FireHead

The people who work there have no idea what they have. Nothing has prices on it except for large items. It's all sold in bulk or by weight (example: endmills are $2 per pound). The bolts are in their floor sweeping bins where its sold in the same manner. They may not have Ti material that is sold outright as such since it has become a listed material in North America and the EU. :thumbsup:

I like to use mine as something to practice "the shocker" on.

Once upon a time I heard about some aftermarket Banshee swingarms using 250R skid plates, but I don't remember the aftermarket company that was doing it, nor do I remember for sure that it was a 250R plate they used.

What kind of dyno are you going to be running it on (chassis/motor; brand, absorber type)? If it is a Dynojet inertia bake dyno then I guess that your will make any wgere from -12hp - Eleventy Billion hp.

I suppose that there is a good chance that you may have a bad needle valve on the side that has gas coming out of it. Of course, you usually get fuel dumping out the vent tubes as well. :thumbsup:

The more squared off trailer appears to be made by Carson. :thumbsup:

If they are PD domes they will be ingraved with their size on the coolant side of the domes. I think the Noss domes are the same as well. However, it seems like everyone "custom" makes domes these days and I am sure there are folks out there that don't go to the trouble of engraving the back side of the dome. The syringe idea will work if the domes are fairly normal, but it will not work if they are cut for a long rod or stroke crankshaft. The way we check competitors heads at work is by making a silicone or foam cast of the chamber with the spark plug(s), valves, and what ever else installed on the block with the piston at TDC, then you pull the cast off, put it in a graduated cylinder full of water and see how much water it displaces. That was the longest run-on sentence ever...............I'm out. :thumbsup:

That thing is pretty ate up. I would not run it because the chamber is either larger or smaller than it is supposed to be. I cannot tell if that is pitting or compacted metal. :thumbsup:

If you do a search on the topic you ought to find waht you are looking for. There have been several threads about this. Maybe you could post your search results here when you're done? :thumbsup:

The Carson trailer with the squared off sides looks to be built a little more ruggedly, but the trailer with the cpot for the tool box looks like it may have a few more useful feature (besides looking sexier). Do you need heavy duty or can you get buy with lighter duty and a little more cool factor?

It appears that the question asker and the picture poster are different folks.................

http://www.boeing.com/assocproducts/surplu...enterprise.html Check it out and see if there is one near you. I have been to the SoCal and Washington stores. Washington is my favorite, as there tends to be alot more CNC tooling and billets of metal. :thumbsup:

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry637029 This is the end all thread for the AV gas vs. race gas dillema. I couldn't find it earlier and some one finally dug it up. :thumbsup:

Damn it! :shoothead: This was the thread I was looking to reference in response to the rash of AV gas questions that have been popping up lately and I couldn't find it for the life of me.

I guess he must have changed the auction? However, I will take issue with dirt and grime around the bolts and bearings that indicate the "new" condition. :shoothead:

You may get an answer faster by emailing Sudco or posting this question over on PlanetSand. I say this because you need to have access to a Keihin catalog to decipher the serial number that you posted. Sudco is a huge distributor of Keihin products and there is a higher density of ATV parts retailers on PlanetSand. We know that they are Keihin PJ series carbs. I also would guess that they are 34mm based on the fact that you probably would experience rideability issues with your engine setup and larger carbs. Since you didn't mention anything like that I am assuming the bike runs ok. As for the 421 Cub, You probably need to master what you already have before moving up to something that couls potentially make twice as much horsepower compared to what you have now. To answer your other question: you can install the Cub cylinders your self very easily if you have access to a good set of metric automotive oriented tools and posess reasonable mechanical aptitude. :thumbsup:

B2B = Bead to Bead It basiscally means that it is buffed all the way from bead to bead as opposed to just on the crown of the tire like a normal Hauler paddle tire is. Bead to bead tires are lighter and tend to be more expensive. They have to be ordered from Skat Trak directly or through a sand tire specialty shop. They are porbably best suited for drag racing as the tire carcass durability obviously goes down with an increase in material removal. You may also hear of doubl;e and triple buff which refers to how many passes were made over the carcass in the buffed area. :thumbsup:

I run the same thing except with an 8" diameter wheel. :thumbsup:

I think it was mentioned in the other thread about this linkage. If I recall it was about $1300, but that all depends on what model of ashock you choose. :thumbsup:

No, I will have to try it. There are something like 50 different scents available and it is going to take me along time to work my way through all of them. The bubble gum is the only one that I have smeeled for far that I didn't like. :thumbsup:

If you want it done right I think you're screwed anmd are going to have to strip the thing down. If the guy painted over dirt and such then the pressure washer might work. You could also try wiping it down with a rag soaked with paint stripper. :thumbsup:

This is the same thing they did a few years ago when they ran a festure on the new Bombardier ATV that doubled as a personal watercraft. El retardo is you ask me, :shoothead:

Yeah, I was just amazed how well it masked the fumes. It's too bad they don't sell a pre-scented fuel that would be credible to use at my work. Some of the lat nights when is humid outside can be torture if you are near our dyno's whether you are inside the building or outside the building. :thumbsup:

Yeah! That's awesome. Thanks for posting the pictures. :thumbsup:

Sorry, I should have explained this a bit better. You can do 99% of the bike with Ti fasteners from Boeing surplus, but there is a catch. The reason I said you need to take a set of thread gauges and a pair of calipers with you is that you are going to have to go there and sift through large commodity bins of floor sweepings. They sell you basically the equivalent of a gallon milk jusg of floor sweepings for between $5 and $20. You get to dip in the bin and fill your own container and they don't really care how long it takes you to do that, so you can basically sit there with others that seem to be doing the same thing and fill your bucket up with the best fasteners or exactly what you are looking for. It's sort of funny that there a bunch of guys that know the schedule of when Boeing puts new stuff out and they show up there really early to get first pickings. Having a rough list of the sizes of fasteners you need obviously will help. The premise behind Boeing selling it's floor sweepings is that it costs them more money to have a work go find a bolt he dropped from the top of a plane than it is just to grab another one out of the box. At the end of the day, they sweep the floor, dump it in a bin, and then sell it at their surplus outlets. You find all sorts of fasteners, tools, brackets, wiring terminals, rivets, dirt, etc.