NitroTate

Yeah if you watch that vid that I posted you'll see me pull one way out of sync just to show the difference.

The tool makes it easier but yes you can do it by eyballing, here is a link to my tutorial on it; No, they can begin moving at separate times if they are out of sync.

BUMP, Still looking for these items: I turn your PC parts around fast and I'll even sometimes do a little more work than what your trade part is worth, try me! BANSHEE PARTS NEEDED: >Spark Arrestors or Hush Kit >Billet Impeller BLASTER PARTS NEEDED: >Nerfs

Yeah man I'll let you know if this other deal doesn't pull through, thanks!

Hey Doug you're all done and ready to go and yeah if you want to trade for the hush kit that would be cool. I'll call you later today, I have your cylinders and carrier with me.

PM'ing you now.

I got the crossover tube so thanks anyway. I do still need some 9 inch rims though and it's ok if they are steel. PM me if that's what you have and we'll work something out. Thanks man! I try my best, thanks again! Damn sorry man I already got it but thanks anyway! I do still need the nerfs for the blaster and I'm still looking for a stock left side banshee carb (choke side). Thanks guys!!

Damn guys I'm sorry, I just saw this thread... You can tell that it was this guys first attempt at a candy... I can almost guarantee that he tried to just connect the ground and shoot the frame cold over the top of the original chrome base with a hobby gun that does not adjust voltage. That's why it's thicker and thinner in spots. He should have at least hot flocked if not stripped it bare and shot a new chrome base and then hotflocked the candy over that. It's not a lost cause at this point necessarily (unless it's worse in person than I can see in the picture). It's still possible to hotflock it again and even it out (sometimes!). Don't give up on the color that you want though, but those guys are correct, candies can be difficult. Do me a favor and take a look at the finish REALLY closely and tell me if you see "spider web" looking cracks in the candy and let me know. Tate

Great seller and quick shipper. Pleasure doing business with you!

Yeah you can't PC plastic. When we PC we bake the items at near 400 deg F. Here's a spring I did last year:

Ok new updated list, thank you to all of you who have traded so far!! I still need a bunch of items so let me know if you have some of these and want to trade? BANSHEE PARTS NEEDED: >Spark Arrestors or Hush Kits for 2 Banshees >Billet Impeller >4 Mill Crank >2 rear 9" rims BLASTER PARTS NEEDED: >Nerfs >Thumb Throttle >Gas Cap Thanks Guys

Plastic paint work compliments of "theshee". Oops sorry I just noticed you wanted pics of Krylon paint jobs, sorry....

yeah no shit huh?? I'm gonna coat it and throw it on for now. a Tummy.... haha

Ok well just curious, I'm still going to use it for the time being. I'll just powder coat it and throw it on and then when she get better at riding I'll buy her some aftermarket stuff. Thanks guys

That's what I'm starting to think. I asked over on the blaster forum too and someone said the same thing.

Guys this is the silencer that came with the rest of the million parts that my daughter's blaster came in. I don't see any identifying markings and the pipe is stock so the just threw an aftermarket silencer on a stock pipe.. Anyone have any ideas what it is? Is FMF the only manufacturer that made this shape or are there others?

BUMP, Still looking for a lot of these items: I turn you PC parts around fast and I'll even sometimes do a little more work than what your trade part is worth, try me! BANSHEE PARTS NEEDED: >Nerfs >Cool Head - Pending >Toomey T5's >Spark Arrestors or Hush Kits for 2 Banshees >Billet Impeller >4 Mill Crank >2 rear rims (not sure what size but PM me and I'll check the size tires I have) - Pending BLASTER PARTS NEEDED: >Nerfs >Thumb Throttle >Carb >Disc Brake & Hub >Reed cage & Intake boot >Gas Cap

I know I replied to your PM but figured I would reply here too. Yes that's fine, you have to remember these gears are made to be shifted when the motor is running and lubricated so when it's all dry and not moving it's difficult to shift through the gears without a little extra manipulation. Once you get it together and the oil in you'll see it shifts easier.

Yeah I don't think I would put a puller on that... I would just work it carefully back and forth with a screwdriver or something because like someone else said, that key is probably just wedged. You won't be able to spin it off.

Do you mean the "drive" gear? The slant-cut drive gear on the clutch side toward the front? If so, put the clutch basket back on and jam a rag in where the teeth of the drive gears meet the teeth of the clutch basket and it will hold for you to take the nut off. It's a safe way to do it without damage.

I'm still looking for a coolhead if you are interested in trading for some powder coating? PM me

Yeah the plastics were painted by "theshee" he does some sick work! The wheels I need are 9" for the gecko tires that I have and i think gregrob said he has a set for me but I need to link up with him first.

Bump Got a few bites but nothing 100% solid yet accept for the crossover tube and probably the wheels. Come on guys let's deal, I'm building a new powder booth this weekend so I'll be doing lot's of coating!

I'll PM you here in a bit... thanks

PM'ed ya.