sheefreak

I have been through this. You may get in once or twice, but any of the experienced officers will turn you around and your day, weekend, or week will be ruined or you will be paying $160 to Dunelands for a set of sparkys that because you had to quick rig them up will prolly fall off in the dunes anyway and you will be right back at square one. And now I am hearing rumors that sparky's are being discontinued???? I find this hard to believe, but unless you want to go through a load of trouble, I would get things squared away the right way before you go.

I would stay away from ether fellas, there is absolutely no lube properties to it. I have never had a problem starting my bike on purge fuel, sometimes a little stubborn, but always starts. If you need a shot of something, put a mix of gas and oil in a spray bottle, that will get it ignited. I have also had the floats stick after a while of sitting. Maybe didn't purge quite well enough??? I would check that and make sure you didn't suck up any dirt into the pilots while you are in there. I am sure it is something simple. Do you use the same oil to purge as you run in your alky? If not, you should. That right there can cause problems.

Very nice custom! That thing should rip pretty good.

It basically has to be a stock unmodified pipe or one that has the USF stamp on them. You will prolly have a hard time w/the two w/encaps missing. And as mentioned, they are right on top of what is and isn't spark arrested

I see you are in K-zoo. I live in Battle Creek and am looking for a local powder coater. Can you give me the name of the place that did this work for you? And what was the turn around on it?

I had explained that I started frying clutches after the override, before the lockout.

This is what I used on that setup. And those cyls are even setup for pump. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=114201&hl= I don't know this dude, but if redline set them up, they are good carbs.

I like that Trinity setup too. That is real nice. I don't think they fit Shearers unfortunately.

I like it...turned out great! :beer:

You need to clean the pilot jets real well. Airscrews should be about 1 1/2 turns out give or take a 1/4 to half turn.

I had an 80 to 85 horse gas dunner and had the same problems shifting w/just stiff springs. I tried everything as well. Went w/the override, shifted like butter but started burning up clutches. Finally got a lockup and never had another problem. My buddies bike is in the 70 horse range and he has never had a problem shifting it. I get on it, and works good for me as well...I have no idea why???

Does the rod on that side have any play? How bout the piston. does it have any play on the rod? Sounds more like you may have lost one of the bearings. You may have chunks of something in your exaust.

If it is smoking that bad and is a crank seal, you will have lots of oil in the pipe on that side. You should also be able to put your hand behind the silencer on that side, rev it, and have your hand litterally coated w/oil. I would take the pipe off and see if you can dump oil out of it before you go tearing into the bottom end. White smoke usually means coolant. Unlike tranny oil, it takes a lot less coolant to make a lot of smoke. Do you have a cool head. If so, I would bet you lost an o-ring. But even if not, I would check your head gasket. A lot easier than splitting the cases. So basically, pull the pipes and see if you can dump oil out of them. If yes, crank seal. If no, check the head gasket.

I have not seen a gasser that needed a pingle, but it won't hurt. As mentioned, check your vent line and drill the cap. Should take care of the problem.

I agree on being rich. It explains both why your pipes are so hot and why it runs worse the longer you ride it. If you are too rich and it can't burn all the fuel, he excess may be igniting and burning in the pipe. What do your plugs look like?

That is kind of a long time to be sitting idle. Especially the warmer it gets. There are a few possibilities as well. Your pilot could be partially clogged or just plain lean. There could also be a problem w/your impeller. Neither of these things make sense if you have been doing this in colder weather w/o any problems. Something easy you could try is closing down the airscrews a bit. Will tell you if it is a lean pilot ckt if that fixes the problem.

I start my builds around Christmas time and this year I still don't have everyting back yet! Good luck to ya.

I told banshee_drag03 it was worth a little more than that...He must have wanted to sell it quick! :cool:

Oh, and if Boo wants them, he has first wack at em anyway....I don't care if he can't pay me till the end of summer!

I would love to see someone local take it off my hands so I could see it run. But I am in no hurry to sell. As mentioned, I haven't gotten it back from Nate yet. As mentioned before, I know it seems a little high for used, but the only thing used about it is the fact that it has been owned by someone other than the manufacturer or builder.

Yes, you are correct. Tack on another 150 for polishing and a 3-4 month wait from Nate. I understand they are not going to be easy to sell at that, but someone who has a catastrophic failure this summer will be more than happy to take them off my hands. If they don't sell, I will keep them and run em, and sell my A&S top end just to run something different. Either way, just thought I'd offer.

Very good score rurys.

No.

Nate Mccoy has mine for a replate, new alky domes, and pistons. I also have a Noss head that goes w/it. Both head and cyls will have fresh polish job on them. They are fully drag ported and dyno tuned by Nate. I will need to get $1400 obo for the setup though. Here is a pic of the head.

I am curious as to what you run on your 4 mil?