sheefreak

I agree, good stuff. Down side is it is $17 a bottle.

Baddshee, Red, Bansh-eman all have great suggestions. You can buy all the shifting components(excluding shifter) for around $50 oem. These parts will wear out after a million shifts. Might as well change them all and be shifting like new again. The adjuster Izericson is speaking of is eccentric like a roundhouse(or Honda style) carrier. Just turn it and look real close, you will see how it works.

Little black box underneath the gas tank. Should be black and yellow wires, unplug it. And yes, you can just leave it unplugged. Really all the tors elimination kit does is give you new carb tops to replace the bulky stock ones.

Hello?

You can get a stock airbox setup cheap. Try to get one from someone that already has the Pro-sesign filter adapter.

Possible air leak. Do a leakdown test. If it loses more than a lb of pressure per minute, spray some soapy water around all possible leak areas and look for bubbles. Did this just happen all of a sudden, or did you have it apart for another reason and then had problems?

I run Klotz supertechniplate 40:1., depends on what oil you run. General rule is always safe w/32:1. I have never personally run a shaved head, always a cool head, so I am not sure what the volume of your domes would end up at, there for can't calculate a compression ratio. I am sure someone will chime in that has. I belive shaving it 30 you will still be able to run premium pump fuel. Another thing to keep in mind is if you don't have your crank welded, more compression could cause disaster.

If you submerge your banshee on a semi normal basis, the stock airbox w/snorkel on is the only way to go.

Racegas will not give you any gains. Racegas is necessary once you bump compression, and advance timing to keep your motor from detonating. So if you want to look at it as I bumped the compression and timing to gain some power, which now requires race fuel to run, then yes race gas will improve performance. Make sense?

No.

:baseball_bat: That sounds exactly like what happens when you lose compression on a side for whatever reason be it sticky rings, leaned out condition at one time, or just plain wear. Need to do a compression test to see where you are at. If that is good, you can start concentrating on fuel delivery and elecrical.

Best setup for a beginner on NOS is the Boondocker system. It will not give you as much power as a wet system, but is way safer. Pretty simple system.

Are you 100% sure you put the float bowls back on the correct carbs? If not, your choke will not work correctly. Also, make sure the crossover tube between carbs on. If you are not sure of the bowl situation, look inside the bottom of the bowls. Should be labeled 1-1 and 1-2. 1-1 goes on the carb w/the choke pull(left side).

Are they ported and if so who by? Any pics?

No problem, just wanted to make sure. Unplug the little black box that is kind of underneath your front left side of gas tank. That will tell you if it is a TORS problem. If it is, you can just leave the box unplugged till you eliminate the rest of the TORS system.

Need to check compression and make sure it is ok. Could possibly be a hair lean at 280's. Not sure i've ever head of a 19.5 pilot, I would run a 27.5 w/your setup. It's possible that the TORS system is giving you fits. Does it start and idle, but not rev at all?

2 into one carb setup, PT mids, bump compression, woods port.....to name a few.

Plus 6. Click image for larger view.

They are definately bad ass!

Length of rod and stroke are two different things.

Not sure why you need billet for a 4-mill, but if you have $1900 extra sittin around, knock yourself out. http://www.mattoonmachine.com/cgi-bin/Matt...cgi/15-300.html

Definately split the cases!!!

Yes. I wanna say the one from T.M. designworks has a lifetime warranty. Not positive on that though.

The screws you stripped are notorious for doing so. I never use them anyway, I just take the carbs off and take off the bowls to empty or clean. Either the float height is off, or the needle is not sealing when the bowls are full. Make sure that little needle moves freely in the tube. Then a visual way to chaeck to see if the foats are ok is hold the carb right side up w/the bows off. Now gently push the floats up(as to simulate the bowls filling) and watch to see if the needle seats before the float hits max height. If it doesn't, bend the tab on the floats just a hair untill they do. Should solve your problem. When you clean your carbs or have the bowls off for any reason, all it takes is a little bump to the floats to throw them off.

Honda style carrier.... eccentric(spelling?)... trying to think of other names. You will have to play w/your back sprocket size to get the right combo. 15/42 should get you in the ball park. I can't answer why it is you can't get the 14 back on though.