BigRed350x

In general, a wider rim will hold the tire more "square" shaped and won't let the tire balloon out. So you can have a 22x11x8 tire on an 8x8 rim and it will look like the tires on my drag bike in my signature. Then you can have a 22x11x8 tire on an 8x10 rim and it will look more like a 20" tire, wide and flat across the top instead of a rounded balloon shape. So you can't compare tire size to roll-out. I have 68 RO 22" tires and 73 RO 22" tires. Wrapping the tape measure isn't an accurate roll-out either. You are getting the RO measurement of the outside edge of the paddles, not the tire carcass itself.

130psi in my 10mil cub, and 150psi in my duner. I never run anything higher than 160-170. If its higher than that, I will get new domes cut. Its all in how you set the entire package up and what you're trying to accomplish. If you want a high rev motor, the higher compression will fight you. If you want bottom end grunt, then the higher compression will help, to an extent, then it starts to fight itself. -Jared

The banshee ignition fires every 180deg, and both plugs fire at the same time. So if you are just hooked up to your coil signal wire with your trail tech, then divide your rpm number by two for real rpm. With fatty pipes that would also be a much more realistic number. 5, to 6500rpm is a LOT more realistic for your setup. -Jared

Bump for a good guy! No worries here guys!

OFF THE MARKET, PENDING FULL PAYMENT FROM BUYER. Thanks guys! -Jared Pics and a video link at the bottom... Built this engine just a few months ago. It has 2 heat cycles on it and 1 half-day ride at Walden. Other than that its been parked in the shop. The top-end is practically brand new. The cylinders are as-cast from CP Industries, ready for custom porting if you wanted to. Kevin at HJR custom cut 2 sets of domes for me, and I ordered the top-end through him as well. The engine has all new seals and the cases are bead-blasted and No chain whack or breaks of any kind. I got a couple new toys lately and it seems like the blue bike just sits any more. I know someone here can get some enjoyment out of it. Nothing wrong with it, its ready to bolt in, tune, and go ride! I also have a set of 22x11x8 12-paddle SLS haulers on 8"diax10wide" douglas blue-label rims. $350 shipped! $3000 SHIPPED!! OBO 4mil super cub (as-cast, no porting done to it, newer super-cub design) 72mm bore wiseco pistons (2 heat cycles and 1 half-day ride on them) 39mm upp intakes stock reed cages with boysen dual-stage reeds noss head from HJR 2 sets of Custom cut domes, set up for pump-gas. .052" squish clearance on one set, and .048" on the other. 4mil hotrods crank with max-load bearings on both ends bead-blasted cases bored and port-matched to cylinders hinson spring-loaded billet basket straight-cut gears direct-drive lockup & cover billet water pump billet water pump cover cascade innovations stator cover adjustable timing plate stock stator stock flywheel gears are all side-cut shift-drum has 2nd bearing on the end of it shift-pro kit shift-shaft mod pancake bearing TM Design-works case-saver. Pics from the 1 ride I did get to take it on... Video: I'm 230lbs and that's a +8 swingarm... http://s260.beta.photobucket.com/user/WyoBanshee/media/MAH00454_zps9ab8210d.mp4.html Thanks! -Jared

The hole is threaded and where the powerjet feed hooks up. all aftermarket bowls have it.

Post pics.

Read back through the post guys, he gives prices on everything!

This thread fails.

Gotta support a good guy who does good work at good prices! Jared

Plastic bead. Dont use an abbrasive media like glass or coal slag it will screw up your mating surfaces and bearing area. Use something softer than aluminum. Soda ash or plastic or a combo of both. I use a 30% soda ash and 70% plastic bead lately. The plastic breaks down fast though. Jared

Give kevin at herr jugs racing a call for your engine work. He does awesome work! You can also get a lot of tge parts you will need through him. Yes , aftermarket frames have vins. Jared

I dont have any carbon buildup at all from castor927. I would lean more towards shit quality gasoline.

If you are in CA, just send your stuff to Kevin @ Herr Jugs Racing. Great work, great guy to deal with and fast turnaround time! -Jared

You haven't seen a pic of me have you? I'm already a fat-ass. I didn't notice it much. A smaller guy would probably hate it. -Jared

Its Obama's fault.

Here's my 4mil duner. (black bike) Its definitely NOT cheap to do, but works great and looks cool. Total cost is around $300 when its all done. Tank, mount, lines, filter, etc.

Any times or dyno numbers off this?

Heres a direct quote from calvin... " Will iteffectthingsiftheCCRistoolow or too high?....yes it will. Although the difference in a tight crankcase and a loose crankshaftarea is not as big of a difference in volume as one would think. The area that seems to get overlooked IMHO is the base gasket area, if you put a .100 spacer plate, (say you had just put in a piston with a taller deck height, or a longer rod without using a shorter deck piston), the amount of volume is NOT just the volume in the bore....it isthe total volume of the bore area, PLUS the volume of the "slice" of the transfer tunnel area on each side.....multiplied by thethickness of the plate, (or the amount that the cylinder was raised). Sometimes the extra volume is a help, sometimes it hurts performance."

Maybe it would help hearing it from calvin pollet, or tim bond... LOL Heres a very detailed conversation about case volume and pressure. The concersation was started by calvin pollet, the guy who designed the cub cylinders, cheetah, DM, puma, sphinx, etc. His comments are also backed up by tim bond, owner of titan racing and one of the most intelligent guys in this industry. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/1070379/Searchpage/5/Main/41/Words/case+volume/Search/true/Re_Crankcase_pressure_theory_o#Post1070379

Man, you and spurdy are sooooo far from the truth it hurts. You both need to go do some homework. Crankcase volume DOES affect performance. The bigger volume in the case is going to change the velocity of the fluid as it travels from the case to the transfers. Basic fluid dynamics! Now, the damage in this guys pics is probably not going to affect his performance because the damage is not significant. Try this... Run a stock stroke crank and cylinders on a set of cases that have been bored and stroked for a 10, 14, or even a 16mil setup. I garuntee you that you will notice a difference. I know, because ive done it! I ran a stock stroke on a set of 10mil cases and it sucked! If what you guys are saying was the case, you could increase the case volume infinitely, and the only thing that would matter is the stroke of the piston going up and down. Think about it like this... Take a straw from mcdonalds and blow air into a ziplock bag. Now take that same straw and blow air into a garbage bag. Now tell me that the velocity of volume increase in those two bags is equal just because the staw used in both cases is the same. There are engines from top running 2stroke moto GP bikes back in the 70's that actually had custom stuffer setups made to decrease case volume to help performance and increase velocity in the transfers. Jared

Whats your end goal? Why do you want to run race-gas? The engine setup and compression and timing and dome design determine what fuel you need to run. Give Kevin @ Herr Jugs Racing a call. He can go over all of that with you and get you an engine setup that does what you want. There isn't a single answer to your question. There are a lot of variables that need to be determined before you move forward. -Jared

Send your crank out to kevin at herr jugs racing and have him true/weld it while you have it apart! Jared

I purge with 91 pump gas. There is no load on the engine when you purge (assuming you are just standing there blipping the throttle.) and no worries of detonation.