FireHead

The other part of the equation way have to to with you gas cap. The stock caps and some of the cheaper aftermarket caps do not relieve the negative pressure fast enough and thus limit the vlow of gas out of the tank. :thumbsup:

That sucks. :verymad:

That sounds like the case. I have never heard of anyone besides some of the drag races making custom spindles and even they, they are rarely a different geometry. :thumbsup:

No, no you could potentially have other problems than what you stated. The likely hood of you needing special spindles is near 0%. The upper a-arms could certainly be incorrect, but so could the lower a-arms. That's why I was asking if you were sure the arms are for Banshee, there are several other arms for different bikes that look like they might fit and may even bolt up ok. It is not impossible to bolt up the arms qrong if you are creative and properly motivated. :thumbsup:

I am not sure anyone would on this forum would give you $200 for them. I would think that you might get something more like $75 on here. Your best bet is to unload them on eBay where you might atleat get $150 if they are in great shape. :thumbsup:

She could have been abducted by a moose?

That and the general population is probably too retarded to replace a shock shaft. Liability is a bitch.

It's pretty obvious that it wont come out even, past that working it out in my head isn't worth my time. I am still waiting to hear wtf year 7 math is. I am thinking it might be where Canadian males have to get naked to count to 21. :yelrotflmao:

Do you have the upper and lower a-arms switched? Are you sure the arms are for a Banshee?

I'm pretty sure no one will sell you just a shock shaft for many reasons. Your best bet is buying another set of shocks off of someone on here or eBay.

You have to use their shock with the linkage and it increase travel without changing the ride height much. It really doesn't lower it. If you want to lower the back then you either need a different shock or a different length spring as long as you are lowering the bike just a little bit. :thumbsup:

The reason I asked about the bearing style was because if it was a hydrodynamic wedge style bearing, it doesn't make a bit of difference what the surface treatment of the cam or head is. The only time the parts ever touch is when the engine is not running a briefly at startup. :thumbsup:

I agree to the point that I am pretty sure that is what happened. :thumbsup:

Did you wind up getting rid of the tickets?

To pick up where BIgRed left off............91, won't come out to an even number, and 5800. By the way, wtf is year 7 mathematics?

I am not going to recommend taking a flame based heat directly to the bearing. I would just assume that a press was used to install the bearing, or put liquid nitrogen on the crankshaft, beofre you resorted to heating the bearing. The 200 degree F temp at which to heat the bearing to is b.s. as the CTE of the material does nmot allow for a for any measureable expansion at that temperature. If the bearing was made of aluminum, then you might be a little closer to being accurate. :thumbsup:

What I was really looking for was a pick of an assembled bike with that frame. There are a couple parts of the frame that I am not sure that I like, but they may look different with an engine and bodywork. :thumbsup:

Temperature differential is almost always the best way to assemble an interference fit. If you can isolate the heat to the the part of the bearingeffecting the fit than fine, but it can't be done in may situations. If the bearing happen to be sealed or have the bearings controlled by a plastic cage, then you are hurting the bearing by heating it. The way to get around all of this is by heating or cooling the part the bearing is going on so that you don't have to do anything to the bearing. :thumbsup:

No worries about disagreeing with me. I am wrong alot. My problem with putting RTV on an o-ring seal is that the groove for the ring is specifically sized for the compression of that ring. Putting RTV on it will prevent it from sealing properly. With that siad if the o-ring groove was sized by just grabbing what ever endmill looked close from the drawer, then RTV might be doing it a favor. Back to the boots, I still don't think you need RTV, put some grease on the sealing face if you are really worried about it. :thumbsup:

I grew up outside of Auburn, WA and Kasey grew up in Enumclaw, WA. One of the other guys that used to run around with us is Jeff Barkshire, who has been tearing it up in the NASCAR West Coat Series. He'll be in a truck within the next couple of years. I probably won't be able to make the Texas race this year, it seems to me that I have something else going that weekend. Sandshots, I have no idea about the standing of any of those series, just to warn you. I don't really follow the teams or the drivers unless I have to. I do follow the technical stuff though. ooops invocation time.............gotta go.

They make a universal kit for pretty much any silencer. The kit consists of two screens and two stickers. :thumbsup:

Like a Robin's egg?

I used to to do the womens nylon thing under my Outerwears. One day I put one of my filters on the flow bench with that setup on it and then without the nylons and there was something like a 100 CFM difference. It's probably not a big deal as most filters have more than enough air lofw capacity to accomodate most people's motors, but I didn't like it so I stopped doing that. :thumbsup:

You would be better off trying to come up with a set Pro Circuit silencers with spark arrestors already in them. Iknow they made them at one point, but I am not sure if they do any more. If that doesn't work than there is always the Cobra clamp on spark arrestors or Alba's do it yourself spark arrestor kit. :thumbsup:

You shouldn't need to put anything in there, The boots have around ring feature on the face that seal it up when it's compressed. I believe that the rubber boots for the Boss manifold are a standard Mikuni part. :thumbsup: