Yes. And clean up the dome as well. Sometimes I run the head and domes over a flat surface(marble,etc) on fine grit oiled sandpaper to resurface if there's a problem, but it may not be necessary. Do a leak down test with rad cap off and you should be good.
Water leak will cause deto. Fix the water leak and you should be fine. A leak down test can sometimes find a dome oring leak, but you need to make sure the radiator cap is off.
On motor, PPS triple went 3.25 with like a 1.19 60' if I remember. K&T went 3.24 I think. Don't know that 60'. PPS triple is in Puerto Rico now. New build in progress I think. Those are both spread bores though. That was a Gilbert 2 different years.
The aftermarket pancake bearing would not normally do that. Are you sure the clutch adjuster isn't stock? I've had a ceramic ball break and cause worse problems.
^^^^Yep.
That being said, I have some flat top pistons that used to have a crown that I'm currently running in a Twister Sniper motor. Precision Powersports cut the pistons and designed the domes.
The piston speed is a lot higher with the 10 mil. With low port timing and this less RPMs it would last longer, IMO. Good to know you can run wot. I locked up 2 cubs like that, which I've mentioned before.
At 100% volumetric efficiency at 10,000 rpms I come up with 37 cfm per cylinder, I don't know if the motor is more or less the 100% VE though. I also just used google to find these calculations, and I don't pretend to know this.
If you mean ignition timing, it won't change. If you mean port timing, it has to be changed to accommodate the piston going 2 mm further up, and 2 mm further down.
NYUK is cool. And a good mod, I was just venting, I guess. These people whom I've never heard of and are doing this. They're probably not crooked ass crooks, but it's not that hard to post pics.