BrianEb

That would be freak'n awesome. But I have a fab questions, besides Lonestar is there anybody making Banshee frames out of chromoly steel tubing. Because the mild steel used in a Banshee Frame blow badly. I already broke off a clamp where the stinger pipe bolts to the frame. It reminds me of the old Team Murray BMX frames back in the day, when Kmarts wre still around

Does Fast Racing have a website? Also what do you guys think about the Faast Racing Handle Bars? Does anyone ride with them?

So everybody here says, use a tig thanks I appreciate it. The reason why I said stick welder is because thats what I can borrow right off get. The part that needs welding is the gusset that the main frame and the sub frame come together. The gusset also hase a hole drilled through it, that a bolt goes through for your middle set of Toomey Pipe Hangers. Well it seem to have snap off. I was panicing for a minute but some permatex epoxy should fix. yes clarke is a welder and a candy bar and a fork lift bitches.

If you had to use a Clarke stick welder to make a repair, what setting would you use with 3/32nd rod.

Can you get some low end torque by adding a Pro Design or Ricky Stator Timing Plate? Also I assume you'll have to rejet.

Thanks for your input everyone I see things more clearly now.

If you have a +1 A-Arms up front would a general rule of thumb be to run a -2 swing arm in back? or a -1 or keep it stock length? I do some jumping on local neighborhood tracks and such also run on some pretty fast trails up north in MI. Looking for some suggestions.

Yeah I;m using the Dynojet needles If you don't start on the blunt end the clip is on the 3rd slot from the bottom I switched back to a #25 pilot last night and everthing seems to be alright 1.5 turns out from seated position on air screw

Trying to dial in my jetting here is my current set-up:

Does everyone here pretty much have a case splitter tool they use on their motors when they tear them down or do you let your mechanic split your cases. Just wondering if I should invest in the Motion Pro Case Split Tool it is like $200.00 peace

I just came back from the SandBox Mx Practice track in Michigan. I think it was a pretty cool track. Fun jumps ect. Just wondering if anybody has taken their Banshee to that track in Vassar Michigan. Went to Baja last year, but Baja doesn't let quads anymore on the track. The Sand Box is not to much farther than Baja.

Thanks for your help everyone. Yes I have a Clymer's Don't work on the Shee without it. But they show you how to dissassemble everything from the clutch push rod to the shift shaft I just wanted to know what was the absolute stuff I had to take off. Example do I have to loosen the clutch cable at the handle bars befor I start Would love to put o Hinson Clutch Cover on it after it is all said and done

Can anyone give me a detailed description of how to install a new clutch basket and shift star mod. this is what I know so-far Drain Coolant, Drain Oil, remove clutch cover, disconnect rear brake Mcyl. Remove Kick starter. But do you have to remove the clutch rod. where the clutch cable is connected?

I have a Durablue Axle, and just pruchased a Lone Star Disc Brake Hub for a Banshee. It should fit on the axle right. But I think it is a tick to small Anybody have this problem yet. My stock disc brake hub fits perfect what happen? Another $100.00 dropped on trinket That I'll have to send back. Don't you just love it when they screw you at the mail-order place.

Thank you for your help everyone.

I don't know if I ever notice this before. But after I removed my airbox and rejetted to a 320 Main, Moved the clip on the needle down one towards the richer side. I believe it is on the 4th groove if you start at the top of the needle. But after i've been riding there is smoke coming out of the exhaust ends is that normal or is something wrong.

So put the carb in a vise what size drill bit? Also I can't picture what part is angle pieces I have to grind

I want to do the TORS elim kit myself but don't want o F-Up my carbs when drilling or tapping can anyone give me any pointers and pitfalls on what to use

Have not heard anything about it. Let me know if you like it. Says it includes a Yamaha service manual also. It might be to good to be true. But I'm a skeptic that way.

Saving for them as we speak still running Dunlop's Heard they are more grippier and don't wear as much. But who knows

Thanks for replying I know I kind of jumped in on this discussion. But I have the modded shift star the PE Clutch Basket and new dirt digger clutch in my garage just waiting to be installed. Wanted to wait until I got these items so I did not have to open the clutch over again and again.

Where do you put the rubber disks at? Just curious I also have a aftermarket clutch basket, just have not mess with that project yet it's a PE Clutch basket.

I live in Michigan and I decided on the Vito's Hemi Head, because they are a Michigan based company and specilize in 2-strokes. I had to change out the studs, but that was no big deal. Then install the new studs and checked the compression, checked for leaks It all good. It all come down to personal preference.

Call Vito's there studs are the same lenght as the Pro Design. out

Who has the contact info on Jeff and his engine work in Michigan. Because I live in Michigan. So say yes to Michigan. Peace.