J-Madd

The carbs may be too big, and not enough velocity?? Just a guess, but those seem big for a mild build that's trying to be street able (not WOT drag racing).

You'll probably have to just try a known working stator. They can test good and still be bad. Check out the electrical FAQ that's on here somewhere.

Sounds like bad stator to me as well.

Anybody that missed this can buy a 421 Cub complete motor for $2000 from me. Will throw in carbs and pipes for $350 more.

Hmmmm Shawn liked Mikunis last I spoke to him. He had some dyno comparisons on his 10 Mil where the Miks made lots more power. Nothing wrong with any of the carbs though. All will get the job done. I prefer Lectrons. I used to be anti Lectrons all the way.

I have some 4 mils waaaaay back in the 4 same section.

Takes just a few minutes to drill out. Some drill some other orifices but it's not necessary. You'll need to get bigger pilots and different needles also. And learn to tune alky. May need a pump and/or bigger bowls depending on the application.

Or he could've said "it'll be done in 2 weeks" and then kept it for 6 months.

75 - 85 mph

I would think it would fit.

You can use a method like the OP described. I've seen it done. That being said I just eyeball it.

Or not at all. ... That being said. We run radiators. Too much hassle to keep the bikes lined out as it is.

What do the plugs look like? Sounds like running bowls dry to me.

Needs to run 20s. Will run 40s or 30s on motor.

yes

Piston Travel vs. Crank Rotation d = ((S/2) + L) - (S/2 cos X) - L sin[cos-1 (S/2L sin X)] S = Stroke (mm) L = Connecting Rod Length (mm) X = Crank Angle Before or After TDC (deg) I think 30 degrees BTDC is pretty common. If someone wants to solve that equation for d, then convert from mm to inches that should give the answer. X = 30. I've honestly forgotten how to use some of those functions on a calcutor.

Hard to compare PVL to oem timing. Very little retard in the PVL.

Hmmm. My strap and/or porcelain would be gone if mine looked like that after 2 passes. Any metal flaking on the plugs? Erosion of the strap? Never seen plugs like that after 2 passes.

I don't oil the filters on the drag bikes.

From my guestimation add about 0.8 to a 300 ft time and that should be worse case. Thats how long it takes you to go that last 100 ft if you ran about 84 mph at both 300 ft and 400 ft. Which of course you'll accelerate more.

Thats not a bad time at all. Especially depending on the how hard the track hooks.

I just threw whatever springs and weights i had laying around the shop on my 16 Mil. I agree get some baseline passes, and get the gearing figured out first. I like to gear a motor like that to about 87 - 89 mph at the traps at peak hp rpm, or in the overrev a tad. With those tires, you may have to gear it lower though. I have some tires like that that I never could get to work.

Draggin Plastic. Madd Draggin Racing is our race team name.

24 Mil Twister Sniper motor. All the goodies. >860 cc. $8000.

I have small block 10 Mil and 16 Mil. PPS ported and setup the domes in both. I'm not sure what information about a setup you want. I can't give specific port and dome specs.