FireHead

The cylinder pressure at whiich you need to start running race gas is a really grey area. Different oils will increase the octane rating of a fuel more than others while cooling systems may be less efficient than others. Both of these things contribute to an engines propensity to detonate. The reality is that if you are anywhere near 150-170 psi you need to see try running the lowest octane gas you can that will not allow the engine to detonate. This means some experimentation is probably in order. :thumbsup:

He may interpret that as being some sort of compliment?

I am going to guess the size:............................12?

Now that's funny. I think I may have pooed a little from laughing so hard. :yelrotflmao:

Can we trade out the term "supercharging effect" for "cylinder scavenging"? It would make me alot happier.

CottonEyedJoe is the BansheeHQ resident master of MSPaint. Some of his works of art that people may recognize are, as mentioned before, the dyno chart, as well as the corn fed harvest mouse. I am pretty sure I have always attempted to call you by your chosen name (my poor typing aside). I think at this point everyone was just wondering what the bike did on the dyno. I personally did not have any power expectations. :thumbsup:

With all that has been said on this topic in this thread (some of it by me), the reality for me is that if I am going to put a two stroke motorcycle, ATV, snowmobile, jetski motor togther, I am going to put Wiseco forged pistons in it without giving it any thought. The caveat here is that I either do my own machine work or have it done by someone who I can visually confirm knows what they are doing and can do the work properly. A four stroke would be a bit different scenario as there or more available vendors out there besides Wiseco (JE, CP, Mahle, etc.) that offer a variety of different piston designs for different applications. In that case, they are all good company's and I am probably going to use whatever piston somebody is going to give me for free as long as it fits my application. I would be interested in what Jeff or one of the other folks has to say on this topic as well. :thumbsup:

I think I am goin to agree with you on those points assuming stock cylinders are invovlved. I feel that alot of people that have opinions on piston construction have been the victim of poor machine work and practices for better or worse. It's not just on this site, or with just motorcycle engines, it's everywhere. :thumbsup:

Do you have a bench vice or a hydraulic bottle jack?

I think I assumed we were talking about a truck. If it's for an ATV then RMATV all the way. :thumbsup:

I am rather pissed at myself that I didn't ever save one of CottonEyed Joe's custom dyno charts..................... :verymad:

No heat + die grinder. Thank you, drive through. :thumbsup:

I think ojcool may have gone away. :sweat:

................smarty pants. :biggrin:

http://www.teamracersedge.com/yamaha-banshee.htm Basically the only thing DASA is good for with respect to a Banshee is the Bore vs. Stroke Displacement chart. :thumbsup:

Do a search on this website. :thumbsup:

4 Wheel Parts Wholsalers :thumbsup:

Do a search on the subject on this site. You will learn more than you ever want to know about it. :thumbsup:

I would like to reiterate that if you had Jethro (or Billy-Bob) from the local machine shop bore your cylinders with his worn out boring bar on a drill press, then whatever result you had with whatever piston brand you purchased probably doesn't count towards a valid opinion.

I have $100 for anyone who foils any attempt to bring a bag of dicks anywhere near me. :yucky:

Definition: a device that is designed to aid in the transportation of large quantities of dick. On a different note, I replied to a PM or two form someone inthis thread with an intlelligent response to the question at hand. I apparently didn't save the PM's, so if the person that I sent them to would like to post what I wrote, feel free (I am too lazy to retype it). :thumbsup:

The inboard upper a-arm bolt could wind up being a pain in the ass. It is more than likely deformed a little bit. You will probably wind up having to find a way to drive it out with a hammer or figure out a way to cut the bolt head off and drive it out the other direction.

God dammit, I hope this guy is not retarded...................................

Ahha, I guess that makes sense. :thumbsup:

Without starting a pissing match, I would like to point out that the diagram of how the Scary Fast product works, is simply false. What is depicted there is generally not possible and it violates several laws of aerodynamics. Past that I fell that this product falls into the same category as driving with your tailgate down on your truck to improve fuel mileage as well as with the cyclone (not sure if that is the correct trade name) product that you are supposed to stick in your intake tract to improve power and fuel mileage. :shoothead: