23champ

Dynojet mains are just mikuni mains. I dont know how you got 340's to work with the dynojet needles tho. The kit comes with 260's and 280's (I think). I used to run 340 mains with the stock needles and needle in the richest postion. Still couldnt get it rich enough on the needle. It cut out and hesitated before it would come up on the pipe. I bought the dynojet kit, installed the needle clip all the way down (richest spot) and put the 280 mains in, and it ran awsome everywhere.

start it up with it up, put it in gear hold clutch in and try to push it. If it rolls fine its your clutches sticking together...mine does the same thing. Nothing to worry about.

Yeah, if I were you I'd look into wesw's cylinders. It seems like wes takes good care of his shit to, so I'm sure the cylinders are in good shape! I was gonna get the X3 myself, but decided to go a diff direction at the last minute due to a tight time frame I was in. No nutts for me either.....

You will aso have to buy diff. domes. 68mm will require bigbore domes, and they will have to be custom cut for the proper squish angle.

I thought so..I saw him at LS with it. He's got a sweet bike. Is the track at LS going every weekend during the summer?

sounds like hella deal bro. I would think someone would jump on this bike. Its hard to find a bike this clean anymore.

I think this was mentioned earlier in the thread......

Ive never had any problems with mine freezing

nice bike, good luck sellin it! Oh.... you got wrinkles in your seat cover

You runnin a 350, or you got a stroker? KSbanshee is runnin a buddy deville frame now isnt he?

Bet thats a cheap setup!!

prolly...you should just get it welded, then all your worries are over.

F.A.S.T.1...your bike is badass. What times you runnin on it? Do you ride at LS only?

Most guys run Vforce reeds. But some say that the best performance comes from oem cages that are ported...Who knows? On a stock motor I wouldnt expect too big of a diff.

No dealer can sell the cylinders them selves for less than $875. But the price breaks start coming when buying the whole top end kit. As far as bore size...there are two options. a 65mm bore, and a 68mm bore With the 65mm you can still use banshee pistons, with the 68mm you have to go to blaster pistons, and change the squish angle on your domes ( for best performance). On a bolt on stock stroke application, my guess would be around 80hp with stock carbs, and (for example) toomey T5 pipes. Oh, the cubs also have better cooling capabilities also.

I think the width jeff is refering to is the friction area on the plate..More surface area = more grip. Not the thickness of the plate. It did sound kinda confusing tho.

I'd go with an 8 paddle if I were you...21x12x8 8paddle skat trak hauler.

I see you live in Louisiana. You might want to give Buddy Deville from SSR a call. He is one of the biggest names in the buisness right now (nationwide). He can hook you up with some sweet shit. Southern Style Racing

i bolted my silencers directly to the grab bar mts. No problems here

Sounds pretty expensive.. Why not go with some cubs? stock carbs, toomey pipes, and a set of untouched cubs will put you in the 80+hp range, and all you can do from there is make it run better and better.

I agree, a pro circut pipe is the best all around pipe, it has much more top end than the FMF. The FMF is more of a low to mid pipe, the CR500 is monster down low already. Throw a PC on it

4mm cub will get you around 90-95hp pretty easy

cubs are the answer to your prayers

Wheels

Stock carbs are junk, upgrade as soon as possible.