dajogejr

Hell...I would rank plug locks worse than boost bottles. At least the boost bottle will take time to crack the intake rubber. It won't help performance....but it won't hurt it by any means. Just a gimmick... A plug lock however...that's asking for engine damage... The pathetic part is it is sold and made by Trinity. They build a lot of motors...you'd think they'd know better. If they put that on my motor and it lunched on itself, it would be through their front shop window....promise.

Ok....here goes. If you need a plug lock for insurance, get an extra cylinder, set of pistons, crank...and cases while you're at it. Plugs should never back out. The engine is trying to tell you something. Either the domes are incorrect for your setup, you're not using enough octane for your setup, there is too much compression, too much timing, an air leak, or a combo of any of these. Plugs should NEVER back out on a healthy, properly tuned engine. Plugs rattle loose from detonation. If you lock them in place, something more expensive WILL BREAK....period. These are the worst things ever invented, period.

Rickys...sorry... They each lasted just under a year, first one got warrantied, second one went in the trash at the track...

Ditto... Had a 4 mil cub on gas, made the mistake of putting it back together with a FAST clutch, HD springs and no override... Clutch held...but it wouldn't shift for crap under full load. No point of having 90 to 95 HP if you can't shift it. When you're ready for a dunable override and lockup & Lockup cover, PM me...I'll get you hooked up.

Well...I hate to say it, but here it is... Ricky is junk, we all know that. The problem is...you get american made, you pay for it...and it's priced HIGH... Probably near OEM costs... I would like to see how this Moose turns out two. After two bad stator two years in a row on my drag bike...I'll never buy another product from them again...

craigslist...keep checking every few hours..no bs. I see them pop up for 1000 to 1500, but they don't last long. toyboxx's stuff is always clean, well taken care of...good peeps fo sho!!!

What...no lube?? I just got a JJ&A style, keyed axle... It was missing 3 pinch bolts. I went to Home Depot and got 3 stainless pinch allen bolts, made in the USA, for about 5 or 6 bucks... That's flat out highway robbery...and they wonder why everyone is making knock off shit for half the price...

J...very, very true...and thanks for posting that. After re-reading what I wrote, hell...I'm even confused and I wrote it...LOL... Thanks for the backup!!!

My advice....get a better gauge...to be sure. Craftsman (60 bucks for a motor cycle/small engine tester kit) Snap On, MAC, Matco... I won't trust auto store cheapy compression testers. I've seen them vary 30 to 50 lbs per cylinder compared to the snap on gauge I use.... Might be a hair fat on the jetting somewhere, but overall the inside of that motor looks pretty clean....

My man... Unless you get a DEEP Discount on plastic, double your shipping price. I just sold a set of Maier plastics on ebay. USPS won't touch a box that big, Fed Ex and UPS both wanted 125 to 140 bucks to ship the stuff.... The box needed for rear plastics is retarded... Just a heads up...

Sell them to the midget, he needs tires and pipes... Put him on the payment plan... bump for a good guy and good seller....no junk here.

Clutch, pipes, intakes and carbs...to be honest. And it is my advice if you plan on shifting it....get a dunable override as well. Then you just have to worry about a longer swingarm, longer chain, better tires and more gear..

Waiting on my design...gotta complete the look ... Can't wait...gotta show it off for the show me the money!! Don't know if it helps or not...but Verizon and Sprint (probably ATT too) have wireless air cards for a laptop...if you get cell signal, these should work. They're about 50 or 60 a month for unlimited use, but Cable Internet is about 40 or so...and it's a business write off as well...

Way to step up Iride....very nice of you to offer... They're called the stealership for a reason. Only time I use a dealer for anything is warranty work...

Bigger pistons and/or a bigger stroke normally require less jets/less fuel to a certain extend... Two of my buddies 4 mil cubs like a LOT more fuel than my 10 mil cub, for example... I would also double check to make sure you don't have an air leak as well...just to be safe.

WORD...we all do. You can also twist the hose a little so it clears better, before you tighten the hose clamp(s) down.

I just talked to Andy last week at the track. Roger (alcoholbanshee) is friends with Andy... He is building pipes again, not sure about the inframes though... According to Ebay, he's back to porting motors, too.... I can almost guarantee you he has no interest in talking it up on the forums...he doesn't need the drama... NYUK is an original gangsta of Grand River as well....

Steve... Are WE going to Bob's Saturday?? If So...I'm sure Damien is going to, could save on shipping and check 'em out in person... I plan on being there all day....

You guys aren't even right..... Open class that allows everything except porting?? Simple... Slam the bike to the ground, get a big shot of NOS...and hope your motor holds up long enough to win a class so the payout can be used to fix the motor.... I've never heard of an open drag class that doesn't allow porting...that's like wiping before you poop.

If the carb is clean, the floats are set correctly and the drain line on the bottom of the carb is seated and clean, they should not leak, period. With the bike running, turn the fuel valve off. Let it run for another 10 seconds, give the throttle two or three raps (quickly) than turn the bike off. This will burn off some fuel so the bowls aren't so full... But if you have dirt or a leak somewhere, it will only stop the drip until the fuel has time to fill the bowls back up. When you say it's leaking...is it coming from the higher hoses, on the left and right side of the carbs, close to the motor side, or the single tube on the bottom?

You missed a wire, etc. You have a bad ground... When you say bushings and seals....which bushings and seals did you replace? Motor...or suspension? Is your TORS still on? I'd unplug all that crap before you go any further, and buy the removal kit when you can.

PM me on whatever you need. Some things I can give you prices right away...some things I have to wait a few days for... MOST things I can get you a good price, some....not quite as deep a discount. PM me what you need.

The other 2 mil comes from the bottom of the stroke...it's not going to shoot out of the bottom of the engine... That's precisely why the porting should be matched. You are changing the timing on when the piston passes over the intake and exhaust ports to get fuel/air in and out.... Just to be clear...a stroker crank has a longer stroke. Stock is 54mm from TDC to BDC. 4 mil is 58mm. A long rod is an actual rod longer than stock.... Stock is 110mm, the common long rod is 15mm, of course there are other sizes. You get a piston with a different height wrist pin to accomodate the long rod. What a long rod does is put the connecting rod at less of an angle, so it doesn't want to push the piston through the front of the cylinders as much. What a stroker does is increase the size of the motor by moving the piston further up and further down...as well as allowing more air/fuel as a result of this longer stroke. As said...for a stroker crank, you need to put a spacer under the cylinders or have the domes cut to have the pistons travel 2mm up into the head... Both are common... I prefer domes because a spacer plate gives another spot for an air leak. On wiseco's site, Racer's Choice are the pistons you want....if you're going to use the long rod crank. Otherwise, use standard pistons... The pistons are the same for a long rod stroker crank as they are a long rod stock stroke crank.

PWR does make a nice radiator, as does torch works... However, I can do MUCH better than that 350 price on a new one...

To be honest, it should stay right here...and be pinned on top of all the forums... One forum isn't enough...need to let people know, read the posts in different areas of HQ...and let them make the choice...