Animalman294

The higher on the needle you put the clip the meaner it becomes because this allows the needle to go lower into the main jet. But the lower on the needle you place it, when it comes to rest in the hole of the main jet it sits higher now and allows more fuel to go through thus making it richer. Leanest Leaner Rich Richer Richest And this is with the stock needle, after market (ie Dynojet needle) gives you more slots six I think. If this is wrong please anyone chime in, but I think it is right.........

Now I was told that you need to step down two jet sizes after it was dialed in, and if you went three it would probably be fine and would probably make it run richer. Is that right? I thought if you were down two sizes and it was fine then if you went down one more size it would let a little less fuel into the mixture and run a little more lean not rich. Or do I have this backwards. Man-o-man jetting

Right now I have my timing set at +4 with only pipes and a K&N. I don't think that I am going to have enough time to put on any of my newly purchased mods. I need to find out if I can advance the timing without hurting anything. I mean do I need to mix 50/50 Av gas w/ premium, or will the advanced timing be ok. Or do I need to check the jetting? I am going to Sand Mountain NV this weekend @ 4000', and live at about 1000'. I mean I know in a car you can advance the timing and and not have any negative effects on the rest of the motor or put it in any danger of burning the rings or pistons. Sorry for all the questions, but I am still in the learning curve for my Banshee............, but I do appreciate the responses. Or should I take it back to stock timing "0" until I can put the rest of the mods on and check the plugs at that time?

I just got my Noss Head and wanted to put it on my bike, but I am not sure if I need to rejet or not? I know that you have to rejet when you change the volume of flow ( ie. Reeds, carbs, etc.), but I don't think that I have to do it for a 20 cc domed Noss Head. Any input would be greatly appreciated...........

When you do the plug chop, do you always have to tear up the plug to do it, or is that just for a visual of what to look for? And just so I am clear, the plug should have a 2mm band around it and be dark brown, not black and not a grey color? If the color is light brown then the bike is lean, and if the insulator is all brown (not just a band) then the bike is rich? The heat is also supposed to be half way up the grounding terminal. So if it is just showing on the tip the plug is too cold and needs to be hotter, and if it is really close to the threads then the plug is too hot and needs to be cooler? Please correct me if I am wrong, because once I get all my parts on I have to rejet my bike.

No I don't have a jet kit and I am not sure what the dyno jet needle is. I am still using the stock carbs with the stock needle. I was going to buy a kit, but I was told that unless you change your motor configuration a lot, you won't use half of the needles that come in the kit. So I was going to go and buy 300's and 27.5 pilots (or is that stock) and start from there. Then if I have to go up or down I will buy the next jet. I just thought is was kind of a waste if you have the whole line of jets and never use half of them, ever. Thanks for all your help.........

Ok, so dial it in after the mods are done, and then fine tune it with the dial-a-jet. I still need a ball park to start in with the mods that I am adding. So 300 mains, 27.5 pilots and the needle would go to what, the second clip from the bottom? What about the air screw adjustment? Should I back it out a half turn or how do you determine this? Jetting....................

Thats exactly what I am wondering. Because you only have five adjustments and you are supposed to be jetted in the middle of the range. That way if you go up in elevation you can adjust for the elevation, but if you go down in elevation you can again adjust for the change. I am just trying to figure out where to start from. I think I only have to re-jet if I change the flow of air (ie. reeds, pipes, filter, etc.)

I am doing a few mods right now and am not sure where to start for my jetting. I have Toomey T-5's, Noss head 20cc domes, lightened fly wheel, Delta 2's, and a K&N, and a Dial-a-jet. I don't want to buy a whole kit, because you usually only use a couple of sizes anyway. So what size do you guys think I should start on with my main jet, pilot jet and what position for my needle valve? I am going to be riding at Sand Mountain NV 4000 feet mostly, and otherwise around my house at 200 feet. I already plan on running a 50/50 mixture or straight AV gas or race gas if a friend can hook me up. Thanks for the help........ Cheers

I read a while back, that the V-force delta 3's are for motors with port work and other mods done to them. I just bought a set of Delta 2's and (man those things are tiny) 'er I mean they are being put on a bike that will have a noss head w/ 20cc domes, timing advance plate, lightened flywheel, shift star mod, Toomey T-5's and a K&N. I will go get it ported later, but would I be better off getting the delta 3's instead? The reeds are too new and there is not a lot of feedback on these, so I went with the tried and true delta 2's, but can anyone help me out here? Thanks for the help......Cheers

No, its really easy. Took me about an hour (damn newbie). The hardest part was trying to get the damn nut off. Most guys in here remove the nut with an impact gun, but if you are one of the lost souls like me and your shop isn't set up with alllllllll the toys then you have to improvize. In enters yamaha (tool-pack-under-the-seat) spark plug remover. As it turns out it is the perfect length to go from one of the little square blocks sticking out of the side of the wheel and the lip of the case towards the back of the bike. I put a little tension on the wheel with a socket wrench and voila' nut breaks loose with little effort and no damage to fly wheel. A fly wheel remover is a must however, or you will severely kill your fly wheel taking it off. Under no circumstances are you to pull it with a jawed puller. The real puller is $9.95 made by Motion Pro and is worth the money to keep from destroying your wheel. Oh, and by the way the threads on the puller are reverse and with a little oil on the threads it will screw in really easy. You can do it and when you get the wheel off send it to one of the machinists on here they are more than competant and will treat you good. Boonman should have mine by now or really close to it. I also tore the other side of the motor off, again about an hour, and removed the shift star for him to mod that too. Cheers

I sent mine off last week to Boonman and also sent my shift star. I don't have it back yet, but when I do I will let you know my .02, but from what everybody has stated it should be pretty shweet. I can't wait to try it out..................... As everyone also stated in previous posts, you need to send it to someone like Boonman or bdbanshee. The reason for that is because they do this mod for the banshee. Don't get me wrong you can take it to a local machine shop, but what you need to ask yourself is are they going to know how much material to remove and from where. These guys have done literally hundreds of these things, so we trust them to do a good job. Save yourself the trouble and just do it you wont regret the mod and for the money, it cant be beat...........................

