Animalman294

I believe that Sand Mountain NV is about 650 to 700 feet of pure sand, no trees bushes or rocks up on the mountain just on the outskirts on the back side. The front side is steep, but the back side is even steaper and I was told that it is as steap as sand can pile before it starts to slide. The entire mountain moves about 3 inches per year, and eventually in say 2000 years it will flow into the next valley over. And yes there are groups that are trying their damnest to close down the dunes, because of some damn butterfly that I know lives elsewhere but they are trying to get it on the endangered species list. What's the difference if they get caught in the grill of my Banshee or the grill of my truck. I think its bullshit as well because I have talked to people out there that say this butterfly also lives in other parts of Nevada. Its just a way for the environmentalists to close more riding areas. Its more than locals that go out there. A lot of people come from California and to ride. This last memorial day weekend there were so many people out there that we ended up stopping in the middle of one of the roads and unloaded the bikes blocking the road. But hey we met some cool people from Carson City who are going camping with us over here in California.

Man, you guys have me rollin' half the time. Some of the things that people do when they don't quite know what they are doing is hilarious . But hey, at least you are trying, but I like the upholstry shop idea better. No offense guys, but you are funny as hell .

I agree with fro on the air leak thing, or the pilot. Most people don't have an aftermarket filter between the tank and carbs, but a small wafer type filter would keep crap from getting to the carbs. I just filled all of my cans before memorial weekend and when I got to sand mountain I was mixing fuel and when I poured the last little bit into the ratio cup, I noticed a bunch of crap in the bottom of the cup. I found particles of black stuff and rust, and all my $hit is plastic so it came from the station. So, now I have to pull the carbs and clean the pilot jet, because it is dying sometimes while idling. What I am getting at is you cleaned everything, but your tank may have had crap in it, and working on it dislodged it and now is in your carbs. The screen in the tank doesn't always stop the crap from coming through. Kind-of odd that both cylinder's are dying though, usually it just runs like crap, but lust on one cylinder. Anyway, that was my experience. You May want to check the rubber parts for air leaks, and make sure the cross over tube isn't cracked or have a pin holes in it. Hope this helps...........

I run H1R and am mixing it at 36:1.

I used Red Line for a while, but then switched to H1R. I didn't notice a difference performance wise, but the H1R comes in bigger bottles and since I only have the two to choose from I went with that................

Well I can see by the posts the popular brand is Castor 927. I use the H1R or Redline. Are there bad things about these oils that I haven't heard about yet, or do you guys just like those oils? Out of the shops around here they only carry redline and H1R, Damn small towns, . Oh well, they seem to do ok

Cool, thanks guys, that clears that up. My shee is an '02 so I shouldn't have problems with it yet, but ya never know. I'll keep this info in the back of my mind just in case my shee ever craps out for no apparent reason.

I like my t-5's they, pull all the way through the gears and they sound pretty sweet too. Mine came with the bike when I bought it, but I have been really happy with them. My dad has the fatty's and I eat him alive, but then again he's dad and I ride balls out and he just rides . I haven't ridden his bike though (afraid something will break). I think he plans it that way, just when something is about to break he loans it to me, then I feel guilty and have to fix it for him . Well I vote for the t-5's, but I guess watkins went with the SST's, so just my 02.

I agree with Loco, but I am also biased because I run T-5's. The problem with your comparison is yes your gearing with the fmf's is higher, so yes, out of the hole you are going to win but top speed you will loose. I am confused about one thing thats odd, you are asking about fmf and t-5's then you test t-6's. Correct me if I am wrong but there is a performance difference between the t-5's and the t-6's. I was told t-6's work great on stock bikes, but not on modded ones. So the added reeds may have brought the performance of the test down. Anyway, bottom line is if you are testing different pipes for performance the bikes have to have the same setup or it wont be an accurate test, oh ya and the riders should be equal on their amount of experience. I still like the t-5's, just my .02

Ok, I have been reading left and right about the this TORS thing, but have yet to figure out what it is. I know its on the handle bars and leads to inder the left side of the tank. Everyone who talks about it knows what it is and what it is for or not for, but can someone explain it to the rest of us ? Does it help your shee when it is disconnected, or do you have problems with it then disconect it to solve the problem? Thanks for the info........

Since we're on the subject of porting, how reliable is it? I mean am I going to have to rebuild my motor every year or are the ported motors pretty reliable with routine maintenance? Who does good port work in Cali. or near here? What does it run to have the port work done? Thanks

YA, ya do, ya take all our water from Northern Cali

Ya, I just bought mine from dlnoss in anodized red. It looks shweeeeeet on my black and white shee with red shockware. I got the 20 cc domes and run 50/50 AV gas 100LL and 91. It's about two dollars cheaper a gallon than race gas. You have to put new domes in it unless you already have a set of Noss domes, and hey with the smaller domes you get more compression and more power. So beleave me its a good thing to get the new domes, stock domes I think are something like 24cc. I live at 1000 feet and ride and ride at 200 feet and sometimes at 4000 feet. I was told by dlnoss that at 4000 feet I would be fine with 20cc dome on 91 pump gas. At the 1000 to 1500 feet where I live I am border line, so I run 50/50 just to be safe. Below that I definately run 50/50 or to be safe I run 100% AV 100LL. There are usually three reasons people change their heads, smaller domes - more power, better coolant circulation, and they look so damn cool on your shee.

