you tell me what size tire, how many paddles, what KIND of paddles, rim size, rim type, etc., and I will get you a price new shipped.

Not me.. I know he's gonna buy and build something else and it'll be even sicker....

Shitty man... I just had a small, two place snomo-flat bed trailer stolen from the side of my house. Wasn't even mine, was storing it for a buddy. If you have chains they can be cut...period. Locks as well. Combined system like you said, motion detector, siren/alarm, etc. in addition to the chains, locks, etc. is your only way.... And a good enough thief is going to get past that. Just be careful who you tell, the details of your system can and will come back to haunt you when someone knows how to defeat it up front. Good luck to ya, sometimes catching a thief would be worth it for the vigilante justice....

OK.... The bike is sold. There is nothing left. Someone in the US is intersted in the carbs...if he doesn't want them, I'll ship them to CA to Jer. THERE IS NOTHING TO SEE HERE FOLKS, PLEASE MOVE ALONG.

Airbox, filter and all went for 75 plus 15 shipping on ebay, btw...

I say different. When I had a stock motor, pod filters and T5 pipes, I got mine shaved. I loved it... It came on the pipe quicker...did rev down quicker...but, since it gets on the pipe quicker, big deal. I'm 250 lbs. Fat and sassy. I'm going to get an extra flywheel one of these days and have it shaved for my 10 mil cub drag bike, just to see....

Ditto... Front spindle mounts and intakes (without the crossover, which I really liked and wanted) and I ran their billet bowls when I had Keihins. Great quality stuff...