J-Madd

Slight head gasket leak? Just enough water gets in the cylinder while it sits to make it difficult to start, but not bad enough to keep it from running once it gets cleaned out and warmed up. I've seen that, but if that is the case I would't keep running it. I've heard that sucking in water will lean it out and damage head/piston/cylinder, etc. It didn't happen on the motor I'm referring to, though. What do your plugs look like after it sits and won't start?. Water will bead up on the plug if its present. Pretty easy to see if its there.

I'd leave the fatty's on a stock unported motor.

It stays fairly stable in my (completely, constantly wrecked and unorganized) shop. I keep the temp between 45 and 60 in the winter, and whatever in the the summer. No a/c. Just noticed the drum in my sig pic is on a dolly...but the last drum I emptied was on the concrete.

Hell yeah check the tube first. I thought I read that you'd already ruled that out.

Sure you can. I know someone who runs 4.0s all day long on a stock chassis 397 Cub with a 6 speed that he built himself. He doesn't sell them, though. He runs crazy gearing. Something like 13/47.

Please explain storing the drum off of the ground. Is that only for plastic? I have a metal drum that has been on concrete for over a year and I still run it. Not milky, no indication of water. Am I losing hp by doing this?

Check your compression. A weak engine will not rev out all the way. Other than that, your probably on the right track with the stator.

If it stops when you pull the clutch in it's probably normal clutch chatter. Nothing to worry about.

I always check compression before I fire it up and again after it's broken in. I haven't noticed much difference in the readings actually, but I never checked it warm.

Put it back to stock and see if that fixes it. Also, make sure the throttle cable isn't in a bind. If the slides hang up, it is difficult or impossible to start. Does is backfire or anything when trying to start it? In my experience it will usually backfire (but not start) if the timing is off. I had a flywheel go bad, and it wouldn't stay in time. I think the keyway was "wollered" (sp?) out.

Low 4s is pretty difficult with your setup (after porting). Mid 4s would be a reasonable goal to shoot for. Hope you have an override, struts and wheelie bar. Edit: and some different pipes. (CPI, Shearer, etc.)

I ran some autolite plugs once. I couldn't read them for shit because they are a different color than NGK's and I couldn't tell where the heat marks were. This was on alky, though. They may work fine on gas. Most people only run NGK's but I'm sure any cross referenced plug would work; but probably aren't any cheaper than NGKs.

Unless one of them have the bottle, or lots of motor work, I wouldn't worry about those 4-pokes.

Every time I take the clutch cover off that clip is off on my 421. Steel bushing didn't help. It's even happened on different transmissions.

HOld throttle open. Kick until the needle quits moving.

Not building the DM now??

Unless you are trying to get every last bit of hp out of the motor, you can always start with them open, then start closing them by 1/2 a turn or so until the engine runs clean. Make sure the cylinders aren't getting too hot. This is a very safe way to tune, but of course reading the plugs will get you closer to max potential hp.

It is not fully assembled. Swingarm, steering stem, a-arms are chrome. Cylinders are polished. All you would need to run this is a chain, spindle mount wheels, axle and carrier (which I have new in box, but won't take a loss on them) Motor is 16 mil Twister, 72 mm bore, I think. Comes with hand coned pipes out left side, 43.5 ? mm Mikunis. Has 1-5 n down dunable override, pvl. Motor: 6000.00 Chassis $5500.00 Prices are firm.

This is for sale by me now, just to clarify. I should have some seat time on it in a couple of weeks, weather permitting. Nothing but rain this weekend.

Is it chromoly? What does it weigh?

You can have severe damage and the engine will sometimes still run, but not well. I've rode mine from the track back to the pits 3 times with a burned plug strap. Started first kick. Probably an air leak, as mentioned. Take off the head and look for piston and dome damage; and possibly cylinder damage. Unfortunately, that's what you're likely to find.

No. That's why I'm selling it. Hell, I need to sell something. My 14 mil runs too good to let that one go. This bike is much nicer and the chassis is a 100 times better than my other. If I ride this 16 mil, I may not want to sell it!!

Yeah, I bet that's right. I forget not everyone races 300 ft dirt :cool:

No offense, but it's almost impossible for any mod (besides nitrous) to knock 3 to 5 tenths off of an already decently setup and tuned bike. Unless your talking about vs. a stock, uncut tranny, then I agree 100%. Good to know there are some 6 speeds being built. I've only seen one run first hand, and he made it down the track pretty good!!

:biggrin: