Machwon

Detonation is what caused your problems. The likely culprit was the crank. It got twisted out of true and caused the havoc. I would suggest having your used crankshaft trued and welded.

I do banshee work in Michigan for very reasonable prices. e-mail me at [email protected] if interested.

I'd suggest, twin carbs, porting, twin carbs and head mods or a cool head. Easily done for less than suggested.

How far has your head been milled? Has it been reworked lately for the .100 over cylinders? You could have some detonation going on.

I've run many sets like that. They work fine.

I don't think anyone makes a gasket kit with the sealer on both sides. Run it!

I have a pair of .020 over w/stock ports, used bore but still ok. $275 shipped. Or I can port them too if interested (for an additional charge).

IMO, the other issue with those sleeves is in order to get greater than 75-80% of the bore width on the exhaust, you will have to weld the water jacket.

I doubt your going to get the exhaust width you need to make up for that bridge that obstructs flow. Unless your cylinders are ported, or you have a 10 mill? A used set .020 over is less than the cost of the sleeves plus labor. Why install a sleeve?

You can get a squeeze bulb from a hospital/home medical supply store (blood pressure bulb). They run in price range from $15-20 usually for a bulb. Otherwise you'll spend $25-30 to buy those parts and visit 3 different stores. I typically charge $40 for a 250r kit, $50 for banshee, all brand new parts.

My picture is too large to load. e-mail me at [email protected] and I'll send you a picture of a kit I build. Or here is a link to my website: http://groups.msn.com/RBRacingTwoStrokePor...hnicalinfo.msnw

Unless the coolant level drops more than an inch in the radiator its not overheating. Make sure it has water mixed with the coolant. If the water goes below 1 inch in the radiator and it boils over after riding in the parking lot. Is this the first ride for your shee? Or have you run it before?

I got a pair of stock bore, stock ports, for $275 shipped, if interested. Stock pistons included too if you like.

I just need a good gear, broken clutch baskets are fine with me. PM or e-mail me at [email protected] with a shipped price to 48866. Thanks, Bob

If you port first, then plate, the plating wraps around the port chamfers and in to the transfer tunnels, etc. If you port after the plating process, the port chamfers are no longer plated and the nikasil becomes exposed on a sharp edge. The sharp edge allows for an area where a piston ring can start to chip away at the nikasil. Again, I've never had an issue either, but have heard of certain Kawi's having this issue, especially when the nikasil is a tad thin on certain sides of the bore (exhaust side w/larger ports promotes shorter plating life). Hope this helps.

Looking for the crankshaft gear and clutch basket gear for a banshee. e-mail me at [email protected]. Thanks, Bob.

I just got a bare 7 mill cub last week and the porting is very close to where I would like it. I'm suprised if people charge more than 3-400 as there's not much to do. 196 exhaust would be getting too much on some of the smaller cub motors, IMO. As for porting, I would have it done before the plating. I have done porting on pre-plated cylinders (snowmobiles) with diamond tipped cutters with sucess, but everyone always worries about the flaking. I wouldn't guarantee porting on a pre-plated cylinder either.

stock bore and virgin ports $325 shipped.

I have a set of stock bore, virgin port cylinders for $325 shipped. e-mail me at [email protected] if interested.

I like to case match with the cylinders bolted on the top crankcase half with the gaskets in between. Just my preference but does make it a little easier to trim the gaskets down.

I usually cut the carb springs so that there is only one extra coil of spring when the slide is in the idle position and remove the spring from the thumb throttle. Works fine from there.

What a piece of responses. When raising your transfers be sure to keep them level and even/same height. I'm not sure what you mean by finger ports but there is little room to add those if you're thinking around the ring end land area. Evening up the bottom of the sleeves is not a bad idea but it does weaken the cylinder around the intake side where the most piston stress is. PM me with your e-mail addy and I'll get you some pics next week.

I tried to attach my plug but my computer is screwed right now (Windows 98 issues). Time for a new one. I'll post my plug later if interests, but is has a dull finish (no gloss or shine), brown porcelan in the middle, slowing turning from brown to flat black along the electrode hook.

I'm pretty hard on my clutches at the line, but at that HP level I've had good luck with the Toomeys. They are hard to pull at first but eventually they ease up. I think what makes their kit good though is just their springs. As soon as I switched to alky and 4mill I needed a lock-up. Never used the FZR? plates but I've heard good about them, many using them without lockers even on bigger than a 4-mill. I think this also tends to be those who are using override trannies as well though.

Yea, plugs are hard to read from pictures and preferably done at WOT. Otherwise I would call that plug as running rich as it hais a wet glossy black look and no apparent brown or dull finish colors.