NitroTate

You don't have a kill tether or anything? And yeah just bring some gloves to change the plugs, I've burnt myself too... :biggrin:

If you keep it clean you might get a year or two out of a decent shine but there's also a possibility it might collect sand and dirt from riding and dull it also. I have heard about the mirror black under chrome but I'm not quite sure what the purpose is... I read something about it the other day... :shrug: The clear coat dulls it out quite a bit. The closest thing I've seen to real chrome so far has been caswell's extreme chrome and it reall looks sick right after you coat it but then once you put the clear on it basically looks about like the single stage from eastwood.

Take it out and warm it up on some used plugs (the ones you have in it now). Take some brand new plugs and a wrench with you. Find a nice long straightaway Put the new plugs in Start it and take off wind it up to full throttle through ALL gears Once you hit 6th gear, pull in the clutch, KEEP it at FULL throttle and then hit the kill switch and coast to a stop Pull the new plugs out PUT THE RIGHT PLUG IN YOUR RIGHT POCKET AND LEFT PLUG IN LEFT POCKET and put the old ones back in and ride home You can either look down the ceramic on the new plugs with a flashlight or you can cut away the threads to get a better view What you want to see is about a 3 mm cardboard brown ring around the base of the ceramic. Darker (rich) lighter(lean) If you need us to look at it then post a pic of the plugs.

Definitely get them in sync first. does it run well enough to go out and do a plug chop? As long as you are sure your not dealing with an air leak or something. Pull your plugs right now and see how they look dark or light. As far as the filters, make sure they are not oiled too much. To answer the question about jetting, more air means a need for more fuel but I wouldn't change jets until you really know where you are at to begin with so do a plug check.

The heat from PC will not cause a problem but I would PC them prior to bore just so you don't have to worry about burning off the coating of cutting oil after boring and it will also discolor the bore if you do it afterword. Just make sure the person boring them is careful on your PC job. The single stage chrome can handle the heat your motor will put out but the single stage chrome will fade over time (not from heat but from UV and exposure) there are some really nice chrome powders out there but the technology really isn't there yet to keep that super shiny chrome look over time, they all fade and most of them you have to use a clear coat that also dims out the shine. It will still look good don't get me wrong, just remember it will fade out over time. Tate

Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words.

Here, I took that past picture and added some explaination to it for you. I'm the guy who did the 1st link carb sync video from a previous post. tate

I have one and I like it a lot, the only issue I've had with it is it's a little goofy to get the brake lever to clear it and still be in a good position but I managed. The only other issue I've had is if you are in the dunes and the sand is blowing around real bad it tends to get a little in where the thumb throttle lever goes into the body, it doesn't jamb up it just creates a little resistance until you blip the lever a few times to clear it out. Other than that I love it.

Oh sorry I should have been more clear on that, my side covers are billet aftermarket. I think the stock ones are plastic on the chain side but they are metal on the other side...

Yeah those guys are probably pretty close. I ride between 5300 and 8900' above sea level and I'm running 270 mains. So If you are any lower in altitude than I am you are almost definitely running really lean. Oh and if you are not used to powerbands that really is the typical feeling of them. When the power band hits, it HITS and you know it!

I coated EVERY piece of metal on my bike except for the a-arms. A-arms could be done with an infrared lamp but I sold my lamp a while back so I just painted my a-arms. See signature...

It can definitely be done, it just dulls out the shine of the polish a little bit is all.

Yeah as long as you used a good tester and ensured that it was screwed in tight and with the o-ring on then that compression is way too low and that's definitely your problem. Probably best to redo the top end.

You can get them at auto parts places but be careful of the cheap ones, they can read way off. Yeah check your compression to start with but what are you running for main jets? Also make sure your air filter/s and pre-filter/s are clean because if they are dirty you will run rich. Have you tried new plugs too?

Yeah what he said... And welcome to the site!

It's actually pretty easy, difficult to explain in written words but get yourself some type of measuring device that can measure in millimeters. Once you have the carb off and the bowl off, turn the carb upside down so the floats are visible, gently lift the floats to ensure the needle isn't sticking. Now measure the distance from the base of the carb (where the gasket sits) to the top of the float when it's resting in place, you should be within 20-21 millimeters (I believe, you'll need to check the manual to be sure). If it's outside of that then you'll need to gently bend that metal tab that the float needle hangs from in order to get it within those measurements.

Like we said, check those reeds and one other thing that happened to me a few weeks ago that caused the exact same type of issue was that my ground wire had come detached at the wiring harness coming from the stator where it connects to the main harness so check that too or any ground point for that matter...

check your reeds on that side. That same thing happened to me this past weekend and my reed cage (V2's) had sort of fallen appart and the reeds were loose and gapped and flopping around. This causes that cylinder to run odd and come on and off etc.

almost sounds like your choke tube may have fallen off... check it another possibility is your carbs could be way out of sync... one last possibility is your reeds could be bad so check them and make sure they aren't broken or gapped

PM sent

Yeah I can get you some if you want, how do you want them? Yeah the pipes are PC'ed it was an experiment to see if the candy PC could hold up to the temps and they have so far. I might just do a PC video not sure yet... definitely not while it's still 100 degrees outside....!

Alright let me explain it once more in maybe a better perception of the word "donation" since now that is what I seem to be under scrutiny for... Oh and I'm not one of those "internet fight club members" either so don't expect a big rise out of me. Ask anyone who knows me, I'm actually a very quiet, laid back guy and enjoy helping others even if it's at my own expense. (that means, if someone just wants to be a dick and demand the video without helping a fellow banshee rider cover expenses then I'll send you one for free). I couldn't even count on one hand the number of friends who I've powder coated something for free because they were in a bind. And I quote: "I

Hey Jack, it's only like $3. to Australia. It takes 5-10 days.

Got it thanks man! I'm headed down to the PO right now... Now I'm out of discs, jewels, inserts AND ink (the most expensive!!) so I need to run down and stock back up on all that stuff so I can get more discs made. So in other words anyone past this point that is wanting a disc just give me an extra day or so to get a bunch printed and burned.

Ok there you go I'm a Premium Member now... thanks for the boot in the ass.