Holy Sh*t $9.00 a gallon ! Your tag line is wrong because you have to live in California at that price.

Do a search on here for Ricky Stator or timing plate and there are pictures of where the timing marks should line up. I found them the other say, because I ordered my plate on Friday just waiting for it to arrive.

Hey, that question I did know, damn it Loco you beat me to it. zero it is..............

man-o-man you guys are just trying to start shit . I would say 90% of my riding is at Sand Mountain NV. So, from what I understand (from a previous post) is that I would have one kick ass shee to fly and tear around sand mountain. Sounds pretty sweet to me, thanks for all the input Loco.........keep it real

Man I didn't know what kind of shit I was starting when I asked a few questions. I was literally shocked when I checked the board and saw this string still running. I thought someone else asked the same question, until I read the started by...........Oh ya me. Its fun to read what goes on in here at times, but hey thanks for all the posts. I think I am going to get better on my bike before I get a set of cubs. I'll work my way up instead of starting from the top........Later

I probably already know the answer to this question, but hey it never hurts to ask. Which repair manual do you guys prefer, I mean which one is better at explaining the prcedures to tear your bike apart? I know with the Clymer manual or the Haynes they give you just enough info to make you dangerous, but enough to get you by. I mean I have a clymer manual for my CBR 600, and am still trying to figure out what the electrical problem is. I mean the book helps, but it is kind-a vague in a few areas.......... So help me out here guys, which manual do you prefer?

I am trying to get more power out of my Shee and have a few questions about Cubs or Stroker's. Most of you are running stroker motors and enjoy the hell out of them. I personally have never tried either one of them, so I am not sure about the performance differances with either one. What are the cost differances in the two? What additional machining or parts do I need to get to set up a stroker, and who has the best prices for stroker's (helpful dealer's not money grubbers). Would I have less head ache setting up a Cub motor? What do I need to do to set up the Cub motor? Do all stroker's need to be ran with 100% race fuel or can I mix 50/50? Most importantly I want it to be reliable and not have to tear it apart all the time to keep t running good or have it over heat. Routine maintenance is a given, I just want to enjoy my weekend and not spend it working on the bike all the time. Thanks for any input that you have. It all helps my decision making..................

I'm headin' out to sand mountain on at the end of the month (Labor, Memorial, which ever one it is) anyone else headin' out there?

Do you need a special fly wheel puller to get the fly wheel off, or can you use something like a stearing wheel puller or gear puller?

Those of you who are using cubs, do you have problems over-heating if you are not riding balls out? My stock set-up does that now and am thinking that maybe my jetting is wrong and producing too much heat. I was wondering if the power was increased does that increase the heat factor, or because of the better circulation does the motor stay cool? Thanks again...............

I was going to do the same thing, but use a radiator out of a street bike. I was going to use the street bike fan and put a switch to go from the lights to the fan, since the stator wont handle both. Or get a heavier duty stator to handle everything. At night it is cool enough to run without fan and during the day ya don't need the lights. The radiator was also going to be attached to the frame under the seat with a grill (expanded metal) to protect it. Just a thought............. By the way when I was checking into this before a couple of guys told me that if I was overheating something was wrong. Either the impeller was fried and needed a new one or I was not jetted right and it was producing to much heat....... Another thought would be a Noss head and some engine ice. also invest in a temp gauge (really helps)...........

I want to thank all of you who answered my post. I have learned a lot of valuable information from you guys. will the cubs work fine with the T-5's? I am trying to get my bike a lot faster, and am trying to create an all around bike. Most of the riding I do do is in the sand, and I like to drag against other riders (for fun, not competition). I wanted to build the bike up and not have it over-heat with the increased power. From what it sounds like I will be gaining better water circulation with a NOSS head and a set of cubs. I love sand carving and racing around in the sand, but we also desert ride and at times we are not running balls out. My whole family goes for these rides and not everyone is running full tilt. Not only that, but there are places where there are rocks and boulders that will really do a number on you if you fly through them, or tear your bike up. I just want to have an all around bike, but with power on demand to bury 450's..................

You really need to be talking to dlnoss, since they are his head design. But hey, just for the input, I'm a newbie but here goes. I PM'ed Dave before and he told me that when I was ready to get one of his heads that I could get 20 cc domes and be fine. I ride at 400', 1000', and 4000'........ At 4000' no problems with running pump gas 93, at 1000' with no timing advance borderline, but at 400' I should run 50/50, and it wasn't necessary to run straight race fuel. I also questioned about AV-gas or 100LL and he told me that that would be fine ($2.75 a gallon). Now like I said I don't have first hand experience "yet", but am going to have it soon. But seriously, contact dlnoss he would know more about them than anybody else. Just my limited .02