NitroTate

If you are interested in trading any powder coating for the motor PM me.

Ok so your compression is ok even though it doesn't sound like you did it correctly, you need to continue to kick it until the needle stops moving and you also need to hold it at full throttle the whole time you are kicking. Besides that, yes your reeds could have something to do with it also, if you want, pull them out and make sure they are not damaged in any way and also make sure they sit flat against the reed cages. If they are gapped real bad then that can be a small factor also. You said the choke tube was disconnected... that could be it right there though. Not having the choke tube connected make them nearly impossible to start and even if they do they run like crap. Did you try it after connecting the tube?

I'm absolutely making a trip to St. A's just not sure when. The main problem I have now is my quad collection has now outgrown my trailer capacity... All I have is a little 4x8 trailer that I rigged a rack on so I could fit the 2 banshees but it's right at the load limit or more and I don't trust it for such a long trip. I'm also building a blaster for my daughter so now we have 3. I'm REAALLY hoping I can find myself an enclosed trailer prior to the start of the riding season... we'll see...

Hey thanks for the complements guys. Yeah high temp PC will hold up really well. Jet-hot and ceramic are the best overall but more expensive. You'll see the blue on my pipes and I did that as an experiment to see how the regular PC holds up to the heat. I used black high temp from the exhaust ports up to the where the pipe gets fat because it's a lot hotter down there. The high temp has held up perfectly through a pretty heavy riding season this pas summer in a lot of really hot days. The blue has held up really well too, the only problem is it gets a little tacky and hold onto dirt but I've cleaned and buffed it back out so it looks good again. Anyway, I can do your stuff for you if you want to ship it to me or if you want to get it done locally here is a round estimate of the prices you should expect; Pipe: $30-50 each Silencer: $25-30 each Extension pipe: $15-25 each Hubs: $15-20 each So yeah with possible discounts for doing everything at once you would be anywhere from $170-210 or so. Tate

My wife and quite a few friends and I frequent Killpecker and Seminoe as well as Walden. Planning a big trip to St. Anthony next spring or summer too. From Denver

I landed 3 sleds off of craigslist in the past month or two FOR FREE!! Woohoo, Now I have 3 sleds sitting in my garage barking at me to ride!! All three of them run really strong too, all I had to do is clean up the carbs and new plugs and they started right up. They're not the prettiest but hey they move. 85' Yamaha Phazer 480-- fast little bitch had her up to 80mph no problem the other day 94' Yamaha Exciter 570 -- liquid cooled runs great but need to get it up to elevation because of the jetting to really see what it has 95' Yamaha VK540 -- this thing is a friggin beast 156" long track, low, high, and reverse this thing is not fast but it will go ANYWHERE! I can't wait to get them up on some 10,000 foot elevation trails!!

What do you want to see and I'll see if I have any pics?

Damn Brandon, careful some people take things litterally... LOL :biggrin: Just kidding! Yeah like Brandon said, get the top off first and see, as far as getting the motor split yeah there are quite a few items you need to take off first and then get the case bolts out. Keep everything in ziplock bags and mark them with a sharpie. Once you have everything off and the case ready to split, carefully hit the two sides where the motor mounts are with a rubber mallet to break them apart. Don't pry with a flathead screwdriver you'll screw up the mating surfaces.

Here's a few other things I need if anyone has them, just let me know and we can work out some powder coating trades: Blaster: Intake boot and reeds, stock or aftermarket nerf bars, handlebars, 2 rear rims Banshee: 4mill crank, 2 case savers, 1 set of nerf bars I think I'll need more but for now that's what I can think of, let me know if any of you want to trade! Later Tate

Damn, I got a lot of quick responses! Ok so yesterday right after I posted this someone PM'ed me about some carbs so let me make sure this deal goes through and if not I'll definitely contact you guys back. Thanks!

yeah a compression test is an easy way to ensure things are still good or not but keep in mind, carbs can and do fall out of sync frequently so that, the choke tube, and the carb slides in the correct sides are likely candidates for the fact that it won't even start now.

That particular topic has always been a little confusing to me too but from what I've heard (stock) you have one bowl with a brass tube inside and the other does not. Hopefully someone else will chime in because BOTH of my carbs have the tube and it's ran fine for years...?? :shrug:

Only special tool you really need is an impact gun and a flywheel puller. Impact to take the clutch basket off and the flywheel puller is about $15 and some motorcycle shops may have it. Look on www.farmandsandtoys.com for a picture and you can order from them too if you want to wait for it. DO NOT USE A JAW PULLER to get your flywheel off you will destroy the flywheel. Once you get inside basically just look for wear and obvious damage, there's not much in the case of a banshee just some gears and a crank... do you have a set of feeler guages and measuring caliper and also make sure you print out the repair manual if you don't already have one, it's linked on this site, I think in the repairs forum or the general (don't remember). As long as your piston rod is not damaged you'll want to check the "side-to-side" specs in the manual for the rod and make sure it's within spec.

