J-Madd

- You'll probably need to get your crank trued and welded. - 35 mm pwks - Not sure about making the stock head work with the big bore - +4 or 6 swinger - Heavy duty clutch springs - Very noticeable power increase over stock cylinders (unless you got a badass drag port) - CPI or Shearer pipes It adds up quick!!

The reason I even purchased the sledge hammer I have today is that damn swingarm bolt. ::

There is a brass washer that main goes through before it screws into the dump tube. When the main is tight, it pulls the dump tube tight as welll, so it can't move up and down like your describing.........where's your washer?

Yeah..we've already got it scheduled. The conflict with Brick's being open that day was brought to my attention afterwards. Be glad to see there, but no hard feelings if ya go to Brick's instead :thumbsup:

Make sure the air screws are set the same on both carbs and also check the compression of both cylinders....go ahead and unplug the TORS and parking brake, too.

You can also drill another hole in the fender to relocate the bracket about 1/2'' toward the bike, thus moving the fender outward. Worked for me.

It went ok. I could've used your help with the track, though..it needed something, just not sure what. It looked good, but I couldn't hook at all...and I don't even have that +8 swinger yet. The 450s ran good, though.

Yeah....Brick's is pretty fun. Reminder: Races tommorrow, Saturday the 22nd at Kennett to anyone interested.

If it's a yellow DS it's him. I'll have to check and see if they've posted some new pics there.

There is only supposed to be 1 of each of those clips..are you looking for 2 clips to be in place or do you not have any at all? I read on PS that it is a good idea, though, to go ahead and put 2 clips on each bearing if you get the chance. www.bikebandit.com should have them.

Got some chrome T5s or chrome SSTs, $250 each + shipping. The chrome is in pretty good condition, not new, no dents.

Yeah, just read it today. :beer:

Off my original subject a little, but on those domes..........they guy that melted the strap has 17 cc domes (240+ psi) on his 4 mil stock cyl alky motor. We think that compression is a little too high for drag racing, even with alky...watcha think? Squish is 0.040'', timing at + 5, I think.

I just had a friend melt/disintegrate a spark plug strap due to the powerjet vibrating tight, then detonating enough to loosen the plug/suck air. Both the head and dome were perfect. I thought that was odd.

Yeah, I know. He kinda "owed" me some porting (long story), so I sent them out. The porting looks pretty good, however, and it runs very strong. And...I think the pitting could just be rough casting that the friction from the pipes has exposed.

HA HA :yes: + 8 swinger ordered today. I won't likely have it for either of the Kennett races, though. Other than that, I don't expect any significant mods, but who knows........

Well, I got the cylinders back today and the left exhaust flange (the outside of the port that the pipe slides over) is pitted slightly. Don't know WTF that means.

Head and pistons both fine. + 9 degrees timing (increased from +5 that I ran for a year), 160 psi, 108 octane. After I increased the timing I rode it and checked the plugs, then never looked back. I agree, detonation would jack up the pistons and domes, so I don't know what he saw in the exaust ports.

I was told by a guy who ported some Cubs of mine that I had signs of detonation in the exhaust ports. Before I tore it down, it had never "sounded" like it was detonating, the spark plugs looked fine, and it was running rich. The only thing I can think of is that the flywheel had a habit of trying to shear the key while kick starting it, and it would backfire while kicking, not while the engine was running. ...I'd loosen up the flywheel and re-tighten it and it would be fine. This only happened a couple times and I replaced the flywheel. It had probably a tank of gas or so ran through it since it last "detonated" while kick starting.....so what signs of detonation was he talking about??

I'm pretty sure Piggott will have kids' classes.....Kennett will for sure.

Compression was 160 psi (top end is apart right now), not sure about squish on this motor; Jeff put it together himself and I'm sure he checked it. Timing is at +9.

BTW, the crank doesn't set in gear oil. It only gets oil from the premix.

For Sale: 2005 blue YFZ that I purchased new and have title. It has WR crank, ported, and 13:1 piston, blue Alba nerf bars. Everything else is basically stock. It comes with 1 (maybe 2) extra heads and a set of hot cams and an extra set of stock cams, and a box of miscellaneous bottom end engine parts. The reason I am selling this is because there MAY be a circlip in the bottom of the engine and I'm fed up with wrenching on these damn 4-strokes. I sent it to a shop to have completely new gaskets and seals installed to fix an oil leak and rebuild it and after 10 or so hours of riding time it started knocking. When I took it apart I found the wrist pin rubbing the cylinder wall. I ran a magnet through the bottom the best I could and didn't find any evidence of the circlip which leads me to believe that maybe it wasn't even installed.........and it still leaks oil. I could sell this to an unknowing person and it may tear apart on him down the road, but I will no do that. I am listing all of the problems with the motor so a person can decide if they are willing to tear it apart and fix the oil leaks and double check for the circlip.

Motor is stock stroke 68mm Cub, Shearer inframes or outframes or CPI inframes, whichever I decide to run on it. I'll be using EGN needles.

OH YEAH!!!! . Now the front end won't stay down, even when its not hooking. With every gear it just raises up more. I'm not sure I can keep it under control with my +6 arm.....I may go to + 8 before the Kennett races.