FireHead

Ok, let's do this, you measure from the center of your swingarm bolt to the center of your rear axle, and I will do the rest. I am assuming your shock and linkage are still in the stock location. It would also hellp me to know rider weight, a guestimate of the weight of the rear of your bike (if you put scales under each rear wheel) and what sort of riding you are doing. I suppose without the background knowledge, the triangle is the only thing simple about the trigonometry. I some times leave out stuff when I am posting via my Blackberry. :geek:

Ahh yes, James Lucky ATV. I have ordered many a thing from them. I should have known they sold the chain tensioners. ...............and for the person who asked why I refuse to deal with RDZ: Rob is a tool. He lies, makes stuff up and tries to pass it off as fact based on his own fabricated reputation, and he is generally unreliable at best. He also has the maturity or a 12 year old. :ohmy:

It's a funky spring clip. You can either cut it if you have a new one on hand or go nuts with a couple pairs of needle nose pliers.

Skat Trak or RMATV is where I get mine from. :geek:

OEM Ball joints are not replaceable. You have to buy an entire arm as a replacement. :thumbsup:

eGay? :ermm:

Figuring that out is pretty simple trigonmetry. All you have to do is make a triangle and figure out what the motion ratio of your axle vs. Your shock is (how much the shock moves compared to your axle in a suspension cycle. As I madly finger my Bloackberry trying to reply to this, I am reminded of a web page I found that calculated it for you. Google atv and spring rate or suspension rate and you should be able to find it. If not, I will work out answer for you when I get home tonight.

I agree with the fact that preload adjustments are used to adjust sag and ride height. However, in no way does preload effect the ability of a suspension system to carry load. You can adjust how the bike sits statically with a fat person on it, but that suspension will perform the same as it did if you had not adjusted the preload for the fat guy. Force, direction, friction, and kinetics will all stay the same. Beyond that, when you indezx the spring lower on the shock body, you are esentially minimizing down travel of the suspension. Also, cranking down the preload beyond a certain point binds the coils of the spring. If adjusted too far, the coil windings will compress together and bind before the shock gets near the rubber bump. stop on the shock shaft.

Word. Out of curiousity, exactly how loose is a goose? :ermm:

I hit the caps lock button.

Spring rate is the term that would be used when talking about your springs load carrying capacity. Obviously the OEM spring is progressively wound which mean that the spring rate varies during shock travel, but when specifying an aftermarket spring, they are generally defined buy an overall spring rate. I believe the OEM spring is 325lbs./in I am probably worng about that the more that i think about it. The largest Eibach srping you can put on an OEM shock without buying adapting collars is 475lbs./in. :geek:

I would still like to make sure that it is understood that adjusting preload on the shock does not increase the shocks ability to carry load. All it does is raise the bike frame higher off of the ground. Since a coil spring is basically just a funky torsion spring, the more you compress the spring upon itself, the more the coils bind. The spring may seem stiffer when you crank the preload down, but really all you are doing is compressing it so that the lighter progressive windings are bound and taken out of the working range of the shock, thus limiting your suspension travel. To be a biot sensational, you might as well just take the shock off and bolt in a solid bar in it's place if you are increasing spring preload to compensate for a longer swingarm or heavier rider. :geek:

Those guys are also known as being fairly crappy in the Spuerbike/MotoGP racing industry.

............one of them has huge pipes, gosh, what do you think they are. (typed with my best Napolean Dynomite voice)

Ok, I lied. I did spell check the word. I spelled it right. I am the king of everything!

I think the red tank covers not matching the frame might not look good, but I am not worth much when it comes to aesthetics (I am not going to spell check that word).

Just to add fuel to the fire here: whoever told several of you that cranking down the preload on the shock stiffens it, it more retarded than you guys are. Preload is a ride height adjustment only (read: indexes spring to shock) unless you figure out a way to bind some coils up while you are doing it, then you have not changed the spring rate (the springs resistance to load). I am assuming someone will argue with me about this....................

Shaving weight off = reasonable Balancing = you got ripped off Trueing and welding = sensible FYI: Those guys are over priced and under reputed. (Which is the case for most U.S. crankshaft companies. Well, that or they, are sensibly priced and over bullshitted and under quality.)

First off, a Banshee crank is a 180 degree firing twin. WTF are you going to do with bob weights? Second of all, as long as the crank is actually true and parallel, then it's balance does not matter. All this refers to a two cylinder Banshee engine. :geek:

Where did you get your tensioner from? I only know of the RDZ ones being commercially available and I refuse to give them any money and I am too lazy to make one myself. :geek:

Find someone on the internet who has a crap load of pictures of their bike posted up, then interpret a diagram from them. That is what I do when I can't figure out stuff like that. I have done it with a Banshee enough you would think I would know where everything goes by now. A Clymer manual also has alot of pictures in it.

My drag axle is set up with love and sunshine. I don't know about anyone else's. :ermm:

JB Weld on the splines assemble wet, then let it dry. You probably won't find much of a longer term fix. If you want to disassemble it, heat the part up with a torch, diassemble, clean, lather, rinse, repeat. After doing that a few times you will replace the worn parts because you will have realized doing all that is gets gay really quick.

That's interesting. That wasn't what I was thinking of. I am not sure I have seen that before. Do have any pictures of something you used them on? :geek:

I was reading a copy of this months Diesel Power magazine that one of my techs had at work. There was a really well written article on after products and their return on investment when it comes to fuel mileage. They had a matrix specific parts and products. I was impressed to a certain extent. Normally I don't expect to see that sort of detail in a magazine that undoubtably makes most of it's money from advertising aftermarket products. :geek: