IrideA250R

I just took it off yesterday (done with the dune trips for the year) and there is no oil on it at all from the exhaust. I do run T5's though so they may be angled differently. The weight isn't that much at all, maybe 15 lbs, rider weight can vary that much EASILY.

doing this all day, you need it!

I have a PRM. Rode the shit out of the bike for a week at St. Anthony with it, no problems at all. Sure was nice dumping in 2 gallons of fuel when I got to Devils Dune for some play time.

RU 1070. Best price from a reputable shop I found was CascadeInnovations.net, came with outerwares as well.

living in one! nah, just been busy with life and riding.

I had him do a 250R cylinder and wasn't impressed, in fact, he cut the head wrong and it cost me a piston. I guess it's possible he's better with Banshees than 250Rs though.

if it were my bike, I would! No effin way I'd risk a riding trip over Ricky Stator junk.

Ricky Stator products ARE FUCKING JUNK! I thankfully have OEM stuff on my bike, but my buddies Banshee (who posts here, and probably will once he settles down) has gone through 4 stators (which ruined 2 OEM flywheels), rivets breaking, bolts falling out or pulling out of the plate. each time they replaced it promising they fixed the problem bla bla bla. The last time the stator went out, it ruined his flywheel again, so they sent him a RS flywheel. 2 weeks ago out in Idaho, his bike started to spit and sputter, so we immediately pulled the flywheel cover off. First off, isn't it bad that you automatically know what is wrong with the bike? This time, the rivets in the flywheel loosened and ate everything up. He couldn't even get the fucking flywheel off by welding the puller onto it, so he had to use a 3 jaw puller. The damn thing was warped onto the crank so good that not even the 3 jaw would pull it off, and it mushroomed the end of his crank. PLEASE, NOBODY BUY THIS CHINESE BULLSHIT TRASH ANYMORE. SAVE YOURSELF THE HASSLE!

it sure does seem that way. Every time I visit LS I have to laugh and shake my head about it too.

I have a Chariot head and it's been fine for me. I spent all weekend at Silver Lake beating the crap out of the bike without an issue.

I'm jealous, I will be headed out there the end of June. Take a lot of pics and post them here!

for inframe pipes, CPI's or Shearers are by far the best bet for Cubs.

you guys that are running more oil for break in..do you realize that leans out the fuel to air mixture due to their being less gas in the mixture? Lean is typically not what you want during a break in procedure. I also let the bike warm up, and then let it rip through the gears. I don't hold it wide open though, just load the motor well in all gears.

thats because you shouldn't have to hire a fucking programmer just to work on your piece of shit forum software! They use the worst forum software ever known to mankind.

ditto

I ran a single plug for 3 years in my 250R, riding 3-4 times a week. I replaced it when I rebuilt the engine.

EZ Off oven cleaner

just an FYI, the ring end gaps are situated towards the intake side of the cylinder, not the exhaust. If somehow the ring did spin around, it certainly is not the machine shops fault. It's pretty difficult to assemble an engine with the ring over top of the locating pin, but I've seen it before. That, or the piston failed and the ring then spun around.

I've never seen where it said to mix 50/50 Dex cool and distilled water, but it's possible I guess. I just went out in the garage and read the back of my bottle of Prestone Dex cool, and it says to run it straight. I do have a bottle of 50/50 antifreeze and water (ethylene glycol) for the Banshee and YFZ.

you're not supposed to mix Dex-Cool with water, you run it straight out of the bottle. Well water is not good to mix with coolant anyways, it contains lots of minerals and can leave deposits in your coolant system. Distilled water only.

yea, they won't let her ride at the park then.

China Shipping, no wonder!

how old is she? If she's under 12, she can't ride, and 12-16 are heavily regulated. http://www.silverlakesandduners.com/rules.html there is some more info as well.

I have a YFZ 450 with hot cams. Do NOT retard the HC exhaust cam 1 tooth, you ONLY do that with the OEM exhaust cam. Each cam has 2 dots on it. With the engine at TDC (look in hole for marks on flywheel), you set the dots so that one dot is straight up, and the other aligns with the flat part on the head. If you do it right, there will be 14 chain pins between the 2 upper dots. Don't forget to release the cam chain tensioner before starting the bike. Do not tighten it at all, just let its own tension do the trick.

get new pipes. While it sometimes works, I never like running modified pipes like that. CPI's or Shearers should suit you much better.