FireHead

No offense, but that dyno you were running on is a piece of shit inertia dyno. I wouldn't trust any numbers that come off it. You could use it to jet your bike under load, but thats about it.

Remington 11-87's are very good guns but are very heavy for what they are. Stay away from mono-chokes on anything, screw-in chokes are the way to go. The best value is always found in a used gun. If you want to buy new, then get a pair of Remington 870 Express's from Walmart. You cant go wrong with them, they come in 12 and 20, 28,26,24 inchbarrels, can't break them, and they're light.

I used Cascade hangers and their clamps made specifically for the CPI's. I would recommend cutting the stock pipe bumpers off of the frame. In addition make sure you have new o-rings in the pipes and new springs. FMF sell a very nice kit for that has the o-rings and springs in it.

I heard every 2006 Banshee was going to come with a free hooker. To comment on the two stroke ban, two stroke will still be able to be mass "keyword" produced and sold in the U.S. if they are fuel injected or have the previously mentioned toxin tampon.

Matt Shearer will make a pipe for anything you want to do with a Banshee. The pipes typically known as "Shearers" are drag pipes and they are really snappy in the high rpm range. They are fabulous pipes though and are very hard to beat in the in-frame drag pipe realm.

Give me a grand to dump into an '85-'86 ATC 250R or Tecate 3 and I would be willing to bet they would hand most 350 Banshees their asses, to borrow a phrase. Of course this is taking into account that I do all of my own work including the porting.

There are a whole lot of people in this thread who forgot to take their medication.

You better have killed that rabbit to eat it, otherwise its seriously not cool.

Yes, I had run a leakdown test. Banshetta was right when he said my choke wasn't working. I had it apart for the millionth time last nite and found a tear in the choke plunger that I must have missed before. This would have been causing an air leak with the choke on, therefore netting the no increase in fuel to the A/F mix. I'm pretty sure its fine now, I just have to jet it properly. Thanks alot for all of the help.

Theoretically what will happen is that the combustion chambers will not scavenge without the pipes. Therefore the engine will rin horribly or not at all. You also risk burning the exhaust side of the piston due to rapidly heating and cooling it. However you would certainly not be lean since you would not be pulling enough air through the motor, due to the lack of scavenging.

Basically the things you are asking are case specific. You can essentially run as high of compression as you want. The carbs needs to be able to flow about twice as much air and fuel as a stock setup, compared to a stock gas set up. Some sort of aftermarket ignition is also a must, be it a PVL, Dynatek, or MSD, etc. To add to a previous post, the reason you purge alcohol systems when they sit is not because it messes anything up, its because it absorbs a alot of moisture out of the air and yields itself impotent after a very short period of time.

I always shake my bikes around before I start them. Ido this partially to mix the gas and partially on accident because I am a big, fat bastard. I have gone through about three different tanks of gas trying to get the carbs to work. If I were to purchase other carburetors, what would you guys reccomend?

There was an rz250 or rd250. It was an earlier air-cooled version of the 350.

Shrink wrap it and send it UPS of FedEX. Easy cheesy.

Me too!

This motor does have a good drag port job. However I kind of like these carbs if I can get them to work. I am running Castor 927 mixed at 32.5:1.

The idea of using the s[rocket as the rotar has been around since the invention of chain driven bicycles. Is is usucally a very light and effiecient way to do things. Where it becomes a problem is is you have chain the requires alot of lubrication, such as in an offroad application. On a semi-separate subject, I am going to have to agree with therail in that Polaris blows a big, floppy, donkey dick.

I have blown the crap out of the carbs numerous times. I will have to find somebody who has an extra set of carbs. I may just buy another set. If I were to buy another set what would you recommend?

The damn thing still does not cold start even with the 35 pilots in it, but once its warm it starts on the first kick every time. I changed the domes in the head out so now I have about 190 psi across both cylinders. Would getting a larger jet to replace the jet in the choke circuit be a good idea? I am basically out of ideas.

I have never had a problem with him and I have bought all kinds of crap from him.

That stuff is really popular with those of us who run on alky or methonal as the fumes from these fuels burn your eyes, nose, and mouth. The fuel flavor stuff is pretty coo. They need to make it in a beer flavor though.

'Round these parts we call tire chains jewelry. I can hook you up with a set off one of our test trucks.

I have one up on eBay right now. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...me=STRK:MESE:IT

I'm sure I can tell you exactly what the motor is if you can get apicture of it. As for the wiring with the I-6, what do you need to know?

The slides are in properly. You have to remember that this thing runs properly if you use starting fluid. According yo my exhaust gas analyzer, I have everything set about right (13.5 A/F), except it doesn't want to read accurately at idle. My guess is that I need 32.5 or 35 pilot jets (the jet sizes that aren't available locally). I honestly do not think that there is enough done to the motor to require it. The other thing that I can think of is that I may need to drill out the choke jet a tiny bit.