Machwon

Check around for a DRR, taiwan made. They maybe a little more pricey, but they are pretty cool quads for the little ones. I had an Eton 40 viper jr. and my 3.5 yr old girls knees hit the handle bars. She's still riding here DRR 50 going on 7 and I can even ride it. They are very fast out of the crate and also are plenty wide (no need to buy axles or a-arms). It makes them stable and safe They also can be upgraded to a 90 with a crank and cylinder kit.

$240 - 34 pj's and with foot pegs

I have a pair of 34's all set for a Banshee. New pilots, mains, needles, e-clips and slides have been modded to a #6 for better throttle response. $225 shipped. Let me know if interested. Bob.

I have a set of 34 pj's I'll ship to you for $225. They are all set up for a banshee and have new mains, pilots, needles and e-clips. The slides have also been modified/converted to the #6 slide for better throttle response too. e-mail me at [email protected] if interested.

taper bored for $45 is a deal, usually its 35 to just straight bore them. even 27.3mm is out there pretty far, it gives you very few thou to seal on each side.

The porting looks pretty good, although its impossible to tell by pictures what you really have. Most ported std. stroke cylinders can be made into 4mm's. For the 7mm's I prefer to use an unported set, so it does look like it has a bit too much transfer work for a 7mm set.

I have a friend with an 89 he wants $2500 BO. It has FMF gold series, power core silencers, v-force, cool head on race fuel, RB Dune ported, case ported, trued and welded crank, hinson basket. It also has nice newer wheels and tires, at least red, maybe black label rims. It was pretty much a duner with paddles too! Let me know if interested.

Here's some experiences I've had as a DIY who started almost 17 years ago. At first It was very crude with the porting tools and it was tough not to rush it, My power improvements were great in the mids but falled way short on top. My experience grew greatly by purchasing a cylinder from a big name Co, spending money on the software and eventually seeing many different cylinders ported by big name companies. Understanding trigonometry and math will be a very important to getting good results. Operating a porting tool does become the "art" of the job, Starting out you tend to make things more uneven than what you started with and you easily lose control of the tool in the corners. Computer programs are awesome but can be misleading on the power numbers. However, it is an undispensable tool for evaluating different combinations of stroke, rod and power spread combinations. You will likely make mistakes at first as I wished I had some of the first cylinders back. I've ruined cylinders but only by hitting the water jackets on some extreme builds. Usually worst case port jobs sent to me now will look hacked up, but still usually can make a decent drag port cylinder. The devil eventually comes in the details as anyone can dimensionally match other porting, but this still won't run as good. Pictures do very little for ones exerience. Viewing a good ported cylinder, evaluating it mathmatically and taking good notes is what you need. It has been a great overall experience porting cylinders and I still love to do it. I do well over 100 cylinders each year now. I won't rush any cylinder out that I do, but my skill at porting has improved so greatly that I have probably cut my time in 1/2 to do a decent pair of cylinders. As I aged I will have to say that I can't port for more than 2 hours at a time as my hands now will get numb. Fortunately I still have my 20/20 eye sight.

Swaie, the PJ's will work fine, but like any carb it must be jetted close to have a favorable result. If you run the set up I listed above it will likely be within 2 jet sizes depending on your elevation, and you probably won't change a thing. You will want to do a plug reading when jetting any carb. I personally run the pj's on my drag port 364cc banshee and get well into the 80's on HP. Nothing to be ashamed of except they look old school.

Each carb will have a pull knob for the choke. You can turn the top of the pull knob to adjust the idle. Just look on the left side of the big end of the carb, there will be a drilled hole. Make sure the opening is the same on each carb, then adjust each carb equally from there. All this can be done with out the need of fancy tools.

I have a set off an 89 with +2 j-arms. $525 shipped.

You may have two different slides or your carbs are not synchronized. Pull the slides out and there should be a number on the bottom. Likely either a 4K or 6K. They should be the same and like I mentioned above the jetting numbers listed here will work well with a number 6 slide. Otherwise your carbs are out of synch and you will need to make sure the tops are on tight, then use the adjuster on the carb caps to make sure both carbs hit wide open at the same time. Stick your finger in the carbs to make sure the hit the tops at the same time. Back out the idle screws all the way and turn them in until slight resistance is felt, then turn them in with equal turns to set the idle.

C series needles and a number 6 slide will get you close with the numbers above. I commonly use a CGM needles, middle notch, #6 slides, 55 pilots and 155 mains.

dajogejr is right on, get the cylinders re-ported for the 4mm stroker crank. It does depend on the porting already done, but if it has any kind of decent drag port, a spacer plate will create way too much transfer and exhaust duration in my opinion. Converting a set of stock stroke ported cylinders to a 4mm ported set can definitely be done so that it will run good.

I'm looking for a good rear brake hub for a Banshee shipped to 48848? I also could use some stock cylinder head studs or I can trade you for a longer set for the pro-design cool heads. let me know what you have, Thanks.

How much for the axle and axle carrier shipped to 48848? Thanks, Bob.

Porting and a stock head mod will take care of the Raptor.

I pm'd ya. Bob.

I have a slotted stock plate I will ship you for $30. Let me know if interested. Bob.

Use a turkey baster with one foot of vinyl hose attached to it. Then invite everyone over for turkey dinner (just kidding!).

I have a used pro-design with 21 cc domes, studs and a new oring kit for $150 shipped. e-mail me at [email protected] if you want to see a picture.

I got a used one w/21cc domes, studs, and a new o-ring kit for $150 shipped. PM or e-mail me if interested.

I got a used one with 21cc domes, studs, and a new o-ring kit for $150 shipped.

150 psi would not be uncommon with that set up. You should be running race fuel though. Here where I run 34 pj's on a similar set up. 155 mains CGM middle notch, C series needles will be the better choices. 55 pilots 60 slides.

Karzy150, I do reasonably priced motor work/porting and can probably keep it close to your budget. Let me know if I can help you out. I sent you a pm.