Animalman294

I just went through the same exact thing with the pipes. But mine just flat out died and couldn't get it runnin' again. I checked the spark and no spark, unplugged the T.O.R.S. and got spark back, but still no joy. I then decided to do a compression check 85-90 psi, extremely hard to start if below 100. So then I tought well maybe I'll check my reeds and while I'm at it clean out the carbs. Pulled the carbs and discovered the a-hole that I bought the bike from installed the carbs with not one but both of the carb springs with the top coils not centered and wedged under the cap, creating a gap for sand to enter the carb slides. Well sand in the motor would explain why the low compression. Then it dawned on me that when I pulled the carbs, I forgot to turn off the fuel. with the fuel lines dangling in the air with no fuel dripping out I then discovered that my tank was also full of shit and thats why the motor wasn't getting fuel. Moral of the story, when you buy a used bike, check everything and I mean everything, and never assume the guy knew what he was doing, because a case of beer and a few buddies and everyone is a mechanic. Anyway, it could be a combination of different things, but you may check a few of these for the culprit. Thank god my fuel line plugged up or I could have done more damage to the motor before I realized that the carbs were sucking sand. And by the way, yes my left pipe was cold and my right pipe you could barely touch...................

Just a suggestion but you may also check your compression. If the compression drops below 90-100 the shee's are a bioch to get started. But once they are warmed up everything tightens up and makes it a little easier to start, but I would check that first before tearing the carbs off......Hope this helps, and welcome to the HQ's

I was leanin' towards the boost bottle . Just kiddin' glad you figured it out before ya messed something up .

The driver rolled down the window and WHACK, the cop smacked him in the head with his nightstick. "What the hell was that for?" the driver asked. "You're in Texas, son," the trooper answered. "When we pull you over in Texas, you better have your license ready by the time we get to your car." "I'm sorry, officer," the driver said, "I'm not from around here." The trooper runs a check on the guy's license--he's clean and gives the guy his license back. The trooper then walks around to the passenger side and taps on the window. The passenger rolls down the window and "WHACK", the trooper smacks him on the head with the nightstick. "What did do you do that for?" the passenger demands. "Just making your wish come true," replied the trooper. "Making WHAT wish come true?" the passenger asked. "Because I know your type," the trooper says, "two miles down the road you're gonna turn to your buddy and say, 'I wish that asshole would've tried that shit with me!' "

A Somali arrives in Minneapolis as a new immigrant to the United States. He stops the first person he sees walking down the street and says,"Thank you Mr. American for letting me into this country, and giving me housing, food stamps, free medical care and free education!" But the passer-by says "You are mistaken, I am Mexican". The man goes on and encounters another passer-by. "Thank you for having such a beautiful country here in America!" The person says "I no American, I Vietnamese." The new arrival walks further, and the next person he sees he stops, shakes his hand and says "Thank you for the wonderful America!" That person puts up his hand and says "I am from the Middle East, I am not an American!" He finally sees a nice lady and asks suspiciously, "Are you an American?" She says, "No, I am from Russia!" So he is puzzled, and asks her, "Where are all the Americans?" The Russian lady looks at her watch, shrugs, and says... "Probably at work!" What a country, Ha.............

Oh, you're right, my bad, sorry...........

I thought when you adjusted for idle you turned the screw all the way in until it lightly bottoms out, then backed it out 2 turns. Or am I thinking of something else?

Well I decided to do a compression test on my shee last night and came up with 85-90 psi cold, so it's about 90-95 hot. This I think is too low for the shee to even start, isn't it? Would this also explain why I have one pipe hot and the other cold? When I compared the two cylinder's they both were the same pressure though. I am at 900-1000' so isn't the pressure supposed to be at about 120-130? Oh, and the only things on the bike right now are the t-5's and a K&N. The rest of the parts in the sig. are sitting next to the bike in a box (no time to install yet)......... What do you think?

I agree with the compression test. My shee wouldn't start and had no fire, so I unplugged the T.O.R.S. and got the spark back butit still wouldn't start. Compression turned out to be 85-90 cold, so it's about 90-95 hot. Good luck........

What, no help! Ohhhhhhhhhh I guess I'm on my own on this one, unless my diagnosis is correct.

I tried starting my shee the other day and found out that I had no spark at either of my plugs. Well after doing a little research after my shee wouldn't start I figured that I would unplug the T.O.R.S. and see if that helped. Well I got the spark back and it started and ran for about 3 minutes then died. One thing that I noticed was that the pipe with the choke controlled carb was (left side) was cold to the touch and the opposite side (right side ) was 90- 100 degrees. Now this leads me to believe that my carbs are plugged up, and mainly the left side since it doesn't seem to be firing over there. Can I just leave the T.O.R.S. unplugged and strip it off the bike, or is there something that needs to be connected to complete a circuit, and that with the screwed up carbs are causing my problem? I have spark (not very impressive), but it is enough to fire the cylinder, and I'll check the fuel flow and air flow when I get home. I think it is about time I took the carbs off and cleaned them anyway, but does anyone have any other ideas as to why this is happening? I would think that one cylinder firing would still run, just like shit. I think I will take a day and clean the carbs, plus this will give my foot a break (wore a hole through the bottom of my boot kicking it over, and now my foots killing me (damn kickstart)). Thanks for any input............

