dajogejr

If it wasn't low teens out there, I'd go look at mine. Here's my thoughts...radiator, power steering, trans, oil and AC condenser. go get a cold air intake for it. Simple bolt on, gets rid of all the plastic garbage on top of the motor and gives that motor a HELLUVA better sound... It honestly sounds like exhaust work once you shit can all that crap on top of the motor...

His two piece intakes are for the larger carbs (which I use) and are very nice. I like the fact they bring the carbs closer to the motor. The smaller carb'd versions of his intakes have the crossover built in and spacers as well.

Dave...our buddy is looking for pipes like these, I don't know if he wants to spend quite that much. I'll hit him up....

It's a good thing that 1000 cc motor they plan on butt fucking into that frame doesn't have a kick starter, I'd hate to have a project of that size held up because someone doesn't have the knowledge or skill to remove a screw on a stock banshee kick starter. That thing, as well as this are going to be abortions that just should've happened. Kinda like you two.

If you already have the 7mm crank, get domes cut. If you haven't purchased a crank yet, get a 4. Less work, hassle, headache and no trenching. In terms of cubs....yest, get a 10 over a 7 UNLESS you already have a 7 mil crank...or unless you race at a specific venue where the size limits of the class puts you less than a 10 mil...and you need to compete. Here's a trick if you have a 7 mil crank, buy a 10 mil casted cub and have the bottom decked.... Stock cylinder 7 and 10 mil motors do run, but they are a LOT of work....period.

He's our resident asshole...what do you expect from someone that plays with little boys? He probably realizes you're over 15 and got pissed. :biggrin: Actually...most people that ask about boost bottles are looking to troll...that's all. Just do a search on boost bottles...

If you've read people laughing at them, read more...you'll understand why. It's one of the few running jokes on any banshee website/discussion area.

Whether you get a spacer plate or your domes cut, the cylinders need to be ported to match the new stroked crank. In my opinion, a long rod on a stock stroke isn't worth it unless you're running HUGE compression and/or Nitrous... Even then, lots of guys run the stock rod. There are a few that will tell you a short rod revs faster as well.

Replied.

There are two different things you're talking about... A stroker crank moves the big end pin offset from the center further, give your piston a longer throw from the bottom to the top. For example, a 4 mil stroker crank has the crank pin off set 2mm further. 2 mm on the bottom and two on the top =4mm stroke. A long rod lessens the side angle on the pistons...in other words, your pistons are trying to be pushed out the side of the motor...when you use a longer rod, it lessens the angle, less stress, etc. When you get a stroker crank on stock cylinders, you can put a spacer plate on the bottom of the cylinders or get domes cut so the piston travels 2mm further up into the head. A stock banshee rod is 110mm. The most common long rod is 115mm for smaller stroker cranks (say...10mm or less). You buy a piston that has the wrist pin hole closer to the dome, or top of the piston. A long rod doesn't increase the size of the motor or really even create any HP, it just takes stress off the crank. Does this make sense?

I had hundreds and hundreds of passes on my last motor. I ate one piston because I leaned out the methanol too much. Luckily, it ONLY cost me a piston. Other than electrical issues (SHITTY Ricky Stator parts) my bike was still running and running well when I took it apart. After two years, it was due for porting and a freshened up top end. Some guys make 2 or 3 passes and pop something... It's a combo of setup, tuning....AND LUCK. There is no given....

Drag bike and longevity/long life don't belong in the same sentence...LOL. Good luck..

Jetting changes are required from summer to winter temps. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

I'm going to put this as delicate as I can. You want to bake your cake and eat it too. Build a dune bike...it'll be quick for drags but still trail ok. You will never have a great trail bike be a great drag bike, and vice versa... Talk to Kevin @ HJR. He knows how to setup his bikes, what his motors like, etc. All you normally get is opinion on how to set things up...talk to your builder (HJR) and follow HIS advice.

You're not doing that on stock cylinders. You have to get big bore sleeves installed...and at that point, In my opinion, it's not worth it. I'd rather spend the money on a 4 mil crank setup and porting than big bore sleeves.

Should be a good game...I just don't see the cards running over the steelers D like they did philly. And I don't see Ben making the mistakes McChunky Soup Whiner did. Some of his passes were flat out awful....

Search on ebay I understand 100%...but on here? Good luck!!!!

There are two sets of wires you test for the stator. The readings should be 100 off from each other. One side should be like 17, the other 117 on an ohm meter...

Brother Damian is looking for some...but he wants BB. TTT.....again...

Too bad they're not BB..they'd be sold.... Bump for a good guy...

Not to be a smart ass Steve, but that's a Cheetah, NOT a cheetah cub cylinder. I know you know that...just don't' want to see you get screwed on a technicality...that's all. That's a smokin deal...is it ported, etc?

Yep...sure is. Also...it is kinda rare for the coil to go bad, but it is VERY common for the plug boots/end caps to go bad. You can get NGK replacment caps for under 20 bucks shipped. I'd pick some of those up for insurance... RC...where in Warren are you?

Gotcha...you replied to someone when they asked if you connected the stator wires, and you said they were soldered. My misunderstanding...sorry... Ohm test the stator.

Why are all the connections soldered? that makes removal/installation a total pain. A business card gap between the pickup and flywheel should at least get a spark, albeit a weak one. We've always used a matchbook in the absence of feeler gauges. You have a loose or broken wire. Are you removing the spark plug from the motor and grounding it against the block to check for spark? I would start checking all the wiring from the kill switch to the tail end. You can not short anything out on the system by uninstalling/reinstalling it. I'm still kinda stunned why everything is soldered...factory connectors with a little dielectric grease work just fine, along with some shrink tubing to prevent rubbing through the insulation. I'd peel everything off that harness before I started replacing parts. Not very often you break a part just by removal/re installation.

My advice is get a set of domes for gas, and get a different set for alky once you switch over. They are two different fuels with different explosion characteristics. Nothing wrong with .053 squish. Mine was at .055. I could tighten mine up...but then I couldn't run as much timing as I want, and I can't hot lap it. I will take the 5% performance decrease (if that) in order to be able to ride my bike...ALOT.