J-Madd

:thumbsup: Thats badass!!!

I just put a Boss intake on and pressure tested it only to find that there is no gasket between the boot and the intake. I sealed it with yamabond and now it tests fine. How does everyone else seal those? Sorry to hijack.

I just started running it (instead of high dollar Klotz Flex-Drive). I'd guess that the advantages are price and lower viscosity resulting in decreased drag on the transmission, but I could be wrong.

Thanks. I clicked "delete all cookies set by this board" but didn't delete cookies in internet explorer. That fixed the problem.

It shows a summary of posts for each thread, rather than the entire post. Not sure how I changed it, it's ok on my other cpus.

Well with that weight, you'll probably need a little lower gearing than what's been recommended.

I actually run 15/41 on stock Banshee (t5s, timing,k&n,150 psi). It revs all the way out in 6th pretty quick, but it has always been a freak engine to be unported. YOu may need more timing, or adjust your jetting. You should wind out 6th quick with stock gearing.

At least 15/42, if not higher with those 12 pdls. That's not a lot of tire. HOw much do you weight?

www.pentonimports.com I think.

Definitely should be a difference. There should be some places where the groove is cut different and some places where it has been welded to change the shape.

ttt

How far are you racing? Stock gearing (14/41) works pretty good, not sure I'd go lower. Always launch in second gear.

Don't know why you'd need that with an override, though; unless using the manual 5th and 6th. Those gears are hard to hit sometimes after shifting 1-4 overridden.

What kind of ignition is this? Has 2 stators and a flywheel similar to a PVL, except that it is NOT a PVL and only has 1 coil. I need some specs on it to resistance test it for a friend.

As long as it doesn't leak I guess it would not overheat. Be sure to check the squish. How did you damage the top of the cylinders?!!! Never heard of that, nor running a gasket + o=rings.

I'm used to a Banshee, or YFZ high revving engine when I ride it, so I'll try short shifting and see how if feels. Thanks.

I don't think I have any on the front on any of my motors.

I thought my problem with the Craptor was in the programming, but when I installed the new map it really didn't help much. What a 700cc turd

My Raptor (Barker Duals, K&N pro flow, PCIII) won't even get close to my stock Banshee with only T5s, +5 timing, 145 psi. Didn't really run from a dead stop, just noticed that the Banshee pulls away from the Raptor in every gear. I wasn't riding either, I was in my Prowler, but both riders said the Banshee was faster. WTF is wrong with the Raptor! I installed a map (from raptorforum.com) for the Barker Duals and pro-flow K&N. I have yet to unplug the speed limiter (or whatever its called) that retards timing at high speeds (5th gear), because I can't find/get to the plug. Raptor gearing is stock. Banshee is 15/41.

Good question. I have 5 overrides and don't have a clue if any are undercut, and if so, what the difference is. :shrug:

Why the cast pistons? I'm gonna say deto as well.

May be the best builder in the country as far as Banshee drag racing engines are concerned. My A&S Cheetah screams.

You can call Shearer direct, or I'm sure Jeff at F.A.S.T. has them. There were some RDZ sb/sf same side chrome for sale on Planet Sand cheap. Not sure if they're still there or not. Those are bout the the same as Shearer's.

Throw it away. Also..it won't work without the washer....then needle jet/dump tube will move up out of the bowl.

S.O.B I just bought all of this brand new a couple weeks ago, except mine was the shorter axle.