J-Madd

The only way the carb is remotely involved in this issue is if the jetting is borderline way lean or rich and the fuel requirement of one side is way different than the other...not impossible in a solid (good compression, no air leak or water leak) engine...but unlikely.

Only on one side!! Something is up if the same jetting won't work on both cylinders.

Air leak, water leak, low compression...all could cause that on one side. Since it's a single carb, the jetting is not causing this to happen only on one side.

Someone jack his account?

On a stockish motor and stock carbs a K&N pro flow and no lid is as good as pods IMO.

Yep it's always difficult in this situation to tell if the cut oring caused the damage or was a RESULT of the damage. Anytime I've had a blown oring the top of piston and dome was trashed.

40 - 70

Are those different lengths or diameter?

Stick with OEM. The cases aren't a weak link for what you're building.

Billet cases are for big drag motors only. What are you building?

Push the throttle and look at the slides. Make sure they raise and lower at the same time. Adjust the cable on top of one carb to move the slide up or down in the throttle range.

I didn't say it was realistic! At best some kind of threaded screw through the PV and into the cylinder that can be turned in and out.

Take the filter off. And look into the carb.

Carbs are out of sync.

Lots of talk about using stinger ID to retain or get rid of heat. Not much about what that heat does. Of course it can be power robbing or damaging, but it also makes the pipe act shorter, which makes the tuned length a higher rpm preference than a colder, "longer acting" pipe. Maybe Gary will come back in here and explain more. He's probably tested lots and lots of different pipe sizes and recorded the temp as well. Which is why his IF Snipers allegedly make the best power on some motors. And there's almost no market for OOFs compared to IF..and just stamping the IF dimensions into an OOF won't necessarily yield the same results, even though in theory they should.

I meant all or nothing. Set it for 192 (or whatever Serval exhaust timing is) while you're in the trails then set it to 196 (Cub timing) when you wanna run fast straights. I didn't mean adjust on the fly.

Hell. Just have a PV locked at 192 duration. Then a manual lever to put it at 196. No need to guess what it needs in the middle. We know the same pipes and carbs will work with both of those. Serval when you want it, then a Cub when you want it. No in between.

Twin Cougars are slow. If someone knows of a fast one please correct me. I don't remember if the Ricans big twin is a Cougar, but when you spray 200 a hole anything can make 1 pass!

You can tear into it and replace the clutch pretty easily. Getting a Clymers manual will be worth your while as well. If you want someone to walk you through changing the clutch, someone may chime in. Probably need to know your baseline mechanical skills and knowledge of these machines. Welcome to BHQ[emoji106]

X2

I had 2 16 mil Cheetahs (at least 1 was PV) and, a 14 Mil. 2 of them were sold in MO, I forget where the other went. The 14 Mil was a Dan Hull motor and was the most impressive. None of them compare to what Super Cubs are doing now though. I think I dynoed one of the 16s with the power valves installed normally and with them locked all the way up and not a lot of difference if I recall. To me, that says something was set up wrong (as you imply with your statement about getting the bugs worked out.)

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/65674-how-to-remove-your-tors-thread/

Good to know Claude. I'm 300' ASL also. And it's a low port (serval).

Does anyone run 23 cc on pump gas? That's what I'm going to try.

There are a few fixes for the floats, as you know. But yea, they ain't the most Precision made parts fo sho. I've had 40 mm come with a longer slide than 44 mm. Never did figure that one out.