J-Madd

You must have ran 88 mph to get that time.

What size motor? Sounds like gravity with big bowls would be fine. I know guys that run 8th with stock bowls, but load is gonna be different in sand. That's an only down side to running rich. It drains the bowls quicker.

Good chassis, alcohol, good tune (very forgiving for that motor), correct tires, and it wil run 3.8s or better at lots of tracks. PM me if you want. Got a 3rd string 421 that runs 3.7s cause the other 2 were apart. Not close to Menz's but then again no one is.

If it would run 4.2 in 300 ft I'd be amazed.

Lots of misinformation here. There is no downside to Runiing alky other than mpg and having to purge. You run more oil through the motor, and it runs cooler. If anything it is better for your top end. It's hard to fuck up really. I melted ONE top end due to a fuel pump issue. I have probably a 1000 passes on it.

Congrats on those times. You'd run 3.4s with a good chassis and jockey on the tracks I've ran at. I'd Never give up 60 ft times, though. Green? Anybody?

There was a best 300 ft slip of 3.90 @ 80 mph, with a 1.31 60 ft (If I made that out right). Any pass with a 1.31 60ft at 80 mph should be a 3.7 if not 3.6. The slip doesn't make sense to me, unless it was a waaayy crooked, jacked up pass.. At first I thought it was a beam jump, but the reaction time was not way off. If I have a 1.45 or better 60 ft, and hit 80 mph I'm gonna run a 3.90 or better (on Cub.)

That's odd for a 10 Mil Cub to kick back like that. Was the fuel on? I had mine break some teeth on the idler gear when it kicked back pretty good, but the fuel was off. Make sure the gear on the basket is ok. I've had them break the cover and basket gear at the same time (on bigger motors.)

What hp on motor?

Even if you are serious, you don't want to go from a 421 cc to a (legit)1000 cc motor. If you just want to beat your buddy (not sure what a 537 cc or whatever is) you could get by with a 10 mil Cub or 4 - 10 mil DM.

That's how I prefer it. Especially when you have 3 motors apart in boxes at the same time; and only have enough parts to put 2 of em back together.

It's not needed. It may be a coincidence that all my bikes are wired that way, or that I got that idea from Jason Menz who is one of the smartest drag racers in the sport. I know that they have grounds factory but unless you're running pvl (which sucks) you don't have to have them. If you do want to make a solid ground from the motor, just run a wire from the motor to th frame (as I have done on pvl equipped motors).

Ahh maybe not overkill on that motor. On a tad bigger motor, I just run a plain non-oring rk?chain though. Now on the Scimitar I run a 530 chain with a picture of a NHRA pro stock bike on the box. Whatever chain you choose, retighten it after 1 pass if drag racing. They stretch that quick. Good to go for a while after that.

Don't worry about it. The black wire that runs out of your stator plug IS the ground.

Overkill.

Unless your running an 8+ plate clutch, any adjuster should work. Do you have a pic? There are some longer adjusters if needed.

No ground is necessary in the ignition as long as all black wires are connected. Not sure about lighting. No sense in grinding pc off to mount the coil. I have zip-tied coils to the frame with no issues.

You got any pics of some lightened billet cases? I know I've got a couple of sets that could lose some material, just don't know how much. And mine weigh a lot more than stockers, but they are spreadbore, maybe that's the discrepancy in the 12 lb figure.

If you've got a motor apart, why not go ahead and put new forks in it? Are you running an override?

I have a set of mint Vito's Fat Bastard Pipes. They look a lot like Shearers.

I figure 300 ft gearing on smaller motors to be at or slightly above peak hp rpm in 5th @ 80 mph at the end of the run; and tweak it from there; depending on rider weight and track conditions. You'll need the exact r/o of your tires, an estimated peak rpm and a gearing calculator. If you don't have a dyno sheet for the peak, you can put some low gearing on it so that it will be wound tight; then get the trap mph and figure what rpm it was. I'd use 72 mph - 75 mph for your motor. JMO.

Probably not a significant change in CC of combustion chamber. I've seen it done for dyno tuning to see if more exhaust duration is better on a particular motor. In your case, you could do that, and if you like the power delivery you can then port it, or run it until it needs replating and then port it.