J-Madd

ARP head studs? Probably don't add any value at all. ARP nuts to hold the randomly casted cylinders would be a plus. Stock nuts work about half the time. ARP nuts are a must on the rest.

AVG is ok. Norton sucks but their specific virus removal tools work. I use McAfee, but my wife leaves 1500 browsers open and clicks on anything that says you can get a coupon or discount. I have to do a disk scan or restore periodically on the laptops I can save. And remove a bunch of shit programs she didn't know she installed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-YFZ450-450R-250R-RAPTOR-DRAG-DUNE-SPINDLE-MOUNT-WHEELS-POWDER-COATED-/380682325118 Thought that was a decent deal.

I almost always check it, but I've never had to file any rings. It's supposed to be a percentage of the bore.

If it was setup to not run a basegasket, and you put one in there, it's gonna mess the port timing and squish clearance up.

I have some on my stocker. Ok I guess, but I don't have anything else to compare them to. I had to buy a-arms because I had to cut the stock one to get a bolt out.

Razor IIs wear very quick, especially on pavement and gravel.

Aside from your assumed clutch/kicker gear problem, the 0.124" mains won't flow any more than your 0.120" dumps. It's not hurting anything, but just know that it might as well have 0.120" mains in it.

I've got a 10 mil that likes 16/43 and one that likes 15/43 with the same tires and chassis. What's the mph at the end?

Still have my complete 421 Cub. 2-5 override, Vito's lockup, VF3s, billet intakes. $2500.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^*^*^^

You can have a high compression ratio and still low psi. I didn't notice if he mentioned the psi?? I'm sure K&T will get it right.

Make sure the spring is sprung (rotate it clockwise before install) and it and the plastic piece and the metal piece that stops against the case are in the correct location. If you're trying this with the cover off it won't work. The cover holds the plastic piece in to keep the gear frim coming out too far. Sorry for my vagues description of parts. Haven't looked at that in a while.

Flange size and out the right so I could use remote starter. My set is about to fall apart.

Yes.

That's pretty rich on the needle. Maybe try moving the clip up a few notches.

Turn the power jets off. Or make sure they're not for alky. As mentioned.

Nice car. Wish they were hand coned big flange out the right. Glws.

But OP has a stock port motor.

Or Snipers out each side. Nickel plated.

Stick with the stock carbs. No reason to run anything bigger on your motor. That's what he means.

I could bring a chassis. 24 out front 10 out the back.

Come on to Leerjak. Can't be that much further from there.

Sorry, I sold the RDZs, the motor can come with BB CPI out each side.

Minimal port work, if any. Intakes included. Can throw in alky 38 mm airstrykers and chrome RDZs out the left side for $500 more.