Do these few things before you start racking your brain too much: >Make sure choke tube is connected between carbs like someone else mentioned. (short little 2" hose connecting carbs together) >Pull your carb slides out and make sure that the angled cuttoff on the bottom is toward the REAR otherwise your slides are in the wrong carbs. >Bump the jet size up a couple sizes like someone mentioned, pull the bowls off and change out the HEX headed jets, you'll see them. However, main jets are not going to cause the bike to not start and run so the size of your main jets right now is not your problem. >Make sure fuel is ON and hoses aren't pinched... :cool: >Like Jeff Said, make sure the bowls are on the correct sides also >Check the compression, if you are above 90 psi in both cylinders it should start but if lower it probably won't OR if one is more than about 5 psi different from the other you have a problem there too. >DON'T use starting fluid on a 2-stroke, it's not good for them, use WD-40. >Contact Jeff for your head gaskets and whatever else you need, he's a great guy and takes care of customers If it still won't start, come back to us and we'll help some more.

What's up all? I'm looking for a Left Banshee Stock carb and a Blaster carb. I will trade you some powder coating work and split the shipping with you. Lemme know! PM me. Later Tate

I'd split the case if I were you. I've seen people take the chance and try to clean it out without splitting but you risk more costly damage. Not to mention it's really easy and there's really noting to the inside of a banshee case. If you have the money get yourself a new seal kit, they're only about $45. or so and worth it.

We can all help once you get it apart but post some pics of it too. There are plenty of specs to check etc. etc. but we'll help you when you get to that point.

First off, if you have any mechanical ability whatsoever don't agree to that deal yet. What you should do first is get that motor apart and see if the crank is damaged or not and then decide if you want to move up to a 4mill. The guys on this forum including myself have a lot of experience with banshees and can help you all the way through the process. If you want more help from me just pm me or just keep posting here. You can do most of the rebuild by yourself and save a TON of money.

First off, if you have any mechanical ability whatsoever don't agree to that deal yet. What you should do first is get that motor apart and see if the crank is damaged or not and then decide if you want to move up to a 4mill. The guys on this forum including myself have a lot of experience with banshees and can help you all the way through the process. If you want more help from me just pm me or just keep posting here. You can do most of the rebuild by yourself and save a TON of money.

Thanks man

If you are interested in trading some powder coating for the nerf bars and the carbs let me know...?

Yeah your filters are either still wet or you over oiled them. It's a very easy and common mistake. Blow them out with compressed air real good.

Yeah I agree with you guys, I would never buy a new one either and parts would be an issue until they become wide spread enough. But you gotta think, it's the same thing with all the new 4-strokes and their technology... there's no surplus of parts for them either but people are still buying them like crazy. I think if emissions standards keep getting tighter and tighter they would invest in the research and technology regardless of what they are putting into 4-strokes. Remember, Yamaha really is pretty strong on the front of technology and usually first to market with the best of the best. AND they produce snowmobiles and watercraft too so they might already be tinkering around with this new 2-stroke tech.

For those of you who don't already know about this... Here is a little food for thought. Everyone knows they "banned 2-strokes" however the fact of the matter is, they didn't really "Ban" them they increased the emissions standards so much that 2-strokes fell outside of the acceptable limits so the manufacturers then had to stop making them for the US. With that said, there might still be a possibility that Yamaha (THIS IS NOT RUMOR, IT'S SIMPLY MY OPINION) could bring the 2-stroke banshee back in the US brand new and with better gas mileage and power while putting out HALF of the emissions of a 4-stroke. If you aren't up on the newest technology of 2-stroke, I'll let you know. Ski-Doo among other companies already have direct-injected 2-stroke motors for snowmobiles... could it come our way in the Banshee?? That would be pretty friggin cool if it did. These motors wiegh less than 4-srokes (obviously), cheaper to produce, more powerful than 4-strokes, near half the emissions, and better fuel economy. GM and Ford have already purchased the patents for this technology so they may actually be making 2-stroke vehicles soon too. Incase you are interested I read this in SnowGoer magazine November 2008.

Yup, see below