J-Madd

Didn't know that was common. I've never used assembly lube (or even poured oil) on the transmission. It's in oil before you start it up, and covered in oil by the time you put a load on it. NOT saying assembly lube/pre oiling isn't ok, as I think the manual recommends it. I have heard that on a freshly put together motor, that you should pull in the clutch (with motor running) and go through all the gears to lube the pinion gears before hauling ass on it. But I rarely do that.

You'll have to use an impact. You can (at your own risk) place a wrench or ratchet extension through both rods while using the impact if needed. I wouldn't do that without an impact.

Precision Powersports in MO makes their own starters and nuts. Half the price of pingle. That's what I use. www.precisionpowersports.com

It's gone.

The Wampus would be a cool motor. Looks like bone stock cylinders. If you do want to go with the Twister, you better start today trying to get it built. It takes forever to get stuff from Louie. I'm waiting on gaskets for my 16 mil Twister (669 cc) right now. I also have a 24 mil Twister (844cc Sniper). Only a handful of those out there i think.

I say go for it then. Good luck with the build.

You can buy a complete bike turn key with almost any motor you want on it for $6000.

What particularly went wrong with the other motors?

What's wrong with the Wiseco Basket? Also, I don't have straight cut gears on any of my 3 421s. Nothing wrong with them, just that it would be the last thing to do after you'd maxed out the potential the motor. I'd actually put that money toward a ridgid chassis, or at least drag a-arms. You're gonna need more tire as well.

Put it together and check exhaust port and transfer durations and squish clearance. Measure the volume, squish band and angle on the domes. Put up what you find and someone (not necessarily me) could tell you if its runnable as is.

If you can see drops of water on the plugs, the head is leaking water (both in and out by your description). Check tq of head nuts. If ok, then replace the dome orings/head gasket.

He's a sarcastic asshole a lot, but he knows more than 99.999% of the people on the site. And he has posted meaningful info.

You don't need that support for 100 hp motor. I don't think any trail bike would need it. By the time you applied enough torque to the ground to actually stress the countershaft you would have already flipped over. JMO.

You usually have to roll the transmission (sprocket) to get the gears to mesh. As long as it goes in all the gears it should be fine. Was there an unusual amount of metal in the oil when you drained it?

PWKs (imo) are bad about floats sticking, even worse when you cut 1 float out. I have ran them like that, but wouldn't do it again. That being said, I run PWKs and Lectrons. I like them both. Always turn the fuel off when its not running. If the floats stick and the cylinders fill with alky you will bend a rod when you try to kick it.

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I doubt you have TORS, but yeah that can do it. Sounds like the pickup coil gap to me, or possibly loose flywheel.

I tried pvl for a while and went back to stock on all but one. Such a headache troubleshooting 4 coils when something goes bad. Anyway, no need for frame ground. Run a ground wire from the motor to the coils, and ground the coils black wire there as well. NOt sure if that will fix your problem, but will eliminate possibility of bad ground.

The only old design Shearers are the hand coned ones. RDZ pipes are not hand coned. All the stamped small bore Shearers are the same.

Man for $6500 you can buy about any (used) motor you want. 10 mil DM would be a decent motor. I wouldn't go smaller than a 10 mil Cub.

Choke tube missing x 2.

I don't know about inframes, but RDZ and Shearer OOFs are NOT the same pipe. They have different power characteristics as well.

I now this post is kinda old, but you'll need a bigger dump and main on a 350 than on a bigger stroked motor.

I did, and I replaced the carb. I'm sure you can fix yours, but I had plenty of stock carbs laying around. I have a extra stock carb If you need one.

You can probably unbolt the airbox, then try to get the boots on, then zip tie the airbox back in place. Also, on the boss intakes, be sure to yamabond the the intake boot to the intake. They were (are?) notorious for leaking right out of the box.