sheefreak

:cool:

Bump for a good seller!

Jeffs a good guy. Glad he got you straightened out.

When you come back and say...."this thing shifts like shit underpower...shoulda listened to you guys"... I am going to be one of the first in line to say told ya so. :cool: It is not just an issue of shifting fast, but shifting at all. Once you start adding good power to these things, they don't like to shift. On the bright side though, you will get really good at tearing banshee motors down!

You may be able to remove enough material w/the flexhone, but may be approaching clearence problems. Like I said, it is hard to tell w/o having them in front of me. Prolly need to take them somewhere that knows what is going on if you want it done correctly.

32.5 is huge. In my experience, there is rarely a motor that requires larger than 30's and most will be fine w/27.5's.....However, that is not the reason it is overflowing. You need to adjust your float height, that is causing the overflow.

That is rediculous for the pilots. Don't feel stupid and don't be afraid to ask. Have to learn somehow. I only came off sounding kind of harsh because I am trying to get through to you the sense of urgency. Run your oil at 40:1(if it is quality oil) and I agree w/AK. Check and make sure your stator is not waterlogged...

That's cool man... live and learn. I am not going to give you a hard time. They are going to have to be looked at. You really need to get a good crosshatch on those cyls so the rings seat correctly and to help oil retention. It is hard to say what you will need to do w/o looking at them. If the bad scratches are below the ports you will be ok. Just get it honed by someone that has a flex hone. Or as some on here call it, a dinglebarry hone...LOL. Worst case scenario is having to bore it and fit new pistons to it. I would take them to someone local to have them evaluated...

I assumed he meant he will be dragging on sand. If he is going to run alky on a duner, he better have a big auxillery tank bolted to the back of the quad, or stop and fill up every 20 minutes.

Did we not have this discussion about the shitty hone from sears, or was that someone else?

Which will make it leaner yet. You are trying to kill that motor. When people speak of lean, they are speaking fuel to air, not fuel to oil. Running more oil only makes less fuel and more oil get through the jets making it even leaner. Your problem is you are way to lean and that always creates a hard to start motor. Need more fuel. Close your airscrews down to 1/2 turn out, pull your choke, and see if it starts any better. It is possible that your floats are off and leaving your fuel on let some flow into the cyl making it easier to start. But if that was the case, it should be running out onto the floor out of your overflows.

I ran 39PWK's on alky on a 4mill Patriot Drag ported motor w/Shearers and ran great. I second ditching the t5's.

If it is a budget thing, skip the straight cuts and spend the money on an override. Not sure who told you to skip the override, but I would have a hard time believing it was Dennis Packard....

You are way lean on your jetting bro. How do you know your compression is good? You need to turn the slides back around. What are your airscrews at? You need your jetting to look more like this.... 300 main(maybe fatter) 27.5 pilot airscrew 1.5 turns out lower the needle one notch to richen up the needle a hair. You are lucky it has run as long as it has....

He is correct...He won't steer you wrong. And sheerider, great explanation, we must have been typing at the same time. Not trying to undermine you. :cool:

The lockup uses cintrifical force to apply more pressure to the outer clutch and squeezes the fibers and steels together to keep your clutch from slipping. The more RPM's the motor turns, the more force is applied. The more power and torque you produce, the greater the need for a lockup. You can get away w/stiffer clutch springs till about 80 horse or so. I had a 85 horse drag ported 4 mill that was fine w/o a lockup till I got an override. The overrided provides a jackhammer affect when shifting causing your clutch to slip. This a good enough explanation?

Thanks for the help and advice..... You will probably now get ridiculed and told you are an idiot because you are new to this forum and you must just be attacking some poor innnocent "'Premium member" and that you should probably just shut your mouth so Utley can go about his normal daily business of ripping off the good members of BHQ.........Oh, and don't forget, if you say anything against it, you could be banned as well....

A whole lot of other things go w/going faster so plan for more than just the crank and top end.....Timing plate, pancake bearing, longer swinger, more tire, lockup clutch, override, etc.....

No problem bro. Are you understanding the diff. between a lockup and an override?

You want an override tranny. You may or may not need a lockout for your clutch. These items are two different things. If you can afford the lockout and cover, or slingshot under cover lockup additionally to the override I would get one. Otherwise, override first. Hard telling what racecut is...could be an override or it could be a back cut tranny. Override is shift w/o pulling clutch, backcut makes for smoother shifting.

www.tysonracing.com Give him a call, he always answers his phone. 2487555060. I can't tell you what he quoted me, you will have to ask him yourself. I like it a lot, but comitted to having one done by someone else.

I bought some same sides chrome from Kevin at HJR for the same price I could get raw ones directly from Matt himself.....I would give him a call.

Well, guess he speaks for himself. I am sure you have seen the long thread on Utley and his scamming ways...

And nothing has been worked out. If you need to, just ban us both like you promised Tyler...before some other poor sap gets the shaft.

So what is the deal??? He is trying to sell shit in someones wanted Post??? Something about a cheap banshee.....