NitroTate

What

Yup, I PM'ed ya

Oh so the one screen is big enough to cut down for both then huh? Hmmm I might just do that then. So on the shearers are they designed similar to toomeys? Does the end cap slide over the internal tube? If so did you just cut the tube down or were you able to wrap the screen around it and jamb it in there??

Thanks I appreciate that. I also just talked to them and they are $14. each but I have 2 banshees and a blaster to get them for so I'm looking at $70. that I don't have right now so I might just be risking it...

Yeah I PM'ed him to ask but figured he might be at work so I asked on the forum too.... I need to order them today or maybe tomorrow at the very latest to get them before memorial day... Do you happen to know the part number??

I'm looking for a quick answer because I need to try to order them immediately if they will work. I've talked to others that say they have put them in and i remember reading a thread a really long time ago about the topic but can't find it now. If you have let me know how you got the screen in there? Did you have to cut the internal tube down so it doesn't slide inside the end cap anymore?? Thanks for the quick help in advance! tate

Oh yeah I'm not callin' you out on it by any means! :biggrin: He probably was VERY careful while doing it and seems as though he did a great job from what you say.

That's a good deal. But spraying cold is a smarter way to coat, not hot (just so you know). Spraying hot (hotflocking) is risky because you can accidentally end up with sagging (drips) and other issues and then you're screwed and have to strip the whole damn thing down and start over. Spraying cold is actually one of the biggest benefits of powder coating over painting because if you screw up you just blow the powder off and shoot it again. :biggrin: That's not to say I don't hotflock because I do when I'm doing second coats because I don't have an adjustable gun. The structural integrity of the finish is not affected either way however. It's just proper technique to spray cold.

Typically the deal is, if you want to get a generic and sometimes slow PC job for cheap then look for an industrial place that runs large numbers of items through all the time. What you will get: sometimes lower quality, not so great customer service, (sometimes quick) but usually LONG turnaround, not very wide variety of colors or textures to choose from usually, cheap prices, and they don't always take the time to ensure they cap or plug every threaded hole and bolt so you could end up with gummed up threads or something coated that shouldn't be. If you want a custom high quality job, go with a smaller outfit or a hobbyist. What you will get: These guys (like myself) typically charge about the same and often more but we try to be exceptional at customer service, quality, and attention to detail. We plug every hole and cover every bolt and generally enjoy doing custom out of the ordinary colors and designs etc. Don't get me wrong there are still a lot of coaters out there that will do a good job for really cheap. Most of the time I'll charge between $180-250 for a frame just to give you an idea but it really depends on the particular job and number of coats and other factors.

Cool, well hopefully that doesn't happen plus I ride mostly sand and don't do a ton of jumping. lol Anyway thanks for the info!!

Ok cool then I should be fine, yes they are T2's and I do have the oversized bar clamps so as long as everything else fits on I should be good to go. I think I might like them over the stock bars, how have you guys liked them?

I didn't see a PM from you did you get mine? I'll do the trade right now for sure.

Quick question, I have a set of TAG bars I'm thinking about throwing on but they are pretty thick in diameter. Do you guys know if all the hardware like brake lever clamp, clutch clamps etc. will fit these big bars alright? Do they just gap is all? Thanks Tate

Pm'ing you

I'm just kind of feeling this out but I need a spark arrested hush kit or ANY kind of spark arrestors for T5's. I have a stock head that I will custom powder coat just about any color you want for trade. Tate

It's in the picture of the disc on the very first thread but I'll PM it to you too. I just didn't want to actually type it in a forum so I don't get spammed... LOL I get enough as it is.

Thanks man I'm glad it helped you out!

I just got one too.

I have a bunch of discs ready any takers? And so it makes Meat and whomever else happy, I'll donate $1.00 to Banshee HQ for each disc someone buys for the next 2 weeks starting today 4/18/09. :biggrin:

Yeah like someone else said if you don't want to make one you can find them, try ebay or Kevin at Herr or F.A.S.T. www.farmandsandtoys.com You have to eliminate potential problems, I've listed everything I could think of so if you've eliminated all of those then your next step is to check for air leaks unless someone else has any other ideas but that's a good next step.

Just do a search so people don't start razzing you for asking... :biggrin: There's a good one pinned just above here in this forum.

Getting a little low so you are getting close to needing a new top end but that probably isn't your problem at this point but it's good you checked. Now you need to probably focus on air leaks.

Yeah I'd probably change out the gas and oil, make sure the plugs are in tight, check radiator fluid level, lightly kick it over a few times to get things moving again and then crank her up.

Ok so then go ahead and have your dad do the other things. Hopefully someone else chimes in here but it almost seems like an air leak to me the way you describe it so you'll need to really look for leaks and if possible do a leakdown test. There are plenty of how-to threads on here to learn how to do a leakdown but that could tell you immediately if it's an air leak. Keep in mind air leaks cause a lean condition that could result in a blown motor.

You checked all of that already and found nothing? What was your compression?