J-Madd

Stock pilots are fine with those pipes. Turn the air screw in if you think its lean on bottom. Actually that main sounds lean to run without a lid. You may need to put the lid back on (no snorkel) and see if it gets better.

The electrode was moving? Or was the whole plug (porcelain and all) moving inside the metal base? If something was moving, it may have been caused by a lean condition, not necessarily a defective plug. Keep an eye on the plug on that side.

In the low 6s.

At the least you can put your finger over the spark plug hole and kick it to see if both sides have some compression. Just the fact that it had to be pull started sound like a compression issue. If its real cold natured and hasn't been started in forever (and theirs no mechanical/electrical failure) you can spray some carb cleaner on the filter and give it a kick and it'll fire right up.

I have a 421 Cub you need to buy for the drag bike. Has ran 4.0s in stock chassis and 3.8s in drag chassis in 300 ft. I have another that has run 3.7s but I'm keeping that one.

If the case studs are in the factory location, and the cases have not been bored, you should be able to bolt up Cub Cylinders no problem. I'm gonna guess the cases have been bored for the 76 mm bore though. Maybe someone else can confirm.

Klotz flexdrive, Bel-Ray Gearsaver, Valvoline/Yamalube/Quaker State/Pennzoil, etc 30w.

Sorry I mentioned the OOFs. I figured it was relevant since the pipe "should" be the same as IFs. For a duner I doubt you'd notice a difference (good or bad) with pipes, imo. For a drag racer, you have to build the motor around the particular pipe.

Is it leaking into the cylinder, or out of the top of the head? Where exactly is the leak? If its getting into the cylinder, you can resurface it by running it over fine sand paper laid over a piece of marble or glass. If its leaking around the studs, just put some yamabond on the studs.

I'd say 2 sets of carbs, 20 cc domes, and a dyna ignition and you'd be good to go. Set up a curve for gas and alky (as mentioned.)

Thats correct. Also the Snipers kept the motor cooler than Shearers. The power came on a little more violently and it spun more as well. As Jim mentioned about the acceleration earlier. I dont run the motor that they were tried on much anymore. I also have dyno runs back to back that show the accelleration difference but i dont want to post and cause a dyno critique thread. They are good pipes, but we really need to know the optimim exhaust port duration. Shearers like 194 to 196 Tballpark figure) CPIs like anything higher than that. 194* was the duration on the motor I ran. It may be that they are all around decent for any duration, but surely they have an optimum range. Dont forget that dome design goes habd in hand with the pipes. Jim sent me some domes that were better suited for those pipes, but ive got too much going on at the track to start over withe the tune.

I have a set of the nickel plated outframes I'll sell. PM if interested.

Type F is all I run. I don't know if it breaks down, but I believe it's less effective at suspending (remnant clutch fiber) particles than regular motor oil. That's just my theory as to why it has to be changed more often.

Closing plug gap = deto

Install pvl on ebay or in trash and run OEM. Not just my opinion, but that of many.

I've ran them with a leak worse than that bad before. Of course it's best to find the leak, but in some cases it's difficult to find or it will leak around the intake bolts when the (UPP) intakes wear out.

Regardless of builder, double check port timings, squish, and compression vs what they tell you it should be. I got a motor back from a big name builder (not on this site) and the squish was 0.032". NOt to mention had to many leaks in the epoxy in the cases that it would have been completely unrunnable.

As cheap as crank bearings are, I'd just replace both with new max load bearings.

Hell I've gone 6 months without starting my stocker. It took a little carb cleaner sprayed in the filter to get it going. I let it sit for a year once, and I had to clean the carbs to get it to run.

The holder isn't necessary. YOu don't have to use a tq wrench manually, just use the impact and tighten the heck out of it.

Those pistons are a little heavy because the older ones had problems with the skirt cracking.

41.3 mm Lectrons would be great on that motor. I also agree that the tunability is waaaayyy easier with the Lectrons, especially if you put some wingnuts on the carb tops. I used to be a Lectron hater.

I have 2 sets of chrome RDZ pipes out left side. One set has had a stinger welded back on; the other set is brand new, but has been installed on a bike for purpose of running heat cycles. Never been down the track. $300 for used set, $500 for "new" set. Pm if interested.

I have a set off of 2006 I bought new and have about 5 miles on them. $25 + shipping. PM me if interested. Don't have hangers, and may have stolen some of the clamps off of it as well.

I have some like new chrome Vitos Fat Bastards (Look a lot like Shearers)