I have seen a few people running with just a box and 86 the lid. That way you have a little protection just in case you come flying around a corner and find yourself slidin' through a puddle the size of Lake Michigan. Been there done that............ This was what I was thinking about doin' what do you guys think? It gives it a lot more air flow but yet limits accidental drownings. I do like the idea of getting rid of the entire airbox, but that is only when I have to wrench on the motor.

It kinda reminds me of Herbie the Love Bug . I think it's the lights......... But seriously though, its your bike, do what you want with it. I personally could think of better things to do with my money, but then again its my money and your money is your money. So, spend, be free, as long as you like it, thats all that counts. Don't let these guys raz ya, but I do agree that this is the best site on the web for banshee info and help. If you stay long enough you'll see, because one day you may need help and these guys are a hella-of-a lot cheaper than taking your pride and joy to a Yamaha Stealer, which 9 times out of ten if you add any aftermarket mods to it they are lost and couldn't find their asses using both hands and and a map. (Just my experiences) The users of this site are racer's and enthusiasts who know their $hit, and if someone posts something that is wrong, there are many others who will let them know their mistakes. Don't sweat it Bro...................

About the metal lathe, one thing you have to be sure of is that the shaft that the flywheel is attached to is tapered so you have to make damn sure that what ever lathe you use to straighten out the wheel is pefectly balanced on a tapered shaft. I'm not tryin' to start shit, but a jawed puller "Doh" . That sounds like something I would have tried . I think I would have held off the couple of days. I bought my puller for $9.99 and sent it off to Boonman and had the thing back within a week. Awsome service............. All kidding aside now you are in a rougher spot. You may go look in this section and the post by Bansheeryder had someone that was selling a stock unbalanced flywheel for a 2000 and up Shee. It may be worth a PM to find out. Good Luck man......

I agree go to Rickystator.com and get the number to call. They are $35.00 + shipping, its like $42.00 and it was on my door two days later. You are going to need to also pick up a flywheel puller $9.95, because the timing plate is behind the flywheel. You are also probably going to have to use a file to shave the edges of it (the timing plate) so it turns freely, no big deal though. While you have the flywheel off you may want to send it to Boonman, dlnoss, or Banshee Worx to have it lightened. Then hold on , not quite like the Cub motor. good luck

Just remember you have to have the power to pull that 15. If your bike doesn't have the power yo are going to think you have an anchor on your arse. The 13 will get you out of the hole quicker, but your top end will go to $h!t. I was going to go to the 15 one step up from stock, but I want to finish adding my mods first. But hey they are cheap enough try it and see if you like it. Good luck ......

Ya, I bought one last year, before I was properly educated. And You know something I think it gives my Shee the same amount of power increase installed on the bike as it does still in the original packaging sitting on the counter in the garage. I am still trying to figure out what I want to do with it, I know................

I have tonight to install my new Noss Head , but I have a lot of other things to do before I leave for Sand Mountain. So, I was wondering how long it takes to change heads, and if there were any tricks to make it go a little more smoothly. I think I just need to remove the tank and I think I can work around the T-5's. I figure if I don't have to rejet, then I may be able to stay up really late tonight and sneak the new head on. Then load the bikes up tomorrow and head out. Those of you goin' to Sand Mountain I'll see ya there. Thanks........

I agree with Never Satisfied you don't have to change the jetting with the new head. I just got one from dlnoss and he told me that you should be fine, but if you are worried about it check the plugs.

You need to check your compression.......... If your compression is over 150 then you need to run a higher Octane gas. I've always been told 150-165 lbs of compression run 50/50 mix, and anything 165 lbs and above should be straight race gas..

I ordered mine from Ricky Stator and it was here two days later. It was $35.00 plus S & H, and yes I noticed the difference. I will have to check the plug, but I think I am going to leave it alone. I wanted to also install the new reeds and head, but with all the rest of the things I need to do before this weekend, I decided against it. I even thought about just putting the new head, because then I won't have to rejet. But with Murphy as my shadow friend, I think what ever can go wrong will and with only two days left before we go I don't want to risk not having my bike because I am waiting on a Stealer only item. . So ne

Hey what's everyone ridin' up to Sand Mountain NV. in? So we know what to look for, I'm bringing plenty of beer come on by

I guess I wasn't clear as to what I was saying, but yes I was talking about Fuel and Air mixture not oil to fuel. The oil and fuel mixture doesn't have much to do with jetting, unless you put so much oil in the premix that you are starving the engine of fuel, or too little which would cause no lubrication, but that is an entirely different problem. But I thought that if you increased the main jet size you allowed more fuel to flow through the jet and the higher the needle was, that much more fuel would even run through making it even richer.