BrianEb

Okay so were riding in the field the bike was riding fine. Then I heard like tapping on metal and I dont think its the reeds because the spark plug gap was close shut on the right spark plug because I think it was hitting the piston Attached is a photo of the right side of the spark plug I searched the forums and did not see a topic on this

you might be on to something this project has been about a year or more in the making It all started when I bought the shift star, then it was the Shift -Pro mechanism by Tudor Performance, Clutch Dis. Adj. by Cascade, a Performance Eng. Clutch Basket, Dirt Digger Clutch plates, the Hinson Pressure Plate & finally the Direct Drive Lockout system. it took over a year or more to aquire most of these parts. So if Hinson made changes to there pressure plate I might have an older model thanks again everyone in the Banshee community. peace

Thank you for the offer on the set screw. Gardener Westcott a place here in Michigan will have the set screw But how did you get the Hinson pressure plate to work with the lockout? Did you have to modify it in anyway?

I just finish putting the Direct Drive Clutch cover on. And I put the Clutch Disengagment Adj. by Cascade Innovations On. Two different problems surfaced. A.) The Clutch Disengagment Adj. by Cascade Innovations works fine if you don't use a Hinson Pressure Plate. The work around for that problem is get a 1/4" longer 5/16" fine thread set screw. That is what I was told by Packard Enterprises would fix that problem. B.) The other problem with Hinson Pressure Plate is that the boss hole are to small for the fingers on the clutch lockout mechanism. But if you stick with the stock pressure plate everything is everything just so people are aware I thought I bring you this message Hinson, Direct Drive and Cascade all need to sit down together and get on the same page. But nobody gives a crap about the Banshee anymore

I would like to get a new swing arm set up Right now I have the So-Cal Fab +1 +2 A-arms up front but for the swing I don't know if I should stick with the stock length or a +1 or -1 length I live in Michigan never riddin the dunes, but ride on trails and this motorcross track called the Sandbox with jumps and stuff. please give me some suggestion

nobody wants to give up any info

nobody wants to give up any info

My friend just put a new Barnett Clutch on his Blaster got rid of the cushion rings has everything lined up like the Clymers says But can not get it into second the Clymers really doesn't go into clutch adj. all that much Any info would be real helpful

My friend just put a new Barnett Clutch on his Blaster got rid of the cushion rings has everything lined up like the Clymers says But can not get it into second the Clymers really doesn't go into clutch adj. all that much Any info would be real helpful

Welders were do you look for jigs to make Chassis, Swing Arms and A-Arms ect. Like in the Lonestar Catalog they show a frame in some sort of jig. Are those jigs custome made

Does any body use there Banshee for Jumping? If so do you the metal ramps? If you do lets see some pics of the ramps in action

Any MX Guys out there with this answer. or Pics Or should the Banshee be just for Bling and Dunes

Alot of the YFZ450 Guys can run dual steering stabilizers either by denton,Jansen ect. Or they run the Elka,Scott or Precision Steering Dampeners. Two questions is there any way to run a dual steering stabilizer on a Banshee. Or a way to run one of those Highend Steering Dampeners Any pics posted of someone doing this would be great. Once again the Banshee gets the shaft, Enless I'm wrong. Which would not be a surprise.

I been taking my shee to some local practice tracks here in MI. i.e. (Sandbox, and Pro Source indoor) Well the first year I went to Baja MX in Michigan and that track beat the Shit out of me with stock suspension. So I upgraded to SoCal +2 +1 arms and Elkas. My arms still took a little bit of a beating upgraded to the Faast Flex Bars. They seem to help trememdously. What should my next step be to help smooth out the Banshee ride. Here is what I have so far.

Does anybody have the new Boyesen Shock Out System? or Does anybody have the Fasst Handle Bars? I was riding around at this place in Michigan called the Sandbox. and I had tremendous arm pump. Could only do two laps. Arm pump sucks

I saw on Discovery Channel that the baracuda attack in the "Faces of Death" series was a hoax? I saw a baracuda in Mexico this summer snorkling and it scared the shit out of me. Because I had that image etched in my brain from that flick. Does anybody know if it really was a fake stage act for the Faces of Death

My bud had the same problem with his banshee. The problem is in the timing I believe and flywheel Your going to have to get some special tools to hold that flywheel from turning when you torque down the flywheel. 1st I would set your timing to (0) Torque the flywheel to spec. I think its about 75 or 80 ft. lb. (not sure about that,check Clmers manual) make sure you have not lost your woodruff key And try to kick it over and see if that works My bud had the same problem with his banshee. The problem is in the timing I believe and flywheel Your going to have to get some special tools to hold that flywheel from turning when you torque down the flywheel. 1st I would set your timing to (0) Torque the flywheel to spec. I think its about 75 or 80 ft. lb. (not sure about that,check Clmers manual) make sure you have not lost your woodruff key And try to kick it over and see if that works

The aluminum impellers are better because, the plastic impeller with fail you in the future. The plastic will melt or break before the alum. one will. Mark my words

It seems to not be spilling any more thanks everyone for helping. I appreciate it.

Here is my set-up and why

cool where do you drag it at? On the western side of the state?

I'll try and clean them more throughly again. and go from there. I reside in the Brownstown area. Have you ever been to the Holly practice track?

Yeah I tried that before I took them apart and I apparently did not clean the carbs properly because when I turned the petcock to on it did it again. Has anyone had to keep breaking the down the carb, taking the float pin out keep blowing into the fuel seat hole a couple of times to get it right or should one time do it? Bummed in Michigan 9:29pm

When I turn my fuel petcock to the on position gas starts to leak out of the carb hoses. I checked my float heights they are both at 21mm. I blew compressed air into the carb and blew out where the float needle sets in. Put it all back together and gas still spills out both carb hoses. Everything apprears to be clean. I recently had my gas tank off to so I had to disconnect the fuel line, but that should not be the problem. Need much help again a project went sideways on me again.

Yeah who make a good aftermarket Banshee Frame besides Lonestar