fastbanshee8

I've seen a Banshee backfire at idle, because of a lean condition. It happened with my brother's Banshee, when he put pipes, and silencers on it, and the pilot, and main were too lean. It shot flames out the silencers, about 2 feet, and it was very hard to start.

Is it backfiring, when it's idling? Sounds to me like the carbs are really dirty, or it's jetted too lean, or you have an air leak. You are getting the flames, because it's too lean. Clean the carbs, as mentioned before, and get back with us.

He did mention that his carbs were stock, and he also mentioned a die grinder, so who knows how much he will do with the ports.

Stock carbs with 165 main jets will be running really lean. More like 260, or 270 mains, since stock is 200. If you change much with the porting, you will have to jet it richer. Try two, or three sizes bigger on the mains, then do a plug chop to see where you're at. As far as running pump gas goes, you will have to do a compression check, once you get it broke in, and let us know what it is, then someone can tell you if pump gas will be safe.

A grooved clutch basket will cause hard shifting. It won't allow the clutch plates to seperate completely, which means some power is still going to your transmission. Maybe someone else will chime in, about the shift shaft adjustment, because I have never had to mess with mine.

No problem. Glad I could help.

The two kits I bought, each had two new seals, and a new piston. Just be sure and flush the caliper out good with some brake cleaner, before putting in the new seals, and pistons. Put a little bit of new brake fluid on the seals, before you install the pisons. It will help the pistons slide in, and keep you from tearing the seals.

Just get a couple of quarts of ATF Type F, and that will work great. You can get two quarts at Wally World for about $4.

If you are still running the stock gas cap, it could be plugged up, and not letting air get into the tank, as the fuel is used, causing a "vapor lock". Another possibility is, if you have the stock breather tube on the gas cap, and it is run into your steering stem, your steering stem could be full of water, not allowing the tank to breathe. I ran into that last problem, on a Polaris Scrambler, and it took several hours to find the problem. Check those things out, and let us know.

The jugs aren't ported. They are stock. I can't see the transfer ports, or the exhaust port, but the intake side is untouched.

I got mine from Yamaha. I don't know if anyone else makes them, for the OEM calipers.

I don't know about the shift shaft mod from FAST, but when you talk to him, just ask him about it. He has the best customer service, and he will tell you all about the shift shaft mod.

I put one of the FAST clutches in, plus the shift star mod, and it works great. The shift star mod is a good idea, just my .02. My transmission shifts a lot better. If you do it, you won't have to move the shift lever as far, to go to the next gear, and you can find neutral, when you need to. You might want to consider doing the pancake bearing mod while you're in there also, unless you want to risk welding the ball to the rod.

Since you're having trouble chasing down the gremlin, try putting new spark plug boots on. The plug boots can cause some weird things to happen, when they start going bad, anything from a miss, up to not running at all.

When the TORS is removed, you won't have the sight glass to adjust the slides with anymore, and that is the reason for needing the Carb Synch tool. The whole carb top is replaced with a simple carb cap, when installing the TORS removal kit. I bought the Carb Synch tool, and it's very easy to use, and it works great.

Make sure your water pump impellar is good, along with the bearing, and seal. Now mignt be a good time to put a billet impellar in, if you don't already have one.

I've got some N-Style graphics, and a seat cover for an all blue Banshee, on my white/blue Banshee. I also put Ceet rear fender graphics on it. Here's the link to check the pics. Graphics picture

Check this thread, it has some good info. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...hl=pyramid+reed

As mentioned above, it could be the o-ring, or the water pump seal. If it's the water pump seal, you might as well replace the water pump bearing while you have it apart, if that's where it's leaking, because it's a bitch to change the seal, and bearing, or at least mine was. You will need a new clutch cover gasket also.

The inframes, as far as I know, were made to be ran with silencers, but the out of frames can be bought with or without silencers.

CPI's are pretty loud with silencers, but they were designed to be ran with silencers, so the person running them without, is hurting the performance of the pipes. Running a pipe without silencers, that was designed to be ran with silencers, is stupid. It makes the exhaust too loud, and kills the performance.

Gear that damned thing up. With a 13 tooth on the front, you've got to be spinning like crazy. Go with a 14, or 15, and that should help a bunch. Launch in 2nd from a dead stop, and that will help it hook up better.

The Yamaha blue would look pretty good, with the black fenders.

That would be the right crank shaft seal. It's the only one that can leak tranny oil, into the crankcase.

I got mine from the White Brothers catalog. It's either a Moose stator, or an Electrix stator. I've had it for 5 or 6 years, with no problems at all. I can't remember for sure, but it's either 250, or 275 watts, on the lighting side.