sheefreak

How many hours on the top end? If you turn it off and try to kickstart it right away does it start ok then?

I would also immediately think piston slap. If you have a good machinest in town, tear down the top end and have him check piston to cylinder clearance. You can check ring end gap and it can give you an indication of the cylinder being to large, but it may also just tell you the rings are worn. It is possible your crank has issues as well(out of true, rod bearing worn, etc.) but easiest place to start is w/the top end. Also have someone look to make sure your ports are chamfered correctly. Non or poorly chamfered ports will usually snag a ring before a piston skirt though.

Don't bother w/the CDI, there is no rev limiter. Once you are stroked and ported you can start thinking about improving your ignition.

I just finally caught up w/this thread. Very nice meeting you Shayne, hope to see you again Labor Day. I also met Blewbyu and his crew, very nice people as well. Hope to see everyone on Labor Day!

Start w/your carrier bearings, see if their is play in the axle. Then make sure your castle nuts are tight.

Maybe GSS? Nitrous and reliability don't really belong in the same sentence, but the boondockers will probably be more reliable then the others, but at the cost of power...

I am sure some will disagree but w/a close to stock bike just about anything will do and last quite some time. I just replaced a TUSK in a 4 mill w/no lockup and an override after a year and a half of abuse. I will say though w/the addition of the override this year, I need a lockup.

http://www.ktperformance.com/

Not the most cost effective solution IMO. If one rod bearing has failed, how far along is the other one? If you have to replace both, it is gonna cost ya. At that point you might as well buy a new crank.

What have you checked? There are quite a few things that could cause this problem.

Yes. Remember, only leans the pilot ckt.

Another good word for WCR. They had actually misplaced mine and was taking a lot longer than he had told me. He made it more than right and my 1-5 duneable shifts flawlessly!

If anything, they will be a bit too much traction. But as stated, since you are a lighter rider, you'll probably be ok in the dry fluffy stuff. If the sand gets wet, hello sky! I weigh 170, 6 inch swinger, 9 paddle b2b's and it is a chore getting a great launch w/o having to let out of it.

I saw you there last weekend but had a truck load of nephews w/me or I would have stopped and said hi. We were only at the dunes for about an hour, took a break from WMSD. I see the dude w/the black 1000cc rocket motor got a bigger swinger. I guess I will no longer be beating him off the line... Did you by chance race him? I never got to see him make a pass.

Will be there the 1st through the 8th. Will have a spot on the strip w/canopy and all that good stuff. Stop by and say hey!

If you can't find used, call Sandtoyz Unlimited(818-500-SAND). They have the best selection of B2B haulers that I can find. If you want the SLS's(tripple buff) there are more choices.

No, you are correct, it wouldn't be the main to lean it out. You said your airscrews were 4 turns out, airscrew adjustment only affects the pilot. The more you turn them out the leaner your pilot circuit gets which is about good for starting, idleing, and just into the throttle. If I have to go more than 2.5 turns, I go one jet size down. Yes you are looking in the right direction for top end at the stated 180 to 190 jet. If you feel you are lean in the middle, you would want to drop your needle one notch...

I am not sure I've ever heard of a 22.5 pilot, but then again, I've never asked.

I run Type F w/a neutal down and no problems. Never tried it w/gear oil though...

I have raced the Tyson 450 several times. I think it is awesome and wish I could afford to run one. That is where I have a problem. I have a stock cyl, drag ported 4 mill(still on Gas) and hang right w/that 450. I have been running my 4mill for two years(hard and often) and have replaced the rings. I know Brad is still somewhat in the development stages, but ask him how much $$$ he has put into it in a season and a half. If you want to talk naturally aspirated, you can double the price of the 4-stoke build to run comparable times. But I will say, like it or not, the four strokes are coming...

Thats great for a lightened stock chassis!

Did someone reputable cut them? If the squish angle and volume isn't right you could have deto problems which could have possibly caused the damage to the domes. Were the spark plugs ever backing out on you?

Does it give you a nasty kickback once in a while? What setting is your dyna on. It is possible that the timing is so far advanced that it will fire and start running backwards. Your ignition will fire regardless of which way it is running.

I agree w/Dave on the 100LL, watch your plugs to see if they back out. Listen for a nasty pinging sound as well....

I don't know of a torque spec, but I always use blue locktite on the nut. You know to adjust it till the lever on top of your cases lines up w/the arrow right? And do this w/the hub and clutch springs tightened.