J-Madd

Leaktrons!! Good call! I bashed them forever for their shoddy craftsmanship but I finally gave in and like them now.

I can't speak for everyone but I've had a hell of a time getting floats set just right on Lectrons with a pump. Of course there's a bandaid for that unless running asphalt. I prefer gravity any time it's feasible. Pumper PWKs are easier, but I don't run them any more.

Leaky head gasket? Look for water droplets on that spark plug. Drain water and see if it will start (don't run it like that) Or pressure test the cooling system, or remove head and take a look. Could also be air leak around crank seal or other area.

Take all of the tension out of the cable and try it. Search for clutch adjustment and there should be some good info, or maybe someone can walk you through it. The clutch lever on the engine case should line up with the arrow on the case with no tension on the cable ..when you push on that lever with your hand.

You're gonna have to remove the clutch cover and take a look. Does the cable have tension?

Check choke tube

Not at all. Modify gears and drum to make shifting easier.

The only Sniper I recall seeing was one from Puerto Rico at Gilbert. I don't know about Denny's.

However you decide to ship, be sure to pack that top end GOOD. And if you ship UPS assume an anvil will fall on it after it falls out of a plane from 6 miles high.

24 mil

I wouldn't like the N down, but I'm sure he can cut it stock location. I'll keep that in mind of I don't find one.

I don't think I even have a core to send. This is gonna be a cobbled together build for sure.

WTB Pro Mod Transmission or similar for a Serval Trail bike.

Nah. Oh and the power valves are blocked off....that was the whole reason for mentioning it. I would sell it though. It makes very good power and torque. It needs some pipes though. Those are Jaws pipes in the pic.

It might fit. But it's pretty tall.

Won't fit in frame.

I have some Twister Sniper power valve cylinders 840 cc give or take. [emoji16]

IF that is the same as mine, I have the cover that shows what dipswitches do what. I set my initial timing at 30 degrees btdc with a degree wheel, then pulled timing that made it about the same as the OEM map as a starting point. Mine was programmed by Mark Herek when I got it. On my big twin, I think 30 degrees was too far down in the hole for the dial indicator to touch the piston (IIRC), which is why I used the degree wheel...or maybe I double checked my measurement with the wheel. I don't recall.

No one that I know of. Most that run the MSD on big twins or triples run the other style. I don't see the benefit of that vs a correctly programmed and functioning dyna unless the crank is out of phase. 19v lithium battery is what everyone runs.

I have a setup similar and I think it was $2500 new. Or maybe it was $1500, I don't remember.. But it ain't cheap.

Probably need pretty aggressive port work to use those carbs.

Sorry bud. I thought you were OP! I don't know why I thought that LOL

My stator is good. I have had that issue you describe with a bad stator though.

Sounds like a bad stator. I know people (rightly) say that jetting is way rich, but I run 25/350s in mine with T5s, KN, no lid, +5 timing and it revs clean throughout. Just feels safer like that because I may ride WFO in 6th for several seconds without letting out.

It's not a 4 mil. And not a mismatched build. I'm going to take another look and can post up some pics (in a day or 2) if you want.