Ya pictures would be nice. I thought about doing that, but may end up just buying an aftermarket one. My problem is deciding +4 or +6 with a new cub motor for duning............

We were going to go but wifey still can't ride with her healing broken leg and I have to fix our trailer. I think we are going to try and hit it on the next big weekend. Let me know how the new cub works with the +4 swinger in the sand. Hope you have fun................

From what it sounds like, I don't think the guy has to worry about burnin' alky if he is looking at cash flow problems with carbs. I agree though the better breathing 35 PWK strikers are what I was told to get from Jeff at FAST, and I think that is a plan............

I also got mine from motosport and they are great people to deal with. The price is good and they have free shipping. I bought a set of V-force 2's back in May of 05 and I didn't install them yet. Then when I heard they stopped making the 2's I didn't want to hastle with later on getting reeds for the cages that they no longer make. Although they will make the petals for a more years to come, but they could stop at any time, its up to them. Anyway, they took the set back and swapted out the 2's for 3's and they don't even carry them any more, but since they still had them in inventory they exchanged them. They didn't have to do that, but they did. About the jetting question anytime you change the flow of air or the flow of fuel you have to check your jetting. Otherwise you just ride it the way it is and your shee will eventually let you know if it is rich or lean. The leaner it is the quicker it will tell you though................

Ya, ya got me too. With half of the brain dead people I see at the dunes though, I thought that I was going to fall out of my chair laughing so hard . Then again I constantly hear people say "hey I was thinking.............and has anybody ever tried this............." I do know that if you reverse your rear paddles, they go backwards .

I took some aluminum wheels off my old truck and used a eight inch grinder with a polishing wheel on it and shined my wheels to a mirror finish once. Now I would like to strip the paint off my case and do the same thing, but there are so many small crevices that this large wheel wont get in there. What can I use to shine the aluminum parts on my shee up like that? Thanks for the info...........

I use the NGK's and they seem to work great, and its probably about time I change mine too. I read in the manuel for the Banshee that the Br9es is colder than the stock plug which is the Br8es. Now the Br7es shows that it is a hotter plug than the Br8es. Ya might check into that again...........

I don't need 100hp stump puller. I am thinking that a 4 mil cub setup with 35's Noss head, and reeds will be in the high 70's to mid 80's. I'm running t-5's not shearers, so it should be respectable to ride. I'm trying to find out what length of swinger to get. I was going to go with the +4, because for all around riding with this setup it would still corner good. I'm not just going in a straight line, but I wanted to know what other people were doing. I don't want to be the fastest, just faster than most. I don't need to have a 500 horse cummins powered Dodge, but damn its fun when I find a testy Duramax or Powerpoke. You just need to adjust your riding style. I mean it is a progressive throttle, not an on/off switch or all or nothing situation. I mean it would be nice to ride a cub first, but I don't know anyone who has one in the Yuba City, CA area. Thanks for the input, it all helps...............

I am thinking about getting cubs and would like to know what size swingarm people are running, and what they mostly do with there Shee's. What type of riding do you do? I was going to go with a +4, but recent information is telling me to go with a +6 for the turtle factor (roll over). I mostly do sand, loggin' roads, and gravel quarries. Let me know what you are running. Thanks for the info............

The Cubs are pretty reliable and pack a hell of a punch in the power department. It will definately cost more than the port job and new head and carbs, but you will have to get a new head and carbs anyway with the cubs. Just give Jeff at FAST a call and he'll hook you right up, great prices too. I'm getting ready to do mine and he told me all about the pro's and con's, very informative. Tell him what type of riding you do and what you want and he'll give you the total. But from what he told me and what those that have them now this is not going to be a bike that you are going to be crawling through creeks and climbing over rock on. But then again thats what the four pokes are for................

So do you still shift like you do with a standard clutch? Sorry guys I've never been on a bike that had one, but I ask the questions because I only want to do this once.........

How many of you with the cub motor's (4 mil) are running standard clutches with HD springs? I am trying to figure out if I need to go with the lock-up or just a heavy duty F.A.S.T. clutch. I put aside $2000 for a new cub motor, but am finding out this is going to nickel and dime me to death, to the tune of $3000. I shoot the hills against other people, but I don't full on drag race for competition. I do mostly duning and fast logging trails as far as riding. How are these clutches for shifting? I mean are they a pain in the a$$ at dune carving or are they worth the extra money and skip the standard clutch replacement? How do they work, maybe that would help me figure this out? Thanks for the info..............

Hey Nik, you should go read the post that you put in repairs and mods. And I don't mean to sound like a a$$, but you only need to post your question in one forum. There are some on here that get rather nasty when you post the same exact question in more than one forum............

AV gas is usually 100LL, which is 100 octane Low Lead. It is about half the price of race fuel $3.50 a gallon vs. $7.50 and up for race fuel. It is a cheaper route to go and runs real good. I believe about 160-165 psi on the compression and you need to run straight race fuel to avoid detonation (ie. your killin' your motor). Someone can chime in here, but I think you can get away with 100 octane. It also has a lot to do with you elevation, outside temp., mods etc. the list goes on. Well good luck any...............