Animalman294

I have been running T-5's for 2 years and in my opinion yes they are the all around pipe. They do pretty good with stroked and poked motors, and yes there are better pipes for this purpose, but they hold there own..........

You definately need the puller, and make sure that it is screwed all the way in or you may rip the threads out. What I did was use the tube that you use for the spark plug to remove or put it in. I put the foot peg back on and rotated the flywheel until the little square balance plate that is on the outside of the wheel was above the peg. I then put the spark plug tool between the little plate and the peg, so that when you put pressure on the flywheel puller the plug tool was held in place and the nut spun right off. To tighten it you have to put the plug tool below the peg and use the same little balancing plate that is welded to the outside of the flywheel. This worked for me hope it helps..........

Hey, I didn't want to hijack the other string, so I started my own. I am really interested in getting the 4 mm cub, but I would like to know what I am getting into first. What other mods are going to have to be done for me to run this (ie. extra cost). From what I gather I think that I can run all my stock parts at first until I get more money. Is that true? I am probably going to have to buy a +4 swing arm, new carb, have the crank welded, larger pistons, etc, etc, etc. Can I still run pump gas with this setup, or do you have to run race fuel (I usually run 50/50 anyway)? I am looking for the bottom line guys. I want a set of cubs, I'm just trying to do it right the first time and not knowing what to expect isn't cool. Thanks for the help.

If NOSSman told you to run 20% and 80% then do it, the man knows what he is doing. Enough said................................

We are planning on going for the first time on Thanksgiving weekend and wondered how it was. I hear the weather is great at that time. Anyone with info I would like to hear from ya. What are the fees like, and is there a noise curfew now or times that you can't run the hills? Thanks for the info....................

You originally asked where you could find instructions on how to tear down your shee. This site as you can see is very helpful, but you should really invest the money and buy a Klymer's manual. They can pretty much tell you how to tear down your entire machine, and if you have anything that you don't understand, come here and ask questions. Just a thought....................

I ride sand mountain and it takes about four and a half hours for me to get there from Cali. Hey look at it this way take a suitcase of beer and try it out. Crap riding is better than no riding at all, and after that you will know. I also have an idea try calling a local cycle shop there and ask them if there are any dunes worth a two hour trip....... Good luck man

I know they put the blue lock tight on them from the factory, and yes they are a biotch to get out. I stripped a perfectly good allen wrench trying to get mine off, and I was afraid that I would stip the inside of the allen with my neighbor's tatanium set. So, I did what any red neck hick would do and broke out the vice grips . I'll be damned if they didn't just twist right off after clamping down on the slightly flat outside edge.

Word........

I read a post a while back about rerouting the lines and moving the resevoir bottle to the front of the bike. This is done mainly because of how the Shee is designed. If the bike is running hot and you are going down hill. Relocating the bottle and routing the tubing up over the stearing neck doesn't allow the fluid to siphon out and onto your pipes. Do a search on here and it will have pictures and a better explanation. I will look for it and post it if I can find it again, unless someone is more familiar with the post and knows the address. Hope this helps............. Found it http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

I don't know anyone running a hemi head, I'm sure they work like any other head, but unless you are getting a hell of a deal I would stick with what is tried and true. Everyone that has a Noss or Cool head love it. I personally went with the Noss head, it cools with better water passages, increases compression, and the anadized red head looks Sheeweet on my bike. Plus I wanted to support the sponsors and they are always here to help answer any questions, so give Dave a PM he's a great guy.........

