sheefreak

I belive I saw an individual who stated they don't like snomopowered banshees. I for one like anything faaaasssst!

Very good!

LOL!

I am just bummed because of the classified section there for go fast parts. W/all the people that are going to be dropping off the site, it won't be near as good.

What'cha askin for the footpegs?

I think the benol has a great smell to it. But as Dave mentioned, I would run the Supertechniplate w/gas. Is a synthetic w/benol mix. Still smells great!

In my opinion the 10 paddle hauler will bite a little better. The extreme is just a more reinforced paddle. The fact that the paddles don't flex as much as on a hauler may give it a hair better traction paddle for paddle. But I don't think it makes enough difference to say you need to go 1 more paddle on a hauler to get the same traction as an extreme. Basically if you run a pretty good amount of HP, I would buy the extremes to ensure you aren't going to rip paddles off the thing, if not, haulers work great!

87 to 89 are the J-arm style. Only things that changed after 90 were electrical connectors and color. Unless you are looking to build a dragger you probably want the a-arm style..... Both the 96 and 98 you mentioned fall in this category.

Definately don't need Rippers. I run about 85 horse and run a hauler b2b. The paddles are reinforced a little more on the extreme. Same size scoops though. Since you mostly drag I would go w/a 22x11x8, 69 or 70 rollout 8 or 9 paddle and go w/a bead to bead rather than an ultra light since you still do a lot of duning.

Besides that, you lose all ability to do anything but go straight.

I agree. A +4 is plenty for your mods. You would need a 14 paddle to get that swingarm to hook up and would just hammer on your top end.

I would keep them. They do actually help the motor keep from twistin real hard in the frame. The more hp you run, the more important they become. If your motor twists too much it is possible to throw a perfectly adjusted chain.

It makes a big difference as far as the ride goes between the link and no link. If it is strictly a sand hill shooter I would probably go direct link. Traction will be a little better this way. But if there are nasty whoops where you are hill shooting you should probably keep the link. I cannot tell you the strength differences between the ladder and the aerotube style. I happen to have a ladder style and is still very light.

I have seen worn cushions in the clutch basket do that as well. Sounds/feels like chain is skipping teeth on the sprocket.

What did you do to "modify" the perch? You need to figure out why you don't have enough clutch cable. If anything they will stretch not shorten. Have you looked at the arm on top of the case to see how it lines up w/the arrow? That could be your problem. Is it routed correctly?

PM'd ya. I'll take em if they aren't sold.

I love my Banshee, but my duner R is way more fun to air out, and will kill most any trail banshee through the tight stuff.

The fattys like a bigger pilot as well. But if you are going to run w/the lid on, just close your airscrews down some. Remember the Fatty is a mid-top end pipe. It may not be as strong right off idle as the stockers, but should be extremely noticeable on top.

Some snowmobile carbs have a high low adjustment on them. The banshee carbs do not. The airscrews only adjust the pilot ckt. As daj brought up, if it is colder out then last time it was running well, you may need to richen it up and would exlain that problem. But if not, you need to look at anything that would restrict fuel flow. Once you have eliminated all that, it is time to start thinking electrical.

Who ported them Crush? Stock stroke? Have a buddy that is on the lookout.

No. As a matter of fact they give you more of a hollow sound, and sound louder. I have had the DNR tell me they make the pipes louder. I have never seen evidence of it, but they certainly don't make them quieter.

I know it is not cheap, but a hush kit will get you by. I either load mine in the truck and drive it in, or wait until the DNR is checking someone else and drive up to the checkpoint.

Glad to hear you got it figured out. Your post just didn't sound good the first time I read it. I was hopeing noone would be that clueless.

Has nothing to do w/going slow. I run mine as quiet as possible at all times anywhere around the parking lot so I don't attract attention. If they want to sound check, they just grab the next guy in line when done w/the previous. I have seen them soundcheck stock piped 300ex's.

What kind of built motor. Drag, dune, low to mid port?