J-Madd

According to this-->click you'll need deck height also.

Thanks, that info will help. Also - where did you get the 0.020" base gasket figure? I know it is common to run that size with the 68x58 Cub, but the website says 0.012". CP Industries

Just to clarify, the spacer plate or cut domes is to compensate for the ADDED STROKE only and has nothing to do with the rod length. THe different pin location on the piston is what compesates for different rod lengths.

None of mine idle for shit. If they do idle when I set the the carbs up, I change it (at the carbs) so that they don't....... and sometimes I'll leave the cable adjuster on the throttle housing loose enough that I can idle it up after it gets warm, then back down if its cold.. I always had that same problem, that it'll idle to the moon when cold, then won't idle for shit when warmed up. If i mess with the air screws to try to fix the problem, then the weather (air density) changes - the idle changes too. This is on alky, though - and drag race only.

I've always had 0.030" milled off of them and get around 150 psi. BUT, there is a wide variance in the casting of the stock head, so you may get more or less psi increase with 0.030" taken off.

130? Highway or route 130? 130 inches per second? 130 degrees? I hope you're not saying 130 mph. It does sound like maybe the clutch ball and rod are welded, unfortunately.

No. Cylinder is basically untouched except to clean up casting flaws.

Well,the clutch not working wouldn't keep it from going in gear; so that may be a seperate issue. Did you take the shift forks out at any point? If so, they could have gotten mixed up. There are 2 different forks.

0.01'' in the hole is +0.01'' deck, right? Deck is taller than piston at tdc? What should the 68x58 Cub cylinder measure in height? I can measure mine and see if it is out of spec at all. The problem is that my crank is pretty much trashed and the motor is apart. In addition, I have had bad luck trying to check the deckheight. I can't eyeball the piston crown and see if it's close. I thought a motor was zero deck and then my engine builder/friend measured and said it was about 0.020" out of the hole!!?? I know there are other variables, such as discrepancies in pistons, cranks, rods, cases, etc. I don't know what the tolerance limits are on all of those.

I have a brand new motion pro cable that is also too long. You have to shim it with washers at the clamp on the case. If you measure how far the cable sticks out of the housing, I bet it is significantly longer than oem.

Right. Just unplug it. Save the money for other mods. Just my $0.02.

Thanks loco.

Alright, I found it. PUt "6305-2zn" in that search field and THAT is my bearing. It's not as cheap as I thought; so I'm thinking this will be fine.

Ok try this link. Other is no good. After clicking search for "6305" and it is one of the sheilded bearings that come up. 63052zjem, I think. Click edit: Well hell, none of those have a snap ring grove, but that is the bearing without the groove I think.

Well, back to the bearing: Why are people spending 90 bucks on a max load bearing if this will work? It's about $15. As far as the sheild on one side -> it had one on both sides, I didn't know one had already been removed. We took the other one off as well. There is a string of characters "358d" on the bearing. It also has a UPC 7316573316600, but google didn't find anything. It's made in Argentina. edit: It also has "6305-2zn" on it. I found this My link This is not my bearing but even if it is equivalent - it's cheap.

I also think that's the same or similar to what Jeff sells. Good price. I'm thinking Jeff charges a little more than that for his now. THey used to be $75 though.

Unplug the tors. Make sure the key/kill switch connections are good. YOu're right - no real way to test a CDI except trial and error.

Locked up a 421 Cub (68mm x 58mm, 115mm rod) and having it ported but I need to know if it is zero deck with the recommended 0.012'' base gasket and Blaster pistons. It looked close while it was together, but now it's apart and I was just wanting to get the facts. Edit: Just noticed in the title there is a typo in the base gasket size. Should be 0.012". If a mod wants to fix that for me that would be great. If not don't worry about it.

There are a few shift mods that can make it shift easier (modified shift star, etc.); but Banshees just shift like complete crap compared to many other ATVs.

I'd say that's about right (for 300 ft); he was asking for quarter mile times, I think.

That plug looks like it has several runs on it or has been purged on. I can't read that at all. What are you seeing Dave? If that was a new plug and was that black I would call that lean; but since it is hopefully not a new plug, I don't know what to make of it.

Well, I don't really know what numbers/letters indicate the rating. I've googled a few of them and come up with websites that sell bearings, but no mention of OEM use or rating. On another note, due to having ruined this bearing, we had to take the top end apart to remove it. (Top end was already on - we just had this motor apart to change the transmission.) What we found was a cracked piston on skirt between the windows. This was a Vitos piston for short rod 4 mil crank. It had very little wear on the intake or the exhaust side, but VItos says this piston is moly coated. I'm not familiar with that coating, so I don't know if it reduced wear, or there was too much clearance which would reduce wear, but cause piston slap and lead to skirt failure. Ring end clearance was 0.016", which isn't too bad on a motor that has been ran a while, I don't think. I have another 4 mil that grenaded the center bearing. Does anyone repair these? Is it remotely cost efficient to do this? Titan racing put a new rod on a crank for a friend of mine for cheap, but I was just checking if anyone else repairs these (besides twister or crankworks - not interested in it being gone for 6 months.)

Thanks Brandon. I knew you would have an answer. I'll check the numbers out and if its rated for the RPMS I'm gonna run it.

Thanks for the opinion. I kinda have mixed feelings about using it. It's identical except for what I mentioned, but I don't know if it was intended to turn 10,000+ rpms.

Another pic from my phone.