Bansheeman1121

.80 over is the only down fall on this bike but the top end is not even broke in yet, so its got plenty of life left and i got one stock bore cyl that i will trade with it which means you would only need 1 more cyl to have it back to stock bore, anyway if the trade with the 02 dosnt work out let me no

Im in NE PA got a 97, motor is brand new from the crank shaft to all new gears in the tranny, got pipes, v force reeds,cool head the works, can get pics if your interested, but its really nice quad just painted the frame, put a brand new twist throttle on it, it flies you really gotta hold on to this thing.

I have similar deal not really talkin trash but all my niehbors comin around lookin all tough on there little hondas and 4 stroke yamahas raptors warroirs blasters 300ex u get it, well am 5 times the rider any of them are with the exteptoin of the raptor, my shee is 99.9 % finished just gotta wait to get it back from the dyno and im gonna roost all them, o yeah when u say ur shee is almost done whats left to do

Might as well, im runnin 20cc no advance timing at 1400 feet is 93/94 ok??

I wouldnt take a water hose to it, im just sayin this becuase i have no idea if you do not have the knowledge of taking the bottom end apart, try air but it might blow some of those chips where u dont want em,what i did is took a clean rag stuffed it in the bottom end and turned the motor over a few times and it cleaned a good bit of junk out of there, but the best thing is to take the bottom half apart and clean it out good, gl

Will sell for 35 or trade if you have any extra sprockets or rear chain guides layin around

Power mods id go with PT mids, v force reeds, smaller gearing,and a cool head with some 20 to 21 cc domes and you should have lots of low and mid

Im running 20cc domes as a change from 21cc domes, Im at about 1400 feet will i need to mix in some ocane boost or can i run 93/94 pump?? I do not have advance timing

If it wont start with gas in the plug holes then sounds to me like eletrical issue, maybe weak spark or somthing of that nature.. Did you clean the bottom end up good and check the seals O yeah and as mentoined above THE CHOKE TUBE that goes beetween the carbs, if your used to single cyls you may have very well forgotton about this important piece of rubber, it connects both carbs goes in beetween them theres a spot for it right in the middle of both carbs

If you decide to part the motor i am interested in the cylinders, what kind of port work is done to it

Anyone this things good for a core

I mean for not being rockets or cpis or drag pipes, ther have a really nice mid hit that lasts all the way to the top of 6th gear, and when i journey into the woods they get me up and over everything wihout to much clutch work

After i put my she back together i had no spark, so i checked up front and those 2 little wires that connect to the coil, i had the orange and black ones mixed up, kicked it over after switching them and it fired right up.

The left rod of the crank has alot of play the bearing is shot, but other than that looks good, anyone interested make offer or name somthing you got layin around and ill consider a trade, any parts from the drive train, like parts that bolt to the frame to guide the chain and such, thanx

Where is this screw locaed at and how do i accsess it??

And i dont mean i have alot of money.....Ok plug is oily and dark, at idle it just loads up so bad you cant clear it up until you shift to at least 3rd gear and pin it, you dont get that crisp rev you get a sound like its chokin on oil..just get a spit and sputter in 1st and second until you start gettin powerband from 3rd to 6th, these are 30mm carbs what should i adjust mains, needle, air feul screw, pilot what needs to be done thanx

Took my banshee down the road for the 1st time in 5 months after rebulding the entire thing and what the hell do you no after pulling in the cl;utch to stop at a stop sign i notice the thing sill wanting to move and the clutch cble just goes in and out no with no resistence, figure no big deal the cble poped off,thought wrong the god dam thing on the case moves but dont gran anything, i didnt her any wierd noises didnt pop just bam somthings fucked up, any idea what this latest mess could be and what it could invlovle parts and money wise??

OOps my bad thanx guys, everythings straight thanx again

If the plug was anything but white, or grey your not burning up, until i just redid about everything on my shee one side always smoked diffrent

Ok i got a noss cool head with some 20cc domes, domes are brand new bottom plate of the head is brand new orings new the only part of the head that isnt new is the main peice, the coolent keeps filling by the nuts on the top of the head so its apears to be comin from the 4 nuts located in the middle of the head anyone ever have this problem, i already got a fix from dl noss but just wonderin if anyone else has seen this with any type of coolehead

Im running amsoil synthetic 4 stroke 10w 40 in my gear case and it it looks a little grey in color im not positive but there may be some coolent mixing with it?? How bad is this and what can the cuases be

If your used to riding with aftermarket pipes you wont have a problem buring your leg,youll probably get burned once or twice but like anything else youll learn to work around them,as i hear power gains are really good, lots of mid and top and im sure if theres ever a tough spot on a trail 1st gear will still get you up and over it, O and get a NOSS head with some smaller domes..

Thanx I had old pro circuit silencers layin around so i cut the core down to fit the toomeys, hope it works good

It will work well

one more question to add the small hose that has the "t" thing on it,right now i have it hooked the the bottom of the coolent resivor bottle, connecting to the bottom of the "t" in the line i have the small radiator hose which comes from the water pump hooked on and then i have no idea where to connect the other piece that goes tords the front of the bike, Im doing my best to explain this thanx for any input