FireHead

Email DG or AC. They will have them you just have to ask. Could you get a larger picture in your signature?

You might want to double check that figure as I think they lowered to 89db and had plans to lower it to 87db. I could be wrong, Haven't been there is several years, :thumbsup:

That made me laugh out loud :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I don't do as much of it as I used to, but I mostly do 5 axis mills, 7 axis mill/turns, and a program for a lathe every now and again. The mills are made by Deckel Maho and Makino. The lathes are Gildemeister and the mill/turns are WFL's. We are switching out alot of the DMG equipment for Mazak's as they depreciate as they haven't been the most reliable machines. In fact I thinks it has been a few months since I have written a program for any thing other than a personal project. :wink:

Those are both good guys. Cascade is just as good. It's a toss up if you ask me. :thumbsup:

I am pretty sure this is the third or fourth thread about this. :shoothead: I heard that new double ended dildo also nibbles on your nutsack while you use it. Can any one confirm that or have spie photos of it?

Your right. I just have discovered that an engineering bachelors degree and an MBA seems to be the winning combo these days. :thumbsup:

Shut up! (beat loco to it) :biggrin:

Yeah you have to have silencers on them. 87db is the limit. :thumbsup:

I think I answered this in the other thread a minute ago. :thumbsup:

+2+2 with the stock steering stem is not going to happen. The sttering arm will cross the plane of the lower a-arm. :thumbsup:

I couldn't find what the OEM camber setting is. Probably because it's non-adjustable from the factory. Here's what I would do: For trail riding I would set it a 0 degrees. For MX racing and general fooling around I would put it between 3 and 4 degrees. For the sand I would put it back even further to 6 or 7 degrees. (This all assuming that you have a stock to +4 swing arm. If you have something other than that, you may have to fool around with it to get it where you like it.)

That's interesting. Thanks for posting up the picture. :thumbsup:

There is a big difference between bad typing that results in speeling and what ever happened to create weales. Past that, I would like to make the excuse for my typing by telling you that I was driving an offroad race car when it flipped over at 50mph bringing the 1000 lbs. car's roll cage halo across my right hand and the ground. Needles to say there is a lot of titanium in my hand now and it really does not have any effect on my typing skills, but the two scars on the back of my hand left by the operation to repair it certainly look like it should. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Ahha, I didn't see that. :thumbsup: If that doesn't work than you may want to check and see if those lower arms are correct for a Banshee. Those are the most radically angled forward arms that I have seen for a Banshee if they are correct. :thumbsup:

Good Deal, Unless somebody has a different idea, I think I will go with that plan. Thank you very much. :thumbsup:

I think they use the stock bushings, but I am not positive. Fire off an email to LSR and Iam sure they can tell you. If all else fails, order the bushings straight from LSR. :thumbsup:

Better pictures of the exact problem would help. Past that, I think you have the lower a-arms switched on the wrong sides.

http://students.sae.org/competitions/formulaseries/ FSAE = Formula SAE If y'all get on the Baja team and I can be of any service to your team, let me know. I help out my the team from the school I got my BS from quite a bit. Several of the guys I work with like lending a hand with that stuff as well. Quite a few of the folks at my work including myself participate as judges at the competitions and speak at some of the SAE motorsport conferences. Like I said before, it's great opportunity to learn the practical and hands on side of engineering. Based on that my company won't even talk to a job applicant unless they have been involves in Mini Baja or FSAE. When it comes time you to graduate, give me a shout and let me know what sort of job you are looking for. From talking to you on here, I have a pretty good feeling about you, and i am pretty sure I could place you somewhere in my industry. :thumbsup:

They are definitely not home made. Judging by the picture, the quality looks to be ok, so I wouldn't worry about using these particular arms because you don't know who made them. In any other case, it is definitely something to consider though. :thumbsup:

Yeah you have the camber measurement technique correct. I single rib, front sand tires makes this process really easy. Otherwise you have to measure for the par part of a tread block or somthing like that. I wind up forgetting what part of the tread I was mearing from when I switch from top to bottom or side to side, but that problem could certainly be alleviated by marking the tire with chalk. Caster is adjusted with the two inner heims on the upper a-arm. I don't know off the top of my head what the setting is supposed to be. 4.5 degrees sounds like a good number, but like I said, I am not sure. Maybe one of these other guys know. Let me know if you want me to try and find the OEM figure. You want to do your best to mirror what you do on what side with the other. You have to be careful if you are doing this by counting threads on heims as frame and a-arm manufacturing variances can make this methid not as accurate as you might like, thus sticking to the tape measre and/or angle gauge is always best (common sense comes in handy as well. :thumbsup:

The TrailTech lights are great and so is RMATV. I have also run Lazer Star lights with great success. The Trail Tech and Lazer Star lights are just as good as each other IMO. :thumbsup:

I agree. Well put. :thumbsup:

I didn't catch that apparently. I must be stupid. I knew I shouldn't have dropped out of highschool and started smoking crack. ::

I did say $10k in used condition. The dyno and DA system probably cost someone $25k new. You can aquire data from a inertia brake dyno and all you'll have is a record that you accelerated the brake differently every time. An inertia brake dyno is only as good as the constant of accleration number that it put in the software. There is no way to calibrate the dyno. I don't care if it puts out lower figures or higher figures than other dynos, since the figures an inertia brake dyno puts out have no meaning other than they are compared to other figures that came from that specific dyno. Wtf are you talking about in regards to brake dynamometers? It makes no sense. Dynamometers fall into 5 general categories: 1.) Inertia brake (flywheel) 2.) Friction brake (rotary clutch pack in an oil bath) 3.) Dynamic brake (water brake or eddy current) 4.) Hybrid (Combination of a a dynamic brake and AC motor) 5.) AC An eddy curent or water brake dyno from Land & Sea run about $40k-$50k new to you door. That's not all that expensive and I know several people that have them at their houses. It's really the differnce between a toy and a tool. An analogy might be a Bob the Builder tool kit versus some you would buy off of the Snap-On truck.