Boonman lightened mine and he was right nothing made me happier. I love how quick my shee revs up now. And I can get through the gears faster, which didn't give me more power, but allowed me to shift and get to the next gear faster. I also liked the shift star mod because it is a hell of a lot easier to find nuetral now, and shifting is a breeze. My only problem is when I am shifting I keep hitting nuetral, which is odd because it happens in any gear. I will be slammin' gears up a dune and all of a sudden I shift and weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeening, ning, ning, ning, ning, ning. Then I shift down one gear and keep going. I personally think that this is operator error . I was thinking about turning my shifter a little more down, because I think I may sit too far forward on my bike and I am not pulling the shifter up high enough to get it all the way in gear, and am stopping a little short. I highly recommend both mods though, they are both worth the money, like I said I think the shifting is my fault because I was doing that before the star was modded, it just wasn't as touchy. My Shee is a tempermental Biotch......

I think with your mods you should run a 25 which is stock. That stock pilot can handle a lot before you have to step up, but if you prefer I agree with the posts above the largest I would consider for your mods would be a 27.5. The ported motors seem to be running 27.5.s or with larger jugs, but with only pipes and the basic mods you should try the 25 and see how that works. That 60 is only good for extreme motors or a straw to make it more interseting when you crack open that next cold one..................

I heard it was the same as engine ice, you just don't mix it with water, you run it straight. I already bought mine so I will try it and see how it works. Some people swear by the engine ice and other's the water wetter.

You might also check to see if maybe during the assembly process , something may have been dislodged and caught in you pilot jet and just needs to be taken out and cleaned. Its worth the time to check if you take the carbs off anyway.....

I am a true believer in the Delta 2's, but here recently I read a thread that said that the Boyeson Reads are good for Hill Shooting (climbing). You should talk to people who do this regularly, like PM Loco he's been doing this type of ridin' for a while. I know there are a lot of other people who do hill shooting, but I am not sure who they are, but maybe they will chime in soon..........

I was going to suggest a Noss Machines head, but if you read his tag line he already has a Cool Head w/ 22cc domes. So he has to look elsewhere for the solution to his problem. Try the engine ice and new impeller, but I would venture to say that you are not jetted right..........

Man that compression is hella high, good luck man. My thoughts are that you need to run race gas even at that price. I thought maybe you may be able to run AV 100LL, but I don't think that you can because the octane isn't high enough.

Sounds to me like you are running too lean. I haven't heard of any bikes running hot because they were rich. You may want to take your impeller out and have a look at it. Check the plastic gear inside the case cover, not just the vanes under the inspection plate. Either way the stock impeller is crap and I would change it out either way. Just a thought...................

I run the V-force 2's and just recently bought them, because they were tried and true. Plus, I didn't find too much information on the Delta 3's prior to my search. That Dyno at the above is kinda confusing, but I think that it is comparing a lightly modded bike and a highly modded bike with different reeds. I don't get the Delta-4's though. any way just my .02............

My dad runs a set of fatty's with a K&N and is running a 270 with a dial a jet. Most of our riding is at about 2000 feet, but we also go to Sand Mountain NV which is at 4000 feet. He only changes the dial a click or two and it runs great......

Changing the jets doesn't give you more power. It compensates or corrects the ratio for the air fuel/ratio for any changes from stock. You will need to rejet if you change either of these. If you add pipes the air is able to exit the motor better. If you do anything to change incoming or outgoing air (ie. open air box, high flow filter, bigger carbs, porting, reeds, larger jugs) you will rejet. You should do a plug chop anytime you change anything on your bike just to be safe. There are many things that you can do to increase your power, any of the items above plus a new head, or a stroker are nice mods. It just depends on how deep your pocket go. I bet you have some awsome dunes to shred up. Anyway good luck....................

It sounds like you are convinced to pay the money and get it done right. One thing the honing tool does that sand paper doesn't is hone it out round. If you try to do it with sand paper by hand, it will be impossible or should I say extremely hard to get the cylinders pefectly round like they are suposed to be. if it is sand too much in one area the rings wont seat right and will fail prematurely. Just my .02.........

Whats up with Sand Fest? I was told that its a blast, but there is a noise curfew and the price to camp there is rather pricey (I heard per site and per bike charges). I also heard that they have drags with rails and other things. My wife and I want to go, but need more info. When is sand fest anyway?